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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I've was diving my car just fine with no issue and coming out the office one day it just wouldn't start. I get strong electrical response and strong crank but it won't turn over. No check engine light either.

I get the error codes 0328, 0328P and 0456P. I've read many threads about the Knock sensor and know that's major surgery. I also read that it's rarely the KS that's bad. I read threads about 0328 but they refer to engine performance and don't say much about a non-start.

I've checked my distributor and cleaned my mass air flow sensor (grasping at straws here) but it still won't start.

Can somebody please help!
 

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something super random happened to me in my 240sx back in the 90's. I drove over some rail road tracks and the car just died. and wouldn't start.


ended up being one of the main fuses in the engine compartment. nothing else was wrong with the car. Took me a while to troubleshoot, because you don't even think to check those fuses.

probably unlikely in your case, but it takes a minute to check.
 

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Also, check your connections at the battery, the factory battery terminals are crap

Darin
01 Xterra SE 4x4
COMING SOON:
Intake mod, timing belt, hoses, belts
Wish list:
PML, EFan conversion, shocks, 32" tires, and eventually UCA'S
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Will check those. Thanks. I assume all fuses are in the fuse panel in the inside drivers side cabin. Nothing under the hood?

Battery terminals should be ok since the crank power and internal electricals are strong right?
 

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That is what I thought on my 94 pathy, but there was one connection st the positive that was bad causing it not to start...I haven't looked completely in detail at mine, but I remember when I saw it, I chuckled and said I will definitely be putting better ends on this one too...just to be safe. Ya know?

Darin
01 Xterra SE 4x4
COMING SOON:
Intake mod, timing belt, hoses, belts
Wish list:
PML, EFan conversion, shocks, 32" tires, and eventually UCA'S
 

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i had the same issue with my xterra the other day. Strong crank but no start. it also spelled like gas every time i would stop cranking it. I opened up the distributor cap and rotor and cleaned it. with my bare nails. started right up and worked fine after that. the truck only did that to me 2 more times sand cleaning the cap worked. i say clean the cap and see what happens. I think this happens because of humidity inside the cap and inside the cylinders so no spark is happening. don't take my word for it but im just trying to help.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Nope to all of the above. Cleaned the distributor cap and rotor with a little sandpaper, same with the battery terminals. No luck.

Maybe I'm not getting fuel? Would a sensor keep a car from starting?
 

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Idle air valve maybe...or throttle position sensor...crank sensor, and a couple others might I believe

Darin
01 Xterra SE 4x4
COMING SOON:
Intake mod, timing belt, hoses, belts
Wish list:
PML, EFan conversion, shocks, 32" tires, and eventually UCA'S
 

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Disconnect the fuel feed line to the fuel rail put it in a jug to catch the gas. Turn on the ignition and see if fuel prices. If it does you're getting fuel. The car position sensor is located inside the distributor. The distributors are known to go bad due to siezing of the bearings due to no lube. See if you have a friend that will swap out the dizzy to test.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-N920A using Tapatalk
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Thanks, will try them all (Idle air valve, throttle position sensor, crank sensor). Does anyone have any threads and/or pictures so I can know exactly where each item is?

I'm not really a mechanic, I just stay at Holiday Inn Express a lot.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Would a bad evap canister or evap canister purge value keep the car from starting? Would a bad knock sensor keep it from starting?
 

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Would a bad evap canister or evap canister purge value keep the car from starting? Would a bad knock sensor keep it from starting?
I don't think so..the knock sensor doesn't kill the ignition, and the evap canister and purge valve being bad should only make it run rough and possibly rich...idk, I could be wrong, go through the troubleshooting for the evap canister in the FSM

Darin
01 Xterra SE 4x4
COMING SOON:
Intake mod, timing belt, hoses, belts
Wish list:
PML, EFan conversion, shocks, 32" tires, and eventually UCA'S
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Thanks XterraD4u. At least that's good news that I won't have to pull the manifold for the knock sensor. I think I'm going to use this time as my excuse to replace a number of small items while I pull my hair out for the non-start issue. I'll do PCV, plugs, plug wires, dist cap and rotor, evap purge valve, fuel filter, gas cap...

Its throwing a 0456 error which is an evap code. Troubleshooting the evap canister is a visual inspection right?

I also should ensure the engine is getting fuel. Anyone know where the fuel feed line is located under the hood?

Sorry but I'm grasping at straws here.
 

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Knock sensors when bad typically just result in loss of power, I'd start where you are, test your MAF to ensure it is the problem (I know you cleaned it but it can go bad too), pull off one for your spark plug wires and make sure you have proper spark also...if not, you probably have a bad dizzy...if you do have spark and you have fuel, it is a compression issue/timing issue

Oh and here is a link to troubleshoot that code.
http://goo.gl/4hccV

Darin
01 Xterra SE 4x4
COMING SOON:
Intake mod, timing belt, hoses, belts
Wish list:
PML, EFan conversion, shocks, 32" tires, and eventually UCA'S
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Ok so I FINALLY got around to changing the plugs. Started with #1 (no problem of course) poked out my chest and went straight to #6 . Using a small mirror I was able to get #6 changed in about 20 minutes so now I'm stoked!

Now moving on to #4 ... pulled the boot and there's oily gunk all over it! I'm going to assume this is my issue (if it's not it need to be fixed anyway). So I pull the upper plenum to see what's wrong. It APPEARS I have a valve cover gasket leak. I sure hope thats all it is.

I'm going to change the gasket and do a lot of cleaning. I might pull the fuel rail to clean the injectors and clean the lower intake gasket as well.

I'll keep everybody posted...
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Ok, took the engine apart cleaned out both the upper and lower manifolds, replaced spark plugs, plug wires, hoses, clamps, sanded the dist cap leads, cleaned all the plug wells, replaced lots of gaskets, relocated the knock sensor and cleaned, cleaned, cleaned. It was hella dirty under there.

STILL NO START! I'm getting p0340 now. Camshaft position sensor.

I even swapped out my distributor with a new one (it does spin on attempted startup), didn't start and I took the the dist back to the store. Could I have bought a bad distributor? Is the X funny about its distributors? My starter is only two years old and its not winter so I'm thinking its not that.

What could it be?!?
 

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Did you install distributor with the crank at TDC? The crank turns two revolutions per spark at Cylinder 1, it's possible your ignition timing is 180* off. I got stumped on this for a while.

Stick a screwdriver in your #1 spark plug hole and watch it go up and down as you turn the crank - you'll see what I mean.
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
The car originally didn't start BEFORE I pulled the distributor but no, I don't believe it at TDC. Maybe it wasn't at TDC from the beginning.

So, let me make sure I understand... pull #1 plug and stand a spark plug in the hole and manually crank the engine until the screwdriver is all the way down, and the rotor then should be pointing at the #1 spot? Is that correct?

Sorry but how do I manually turn the engine? Do I have to take the belt covers off and do it from there?
 

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Pull plug #1 (closest to front), move the plug out of the way, put a long screw-driver down into hole. Turn the engine by hand watching the screwdriver. At Top Dead Center, the screwdriver should be at it's highest point (when piston is at highest point in cylinder). This is TDC. At TDC your distributor's rotor should be pointed at the cylinder #1 contact point (with 15* base advance of course). The marker on your crank will point at 0* at both TDC and BDC on cylinder 1. This is what can be confusing as it can be 180* off but still look correct at the crank pulley.

Hope this helps.
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
I DOES help. Helps immensely.

What's the easiest way to turn the engine by hand? Must I go into the belts area (removing covers and belts and such) and turn a Cam from there? Or can I safely turn the rotor?
 
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