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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I hope this subject is made a sticky and I will explain.

Countless people have replaced components after the service engine light has come on to find the issue did not go away. This is a giant waste of time and money.

Bear with me and I will explain. I just helped a friend get one of his motorcycles running. He swore it was the starter or a relay or anything else.
I had him buy some contact cleaner, pull every wiring harness plug, clean the contacts and apply a little dielectric grease and reassemble everything.
Guess what, not only did his lighting issues go away, it cranked right up.

Years ago after I first got my Xterra, I hit every harness plug in my engine bay with a dab of dielectric grease. 16 years later, I have yet had one single code thrown or an electrical part fail.

This is about the cheapest insurance you can buy for any vehicle.
;)
 

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I'd love to do that, but I'm afraid I'm likely to create more problems attempting to get connectors apart than I'll prevent with the dielectric grease. Will a liberal soaking with wd40 with out disconnecting the connectors help at all?
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 · (Edited)
I'd love to do that, but I'm afraid I'm likely to create more problems attempting to get connectors apart than I'll prevent with the dielectric grease. Will a liberal soaking with wd40 with out disconnecting the connectors help at all?
Do it slowly, one or two connectors. Mark cleaned terminals with a white dot.
If an engine code ever appears, clean any uncleaned terminal in that circuit.
Probably a quarter of MAF sensors that get replaced are good. Plugging in that new sensor on a corroded connector actually fixed the problem.

Just clean the dirtiest. I would spray the connector lightly with contact cleaner, keep the wd solvents away.

If you ever buy a salt water boat, new or used, you will learn firsthand about corroded contacts.

Yeah, DO NOT put dielectric grease on your battery terminals. If you ever need a jump, and you still see the film of grease, connect your car first so no spark. It will light up on a jump and a spark.

Put it on your spark plugs wires first, plug and distributor contacts. The tube will pay for itself in one tank, LOL.
 

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2000 Xterra XE 4x4 3.3L AT
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I hope this subject is made a sticky and I will explain.

Countless people have replaced components after the service engine light has come on to find the issue did not go away. This is a giant waste of time and money.

Bear with me and I will explain. I just helped a friend get one of his motorcycles running. He swore it was the starter or a relay or anything else.
I had him buy some contact cleaner, pull every wiring harness plug, clean the contacts and apply a little dielectric grease and reassemble everything.
Guess what, not only did his lighting issues go away, it cranked right up.

Years ago after I first got my Xterra, I hit every harness plug in my engine bay with a dab of dielectric grease. 16 years later, I have yet had one single code thrown or an electrical part fail.

This is about the cheapest insurance you can buy for any vehicle.
;)
Precisely and this is why we try and stress to everyone that the code does not necessarily indicate a failed component but rather that the ECM has seen a signal outside of the established parameters for a specific part or lack of signal for a part. We stress that people read the Nissan factory service manual, follow the diagnostic for the fault code and trace down the real issue rather than just throw parts at the truck. Many times the component is not at fault but rather faulty wires, poor connections, or simply a bad ground.

We are very lucky that we have access to the factory service manuals as they are an invaluable tool for diagnosing issues with our trucks.
 
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