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Discussion Starter #1
Hey guys. I just did upper and lower ball joints on my 2004. While I had it apart I thought I'd do brake pads, they were a bit worn so why not. I have done a ton of brake jobs, but have never seen this issue. I compressed the pistons as you should so you can get new pads in and when I was all done I went to pump it all back up and no brake pedal...right to floor. No leaks anywhere and no brake light, just nothing. Did I ruin the master? I tried to bleed it and get absolutely no fluid at calipers. I took bleeders all the way out and not a drop. I even opened the bleeders and pumped the pedal, nothing! I'm just not getting fluid at calipers. If I open rear fluid comes out as it should. Any ideas? Did I somehow jam up the master cylinder? Anyone ever see this? Thanks for any ideas.

:)
 

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Discussion Starter #2
Can anyone help with this? I have bled many brakes and this is weird. The lines come out of master into some kind of box that looks like it has a pump. I have never seen this. I took both lines of master one at a time. The front one just dripped and the rear one did nothing. I stepped on the pedal and fluid gushed out, but then it didn't drip on it's own when I went back to it. My best guess is the piston isn't returning to "grab" more fluid. Anyone have an idea?? Is there a special way to bleed these brakes once I put on new master? Thanks for any help

Rich
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Thanks man. I saw that thread, but my problem is no fluid to even bleed. Can't get fluid to calipers. I also never bled brakes in a system like this. This is a second vehicle I picked up for winter and I have never had to work on this system. My regular vehicle is a Honda Ridgeline and that thing can't be stopped. I have replaced the brakes on that, but never had to bleed them so never ran into problems. Also don't know what ABS/VDC is. I mean I know what ABS means, but not sure of this part. Must be in repair manual. I always bled brakes on vehicles with it running so pedal would work. I'll try this and see if I get fluid, but I think I have a bigger problem.
 

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Finally have some time! LOL! So the master was junk on my Xterra. I ordered a new one and got wrong part so had to wait for yet another one. I mean it was REALLY wrong, weird. Anyway, did the bench bleed and installed. BTW, the master didn't come with bench bleed kit like I'm used to from the old days. I bought this autopartswarehouse. If you buy one from them don't expect a kit. Also, if you go to the parts store looking for a master bleed kit they give you a ton of fittings, but no two are the same. This master has two of the same so that kit was useless, $10 wasted. I bought a long brake line instead and cut it in half. bent the line how I needed it and bled away. This actually worked better than flexible lines, I didn't have to hold anything. I bled all wheels and got all new fluid through system and it worked great. I did NOT bleed the abs actuator, apparently this step is useless. My brother is a master tech and brakes are one if his specialties and he has never done this. basically if you are getting all fluid at the wheels then there's no air in the actuator, fluid is just passing through anyway. I'm sure someone will tell me how important it is cuz it's in the book, well the book also told me the ball joints weren't seviceable, but I changed them anyway. Now I just need to do a wheel bearing that I'm sure the shop loosened to drum up business, but they won't give me a sticker until it's done so I have to do it. I drove there and I was fine, on the way home I was swaying all over. Hmmmmmm!! I don't trust a lot of shops, a lot are crooks.
 

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That why it best to just do it your self and do it right the first time. That happens a lot when you relive the pressure for a short time on a old master cyl the o-rings start go south and start to curl up from age.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Yeah, no fluid was coming out of the port for front brakes. I pushed on the piston on old master when I took it out and one port shot 8' and one dribbled. lol.
 
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