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Xearth, that is some nice travel you have in your back wheels in the profile pic. Did you go with revolver shackles?
Xearth has a PML and the sway bar removed but the X in general flexes well in the back with just those two mods.

Mine with PML and sway bar removed.



Mine with revolvers. Also take a look at TJTJ's build for another truck with revolvers.

 

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You also need longer rear shocks to max out the droop.

The OEM shocks allow some droop, but, after you get even regular lift shackles, the OEM shocks become the limiting factor.

If you get Revolver Shackles, and longer shocks, you get even more droop.

My limiting factor THEN became the cross member the rear drive shaft would hit during droop...

...I had to gulley out the cross member to make room for the shaft to travel down further, to take advantage of the full wheel travel.

Once I did that, the shocks were too short again....and I had to go longer, and so forth.

You DON'T need to do all that of course, I wheeled it with Revolvers and the Bil 5100's from the 3" lift kit for years before doing the rest in steps.


This is with Revolvers, but regular Bil 5100 shocks....most of the way drooped, it would go a little more than that if fully down, etc.



This is with Revolvers and longer shocks and a gullied cross member....as you can see, the Revolver is almost, but not quite, fully open.


As you can tell....its just a matter of degree...The more travel, the more your tires stay on the ground where they can do some good.



With the front SLR UCA, I have ~ 9" of front wheel travel, the same as a stock Jeep Wrangler with its front sway bar disconnected....which is not that bad for an IFS truck.

:D
 

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I'm to lazy to read the thread cause it's late, but heres my pml'd X flexing :D
 

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Discussion Starter #26
I've made some headway in the decision-making department. I have two options in mind now.

Option 1: Fix my failing lower ball joints, keep my PML as-is, new shocks in the rear, purchase the fiberglass fenders, run 33's on black steelies. Eventually install an air locker (and pray that Richmond decides to introduce a 33-spline Lock-Right in the mean time).

Price should run around $1500 plus another $1200-1500 for the ARB locker OR maybe $400 or so for a Lock-Right :)

Option 2: Throw in the towel on the IFS, bite the bullet and SAS the thing. I have looked into the Calmini kit, axle, coil overs, etc. and it should run around $4500 since I will have my cousin who has SAS's multiple Yota's help me do the labor for free.

Anything you would change in these options? Keep in mind that this is going to be a 10k mile per year vehicle NOT just an offroad rig. What would YOU do?
 

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If those are your two options, I'd go with the first. SAS is awesome and if it's a serious wheeling rig you will want to do a SAS at some point but it a SAS job means you can't afford bigger/better tires then it's not worth it. A rear locker will do more to increase overall traction that an SAS job with an open diff up front. Of course if you planned on installing a locker while you build the front axle then that last comment may not be relevant.

I wheeled hard today with 4 SASed and locked trucks and they were amazed what the Xterra could do with 33s and IFS... I got though some of the hairy sections better than solid axle Yotas locked front and rear on 35" KM2s.
 

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I've made some headway in the decision-making department. I have two options in mind now.

Option 1: Fix my failing lower ball joints, keep my PML as-is, new shocks in the rear, purchase the fiberglass fenders, run 33's on black steelies. Eventually install an air locker (and pray that Richmond decides to introduce a 33-spline Lock-Right in the mean time).

Price should run around $1500 plus another $1200-1500 for the ARB locker OR maybe $400 or so for a Lock-Right :)
As much as I'd like to see another SAS'd X I think personally I would go for option #1 especially since it's still gonna get 10k miles a year. You've got a lot of knowledge on the forum to that are running a similar setup too if any questions come up
 

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Discussion Starter #29
I see pics like this and I think "HECK YEAH!!" ...



But then I have to ask myself, "Would I want to drive that EVERY day?"

Now, I do have another vehicle to drive daily, but I really like driving the X and I like keeping miles off of my Pontiac G8 GT.
 

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I see pics like this and I think "HECK YEAH!!" ...



But then I have to ask myself, "Would I want to drive that EVERY day?"

Now, I do have another vehicle to drive daily, but I really like driving the X and I like keeping miles off of my Pontiac G8 GT.
The VAST majority of SAS'd X's are quickly retired from DD duty, and, migrate to trailer queen status pretty regularly.


The reasons are varied, but, essentially, the more hard core off road you modify a rig to handle, the less suited it is for the highway at speed.

