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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
I installed the cheapo DNA Motoring headers on my 01. On the facebook Xterra groups I constantly see people asking questions about them so instead of rewriting replies I wanted to post this to go over the general issues you might find yourself in when installing the headers. This will not be a well constructed tutorial or anything of the sorts. Most of this will be me rambling.

First off the passenger side header, the holes did not line up with the studs, I had to slightly drill out two holes to make it fit.

You will need 3 or 4 new studs for each side, the middle stock ones are to long and wont accommodate the headers. I attempted to use some autozone studs but they were to low quality. I ended up dropping $50 at nissan and getting the stock shorter studs with their respective nuts. These have E-torx on the head of the stud so you can tighten them up completely, unlike the autozone ones that would require gouging the end using pliers to tighten the stud. The stud nissan part number is 14004A, the nut nissan part number is 14004BB.

You will NEED o2 spacers/eliminators(whatever you would like to call them), installed on the bank 2/secondary o2 sensors. If you do not you will get a CEL that is. I bought the 90 degree ones.

Get some metal manifold gaskets instead of the thick ones that come with the header. This is just a recommendation as I have had issues on other vehicles with these thick non metal gaskets leaking. The little flange gaskets I used as I did not believe they would cause any issues, and they did not.

If you have EGR then you are in luck, just hook it up to the header and you are good to go, if not then you will need a block off bolt. Mine came with the headers I bought, however some others did not get so lucky so message them when you go to order them and request you be sent one. I installed some high temp locktight on mine as I do not have EGR.

Many have confirmed these fit N/A and SC models.

When removing the O2 sensor I found the bung on the cat came out with the o2 sensor. I went over to a work bench and found the appropriate size socket and broke it loose from the o2 sensor. This required a lot of struggling, you might find it easier to order new o2 sensors.

You will need to either get a 90 degree o2 simulator on the passenger side header or unbolt the tranny dipstick and zip tie it out of the way. This is because the angle of the bung on the header is faced right into the tranny dipstick, so you wont be able to screw the o2 sensor in. I went with the 90 degree o2 simulator.

I have a 2" body lift and this made the procedure 10x easier, I couldn't imagine doing it at stock height, I actually didn't even remove my wheels as I have 2" spacers and the wheel is very offset so I had a bunch of room to work but you will likely need to remove the wheels.

My original passenger side manifold was cracked all the way through. This isn't a tip, but likely the cause of most peoples exhaust ticks.

I had to remove my front drive shaft to get to all the flange nuts on the driver side, others have said they did not have to. However I did.

The heat shield bolts will break during disassembly. Carry on.

Liberally apply your favorite penetrating oil as a broken exhaust stud ain't nothing to mess with.

Once installed I noticed a HUGE sound increase, everywhere I go people ask if it has a V8. I also have a cold air intake and a flowmaster 40 with 2.5" pipe out, so results may vary. I kept my secondary cats, if you removed them I would assume this would affect the sound dramatically.

I also ended up selling the old cats for $30 to a recycler.

I found to give you the most room go ahead and remove the secondary cats completely while installing the headers.

The headers really opened up my X, I do believe however this is mostly due to the fact my old primary cats were clogged up, however I'm sure the increase in flow helps some. Before this I could not go faster than 60mph on 33s, now I can pass people going 80+.

I will add random pictures of the process shortly and any thing else I think of, I will update the post.

Link to the o2 spacers - http://www.ebay.com/itm/122006737728
Link to the headers from DNAMOTORING(this is their actual ebay name in case this link ever dies) themselves - http://www.ebay.com/itm/162168512650
 

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Discussion Starter #2 (Edited)
bung after removing off o2 sensor


cracked passenger original manifold


egr bolt


removed driveshaft showing access to flange nuts


comparison between old manifolds and new headers(i dont smoke, and if i did it wouldn't be pallmalls)


driver side comparison


passenger side installed from above


passenger side installed from side, this is before i installed o2 sensor


driver side installed from above


driver side installed from side(before i installed the spacers on secondary o2 sensor)


metal gaskets i used


cat with the missing bung i took with when removing the o2 sensor
 

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Good to know about the egr bung. I asked them if they made a bungless version and they said no. Didn't mention anything about a bolt.
 

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I installed these on my 01 front SC. I also had to file the holes out slightly, just a few millimeters. I used the felpro gaskets for mine, pt# 96300 I believe with no leaks. Definitely breathes better with zero cats and only one dynomax ultraflo muffler but very loud also. Planning to put them on the X but I will need to use a much quieter muffler. I run mine on the front with the 98 to 00 b pipes and the 90 degree O2 spacers.
 

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I didn't have to extend the wires, it's a tight fit and they just don't fit on the slip holder on the valve cover anymore.
 

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Mine won't seem to reach. I might be able to force main connector harness to accommodate it but I don't think I could use any of the valve cover connector mounts if I did. Oh well, not a huge deal to extend the wires.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
OP here, I made the wires longer. which results in random o2 sensor codes, just ended up unmounting the connector from the valve cover. anyone having issues with the pics still? i never got an email anyone ever even replied to this thread. i just send this thread to the facebook pages when people ask about the dna headers. glad to see the forum alive.
 

