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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Ok so about 6 months ago I found some tiny pin-hole leaks in one of my heater core hoses that was leaking radiator fluid daily.

I did a quick fix on it and it held up just fine for months and months, and even through a few long distance road trips of about 6 hours or more of solid drive time, not to mention all the driving I do when Im in my home city.

Now, it seems the hose itself has finally burst and looks cracked and brittle and the temporary fix just wont cut it anymore. For the past couple days Ive noticed a little leaking radiator fluid and the X has been sluggish to start from time to time. Then today im on a commute home and my temp gauge spiked to HOT all the sudden, and smoke began to billow from the hood compartment. I barely got it home and popped to the hood to find that heater core hose spraying radiator fluid all over the place and so much smoke you would think the engine was on fire. (just the fluid evaporating off the hot engine parts)

I need to know where I can get this top heater core hose and how hard/easy it will be to install myself. It looks fairly simple and I know that I need to be careful to not break the "nipple" coming out from the heater core itself that is inside the dash. Do I need to buy both heater core hoses or can I just get the one I need. And can I get it at a place like Auto Zone or do I have to go thru the manufacturer or dealership? (the X was purchased used and is no longer under warranty. this issue probably wouldnt be covered anyway.)

Please, if anyone can direct me to where I can get this hose, at a decent price and relatively FAST, i would appreciate it immensely. My X is parked until i can get a permanent fix. Its now 106 degrees in Texas and its not holding coolant when it's running since it pumps through those hoses. When its parked and off, the radiator holds the coolant just fine so there shouldnt be any damage and/or leaks in the actual radiator.

Here are a few images:


heater core hoses are in the far left of the engine compartment.


its basically only that top hose that leaks very badly. the other hose doesnt leak at all from what ive inspected.


PLEASE HELP! Where can I get heater core hose(s) and how can I do the new install myself???

Many thanks in advance.
 

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Should be able to get a hose from Autozone. Since heaters are superfluous down here, for the time being you can get some hose couplers to bypass the heater core. I'd probably use the couplers for the fix as well.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Great. i was hoping i could get one from autozone. it seems like a pretty standard hose. i just cant see it, to look at what size or type it is.

how would i bypass the heater core? where would i loop that top hose thats coming from the engine? even if my heater is off, radiator fluid is pumped through. like today its 106 and thats the hose that busted. and if i bypass the heater core, can i just not use the heater or both the heater and a/c?
 

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This summer was brutal on my cooling system. New rad, thermostat, fan clutch, and all new hoses. I got mine from Advance, seems like it was $20.
 

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how would i bypass the heater core? where would i loop that top hose thats coming from the engine? even if my heater is off, radiator fluid is pumped through. like today its 106 and thats the hose that busted. and if i bypass the heater core, can i just not use the heater or both the heater and a/c?
You just connect the two hoses going from the engine together, taking the heater out of the loop. With it bypassed you can still use the A/C, as that is a separate system from the heater, but you'll be able to drive the truck again.
 

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If you are going to have to buy parts to bi-pass the heater core why not just replace the bad upper hose?

Granted the nipples may break while removing the hose but if not just replace the failed hose.


Edit to add: Why not cut the upper heater hose that is leaking, removing the bad section, and install a coupler just like the bi-pass method replacing the damaged section. You could then avoid having to remove the hoses from the fragile heater core nipples entirely.
 

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Racer is right be very care full with the nipples ,cut the hose with knife and don't put any pressure on the nipples or they will break off ,they are made of plastic and now are very bridle with age.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
job is done. called autozone for the top heater core hose. went and got it. put it on.

the old hose had a huge hole in it on the lower section closest to where it attached to the engine so i had to replace the whole hose. $19.95 for the hose and only took me about 30 minutes to swap them out.

i carefully cut off the old hose from the bottom engine attachment first then cut the hose away from the HC Line and cut the rest away in pieces so i didnt crack nor break the HC nipple. sliced the hose away with a razor blade without having to 'pull' on anything.

drove it for a bit in the metroplex and its good as new.

i'll take that $5 buddy. many thank to those who provided the helpful information.

 

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bottom hose doesnt have any damage. looks to be in good shape.
I'm having the same problem I got new heater core tubes but my question is when I take the glove box out in order to replace the hc tube I have to take out part of the ac is there anything I need to do other than remove the screws?
 

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Since I'll never need a heater her in PR I bypasses mine. I picked up a U shaped hose meant for another vehicle that was the right diameter. Basically I went in with my old hose, explained what I needed and they took me back to look through the rack of hoses. I then trimmed the ends of the new hose to the lengths I needed and popped it on with clamps. It' pretty easy. I did it when I had the intake manifold off, and I'm sure that made things much easier. DO NOT just cap off the outlets and call it a day. For proper flow of coolant through the engine you need to have a hose connecting the two.

For the record, I also prefer to re-use the OEM spring clamps on my coolant lines. Especially the ones in hard to reach places. The spring clamps are designed to provide constant tension as the hose and fitting expand and contract with the heat cycle. This prevents the rubber from the hose from getting compressed. Using worm screw clamps will eventually result in a leak at the fitting, which also often results in corrosion of the nipple part of the fitting. This is because you clamp it at a set pressure, but when the fitting and the hose expand with heat the rubber gets compressed because the clamp can't expand with it. Over many cycles of this the rubber is permanently compressed and the clamp starts to fit loosely and a leak results. There is also a strong tendency to over tighten the work clamps.
 
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