[spddm0n]

I know this is not the first of these threads on this site.

I can't figure this out...

Simple change of timing belt and components. Used a Gates belt from Napa with the timing marks (can't really screw that up can you?).

Put it all back together, wouldn't start. Engine cranks just fine...over and over and over.

Tore it all back down, figuring I must have messed up the timing marks. Found all the timing marks appear to be in the right places. T crank pulley mark lines up with the mark that the previous owner made on the oil pump housing. The "dimples" in the upper REAR timing cover match up where it was when I removed the belt the first time.

The RH cam gear (passenger) mark goes (pretty much) dead on with the dimple on the upper rear timing cover. The LH cam gear is off about 1/2 tooth still, as it was when I pulled it apart the very first time. Annoying, but I assume this is correct. It's off to the CW direction (the mark on the cam gear is CW 1/2 tooth past the upper rear timing cover dimple).

I checked for spark...pulled a plug and wire and left it out against something metal on the engine while cranking the starter. Yep, got spark.

I checked for fuel...I can hear the pump prime when I turn on the key...and I pulled the return line from the fuel rail and turned turned on the key...yep, there is fuel.

There are NO related codes being recorded by the ECU, verified with an OBDII scanner tool. There is a code for something related to the idle air control valve. This is new. Wasn't there before I pulled the timing belt out. Could be a just didn't reconnect a sensor when I tried to start it??

Only thing left I can think of is to check for compression. Maybe the belt is still off, somehow.

OR, maybe it jumps a tooth after trying to start it the first time?? Doubt it, since the cam gears and crank pulley still line up properly (though you can't check the lines on the belt anymore - they don't line up after the first time turning the crank manually to adjust tension).

Is it possible the camshaft position sensor in the distributor can go bad, WITHOUT throwing a code? What about the crankshaft position sensor?

Anything I'm missing? Any help/advice would be appreciated!!

Thanks!!!

 

[OUSooner]

If the code is for the idle control valve, fix it. What is the code? Without knowing what it is, I would suggest checking the wire, connector to the IAC.
If they look good, pull the IAC out and see if you see anything obvious.

Another thing... try starting the car with the gas 1/2 way down. If it starts, but then quits when you let off the gas, then something is wrong with the IAC area.

 

[spddm0n]

If the code is for the idle control valve, fix it. What is the code? Without knowing what it is, I would suggest checking the wire, connector to the IAC.
If they look good, pull the IAC out and see if you see anything obvious.

Another thing... try starting the car with the gas 1/2 way down. If it starts, but then quits when you let off the gas, then something is wrong with the IAC area.

I don't know the number off hand. The new OBDII scanner I have doesn't reveal the code itself. It provides the actual explanation of the code (written description). I would imagine this code wouldn't not prevent the engine from starting. It might have a high (or low, not sure which) idle, but not prevent startup. I think this sensor is triggered off of the coolant temp...of which I do not have any in the system right now. Block is still drained. I didn't re-assemble everything this time, after re-installing the belt a second time.

I can try using the throttle to start the engine though and see what happens. The truck does want to run when I spray starter fluid into the intake while cranking the engine. This might suggest that I'm having trouble getting fuel into the cylinders.

I checked the injector wiring for voltage while cranking. I just used a multimeter, so the voltage was probably averaged, but it was about 0.7V and bounced around. It goes to zero after the engine is no longer cranking.

Perhaps I'm not actually getting fuel to the cylinder. I'll retest the fuel pump (see if it will continue to pump fuel while the key is on and the line is open). I tested this really quickly, as I didn't catch the fuel and didn't want it going everywhere. Perhaps the fuel filter is actually clogged or something and it was just pumping out what was trapped in the system, during my first test.

To be continued...

 

[OUSooner]

I still can't believe the fuel pump etc.. is the problem.

Usually if I work on something and there is a problem right after I put it back together, it is because I knocked something loose, or I didn't quite connect something back tight enough.

I am suspecting something in the front of the engine, connectors, wires, etc...

 

[spddm0n]

Yeah, I checked all the connections. I'll check again.

What condition would be present if I am getting spark, but not getting the injectors to fire?

I just used a noid light and double confirmed the injectors are not firing. Could this be caused by a faulty cam position sensor or crank position sensor? Could one of these sensors fail and NOT present a code in the ECU?

 

[spddm0n]

Also, looks like the code is a P0505. Anyone know if this could be caused by the sensor triggering from no coolant in the system? I read that it generates a signal from reading the coolant temp. Otherwise, I didn't mess with this in the process.

I'm starting to wonder if I fried part of my ECU. I did arc a wrench across both battery terminals when I was installing a charged battery. Could that fry and ECU?

I also don't get a "battery" symbol in the dash when the key is in the ON position. I figured it was because my alternator is not installed, but wasn't sure. I left a few things disconnected in the process of just trying to start it after changing the timing belt, before putting it all back together and having it not start again.

I can't imagine that causing it jog to start.

Anyone know if an ECU from a 2000 SE is the same as a 2001? I could swap them to test.

 

[OUSooner]

Injectors are controlled by the camshaft sensor. But I am not sure if yours has one. As a general rule, crankshaft sensors control spark and camshaft sensors control injectors.
But that does not apply to ALL cars...

When I have time, I will try to see what signals the injectors...

 

[spddm0n]

Thanks again for the reply. I think, technically, the injectors are controlled by the ECM. There are only two wires to the injectors. Wire #1 : is direct +12V power from fuse #3 (10A) in the fuse block at the driver kick panel. Wire #2 : is a direct connect to the ECM. The ECM provides the ground signal to each director in order to fire it when appropriate.

Both the camshaft and crankshaft position sensors may contribute information to the ECM in order for it to determine when to connect the grounds and fire the injectors. This is the trouble though...I don't know how to determine that logic in order to understand WHEN it should be firing the injectors.

I think I have a bigger problem though...I checked the voltage on the wiring harness at the injector connectors (relative to ground) and I'm not getting any voltage when the key is in the ON position. According to the wiring diagram, there is no fuel injector relay in the circuit either. There is simply a direct connection to the injector from the fuse block.

I'm hoping I'm just not getting a good connection with my probes, trying to carefully stick them down into the injector connector without damaging them.

Anyone ever test for voltage on the injector connectors?

 

[spddm0n]

Ok, I've determined the problem. I don't have continuity on the black/red wire that connects all 6 injectors to the 10 amp fuse in the fuse block. In also stunned to learn there isn't a fuel injector relay somewhere. I wonder if I burned this wire up somehow? In the middle of the harness or in a junction somewhere??

Wow. Here we go searching electrical issues.

 

[spddm0n]

Solved!

Ah, so I wise man wants told me to always double check electrical connections...

Turns out, I disconnected an electrical connector sitting on top of the passenger-side valve cover. It's a direct connection to the fuse block from all of the injectors.

I was getting tired of trying to navigate all of the FSM's on my mobile phone (since these are incredibly expense to purchase, I just have the downloads) and I went and bought a Haynes manual to review the electrical diagrams. The Haynes manual does not show the detail I needed. I went back to the FSM's and found the primary wiring diagram for the fuel injection system. It indicated there were a couple connectors between the injectors and the fuse block. I found the connector that was disconnected.

I disconnected this connector in order to get to the hose clamp underneath (to remove the long air pipe above the upper timing cover) and I partially connected it again after I disconnected it - figuring I would reconnect it later. I did such a good job "partially" connecting that I couldn't see that it was disconnected.

Anyway, fired right up. Everything working...

Time consuming process, but when in doubt, use the FSM and investigate carefully.

 

[OUSooner]

Best kind of thing to solve!