If your roads are slow enough/your DD route is not that long, sure it can work...but, for most of us, going SAS means we have another DD.


Personally, I would not SAS mine, simply because I use mine for work, and that involves long hwy stretches to get TO my off road sites, etc...

...and, its still a 2001 X with umpteen thousand miles on it that will give me bumptkiss if I am in an accident and total it, etc....so The $ for a SAS would exceed its total value.


Having your truck upside down financially is as bad as physically.

:D


I can do all the trails I need to w/o a SAS....so, all a SAS would do is drain my wallet, and make the trails I run more boring....not a great deal.


If I HAD to run harder trails TOO, I'd use the SAS $ to buy an old Sami, CJ, etc....which COMES WITH a front live axle, stock, and modify THAT instead.

:D
 

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When I think of a SASed first gen I see this in my head (Zachbiz's Xterra):



...which is more than most people want to do to their X's if it's their daily driver.

All the more reason to consider the 33s/BL/rear ARB option...
 

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Discussion Starter #32
Thanks for all of your input. I think Option #1 is the direction I will go. I will start a "build thread" on here soon to update ... even though a lot of the stuff I've done already will be missing.

As for now, I just found out that my idler arm, center link and passenger-side LBJ are toast ... so I'm going to fix all of that at the same time.

What is the best way to go about that? Just purchase OEM parts from Nissan and then get aftermarket support products (i.e. idler arm brace) or do you recommend getting aftermarket steering components? If so ... where?
 

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What is the best way to go about that? Just purchase OEM parts from Nissan and then get aftermarket support products (i.e. idler arm brace) or do you recommend getting aftermarket steering components? If so ... where?
Here is Calmini's steering system. Not cheap at $600 but very beefy (definitely stronger than an OEM idler arm and centerlink with an aftermarket idler arm brace). There is a full steering kit on 4x4parts.com as well but then want $1140 for it which is ridiculous... The Calmini kit is half that.

List prices for an OEM idler arm and centerlink are $130 and $215 respectively (prices from Nissanpartsconnetion.com) so already you're looking at around $350 for replacing the OEM parts plus another $40 or so for the IAB... That makes the Calmini kit much more appealing in my opinion.
 

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Discussion Starter #34
In the first part of this thread, someone mentioned that I had "small tires." 265/75/16 is just shy of 32", right? So ... in everyone's honest opinion ... is it really worth having to buy the fiberglass fenders and have them painted for around $500 total in order to clear 33"? (Remember, I can't BL due to the fact that my custom bumper would look stupid after a BL). Is the extra 1.3" really worth it?
 

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It's the width, not the diameter, that makes the biggest difference... A 12.50" wide tire puts a lot more rubber on the deck than a metric 265 (just over 10" wide).

Honestly, how hard would it be to cut your bumper off and build some 2" relocation brackets? My buddy who is a career welder could fashion some relocation brackets in about an hour and he'd do it for a 6-pack and a few slices of Domino's... Can't imagine it would be too hard for you to find someone to do the same. Lot cheaper than $500+ for the fiberglass fenders and paint.

I didn't want to do the 2" BL either but I'm glad it did now.
 

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Discussion Starter #36
How hard would it be for ME to do? Impossible lol. But for my fab guy, it might not be too bad of a project.

For now, my money is going toward the Calmini steering kit, air locker and shocks. I'll start the build thread when I start throwing that stuff on. :)
 

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How hard would it be for ME to do? Impossible lol. But for my fab guy, it might not be too bad of a project.

For now, my money is going toward the Calmini steering kit, air locker and shocks. I'll start the build thread when I start throwing that stuff on. :)
Man, your X will be a tank after those mods! Yes, our IFS sucks for articulation up front but that doesn't make our trucks any less rugged. We can gun it up shit that the Heep guys can't cuz they're scared of breaking stuff...

At least that's how my wheeling trip played out yesterday! :D
 

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If you don't do a stronger steering upgrade make sure you carry a spare set of tie rod ends and the tools to change them on the trails cause this could happen...even though you can't see the bent area you get the "picture"...so to speak.

 

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If you don't do a stronger steering upgrade make sure you carry a spare set of tie rod ends and the tools to change them on the trails cause this could happen...even though you can't see the bent area you get the "picture"...so to speak.

Wouldn't the bent piece be the tie rod adjuster and not the TRE?
 
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