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Pictures are visible now. Did you guys use the 3-hole gaskets that came with the headers or OEM ring style crush gaskets for the header to downpipe flange connections?
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Pictures are visible now. Did you guys use the 3-hole gaskets that came with the headers or OEM ring style crush gaskets for the header to downpipe flange connections?
sweet. i used what came with the headers. havent had an issue, with them being so small i didnt think i would have any issues with them leaking. however ive used that kind before on headers on other vehicles and they always leaked. so have always used metal gaskets for the actual header to block. like i said in the original post.
 

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I recently installed these headers as well. I was planning to do a write-up but never got around to it. A word of warning to those intending to connect their EGR. The welded bung does not line up correctly and you will either need to bend your EGR tube or make a new one. Do not make the mistake I did and temporarily use the provided bolt to block the EGR bung. Even with anti-seize, the bolt has completely seized. I could not break it free with a 5-foot breaker bar. It has welded itself to the Header bung, and I am stuck with a check engine light for eternity. I don't know what kind of metal that bolt is made of, but consider it permanent if you use it.

Do not use the provided gaskets. You have to drill out the holes in order to make them fit, which damages them in the process.

As the original poster has said. The headers make a nice growl in the exhaust, even with everything else stock. Torque has improved substantially, but as Jacob suggested, I think my old cats were clogged.

Since this post is exactly the same subject, I would be happy to post the write-up here, but don't want to hijack the thread. Let me know!
 

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I just finished the header install. I also did my valve cover gaskets, so I can't say for certain how long the headers took. Couple pointers for anyone else doing this:

1) Remove the front drive shaft (4WD models). I was stubborn and decided not too. I went to war with the drivers side secondary cat and O2 sensor, as they were seized in place. If I had removed the driveshaft those battles would have been much easier.

2) I used an OEM crush gasket on the passenger side header to downpipe flange connection, but the driver side I had to use the flat gasket that came with the headers. They appear to have neglected to bevel out the inner flange connection on the drivers side, so the crush gasket compressed flat and left about a 2mm gap....Had to drop it back down to figure that out.

3) I had to extend the wiring about 7" for the passenger O2 sensor in the header. Others didn't have too but I could get it to reach and wanted to utilize the stock valve cover connector mounts. All the others reached just fine.

4) I used a straight CEL eliminator on the secondary drivers side and an angled one for the passenger side. I found a listing on ebay for $29 that included an angled one with two separate short sections meant for different configurations. I put the two short sections together to make the straight one I needed.

5) I don't have a body lift but the manifold studs/nuts were fairly easy to get at. I did remove the steering shaft in order to help with the drivers side.

Nice not having the noise from a cracked exaust manifold anymore. I was also previously concerned that my primary cats were getting clogged. Won't have to ever worry about them again now that they're gone. I can't afford the DT or even AC headers, but the DNA/Ebay headers were $130 delivered. I couldn't have replaced the manifolds with stock ones for that cheap.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
feel free to add anything you find valuable! it's all about documentation for the next guy. body lift for sure helps!!! i also removed my front driveshaft.
 

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Great! I'll post it here since there is already a following. There are at least two other threads on the same subject, so maybe we can convince a moderator to post a sticky.
 

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I posted this in a less active thread, but I figure Ill repost it here too.

Im finishing this install up on my '03 SC with no body lift.

I replaced 2 cracked manifolds when I bought the truck and have another crack 20k miles later. Since headers are the same price and I dont live in an emissions state I figured what the hell.

As far as drilling the holes out, I just had to do the middle hole of the "top" trio on each side.

I took the exhaust up to the muffler out cause there was no way I was gonna be able to get the old o2 sensors out of my 14 winter salted exhaust with it mounted. I had to cut the pipes just past the downstream cats, but it Ill just weld a connector sleeve on and clamp them back in. If you have the body lift you may be able to get everything out without cutting.

Passenger header slides in easily thru the wheel well.

Drivers side has plenty of room to come up thru the frame where the removed exhaust was. If you dont remove the exhaust you would have to remove the steering shaft as others have said.

My passenger o2 wire was way too short. I ordered a drivers side to deal with that.

I also ordered a drivers downstream for the passenger side, 1. because I mangled the original trying to remove the exhaust without cutting and 2. in case the 90* elbow causes a length issue.
 

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Forgot to mention r.e. shorter studs.

You can get this little kit from Oreillys: https://www.oreillyauto.com/detail/dorman-help--4422/exhaust-parts-16469/exhaust-manifold-hardware-kit-16256/dorman-help-exhaust-manifold-hardware-kit/03400b/4526855?q=03400b

The studs are grade 8 and virtually identical in length other than the lack of an e-torx head.

I ended up having to go this route because Nissans part#s for these studs with all the superseded versions are messed up.

I ordered a set of 12 14064-31U1A from the Nissan parts site. Then ended up sending 10 correct length, but with 1.50 thread on the block end, and 2 with the correct 1.25 thread all the way, but that were like 10mm longer than they should be.
 
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