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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
A few months back I coated my roof rack and side steps with bedliner, and couldn't be happier. I'd like to do my rims with it, but worry that rims will take more hits from small rocks and such (Just in general, I don't offroad much). Does anyone have experience or an opinion with this?
 

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I did the bed liner on my roof rack, wind fairing, and step rails...then I bed lined the rims.

The bedliner chipped after a while, the rough texture held dirt, brake dust, etc. They looked great immediately after they were bed lined, but they quickly faded and I did not like the look.

I eventually bought a used set of stock rims to go back to the alloys.

Also, you have to touch them up any time you put tires on...IE the wheel weights get moved leaving spots where you couldn't spray at first.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
I did the bed liner on my roof rack, wind fairing, and step rails...then I bed lined the rims.

The bedliner chipped after a while, the rough texture held dirt, brake dust, etc. They looked great immediately after they were bed lined, but they quickly faded and I did not like the look.

I eventually bought a used set of stock rims to go back to the alloys.

Also, you have to touch them up any time you put tires on...IE the wheel weights get moved leaving spots where you couldn't spray at first.
Interesting. I've had no issue at all with the side steps and would expect those to take as much as the rims, in term of road debris and such. Did you do much off roading or is the wear you described just from daily use?
 

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It did include some off roading, but that may be 85% of the time, it was on road use.

I think another part of it is that the step rails aren't necessarily a distinct visual feature of the truck. The bottoms of the step rails may chip and peel or wear...but you wouldn't really notice it easily. Having all four rims sprayed with bed liner...and having any amount of fading and chipping is readily visible.

Before:



After:



As you can see...looks great when new. They did not stay that good looking forever.

I recommend bed lining the roof rack...bumpers...rear corners, step rails, etc...but the rims were the only thing I regretted.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
It did include some off roading, but that may be 85% of the time, it was on road use.

I think another part of it is that the step rails aren't necessarily a distinct visual feature of the truck. The bottoms of the step rails may chip and peel or wear...but you wouldn't really notice it easily. Having all four rims sprayed with bed liner...and having any amount of fading and chipping is readily visible.

Before:



After:



As you can see...looks great when new. They did not stay that good looking forever.

I recommend bed lining the roof rack...bumpers...rear corners, step rails, etc...but the rims were the only thing I regretted.
That looks awesome. Love the gas cover too. Do you have any recommendations for a way I can get my current rims black rather than buying new ones? Speaking from a purely financial standpoint. I plan on getting a set of 33's or 35's relatively soon, so if I can't use stock rims on that (don't know) I'd get black ones.


I'm getting my tint done hella dark next week, and after that I wanna do my head/tail lights and rims and fully black it out. Maybe the gas cover too now, I like that a lot.

Edit: See you're missing your rear passenger center hubcap thingy, funny cause I am too. Got broke good when I got hit, the only damage luckily enough.
 

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To get black rims:

1) Buying rims is the best way to go if you want a real good looking finish that is easy to clean.

2) Plasti-dip is a spray on rubber coating. It may not hold up much better...but you have the added benefit of being able to peel it off the rim if you want to go back to the old alloy without damaging the finish.

3) Spray on bed liner your rims, and just touch them up as needed until you get tired of re-doing them.

4) Figure out your tire situation before doing anything, and determine if you want to keep the stock rims...

For tire size, 33" is as big as you can go without doing some drastic cutting or a solid axle swap.

A 2" body lift allows you to clear a 33":

285/75/16 on a 16 inch stock rim = 33x10.5

33x12.50R15 on a 15 inch stock rim


This is where I am now...33x10.50R15 on stock 15" rims:

 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
To get black rims:

1) Buying rims is the best way to go if you want a real good looking finish that is easy to clean.

2) Plasti-dip is a spray on rubber coating. It may not hold up much better...but you have the added benefit of being able to peel it off the rim if you want to go back to the old alloy without damaging the finish.

3) Spray on bed liner your rims, and just touch them up as needed until you get tired of re-doing them.

4) Figure out your tire situation before doing anything, and determine if you want to keep the stock rims...

For tire size, 33" is as big as you can go without doing some drastic cutting or a solid axle swap.

A 2" body lift allows you to clear a 33":

285/75/16 on a 16 inch stock rim = 33x10.5

33x12.50R15 on a 15 inch stock rim


This is where I am now...33x10.50R15 on stock 15" rims:

Hmm, okay. If I were to go with 33s and do a 2" BL (I'd also do some suspension lifts but that's irrelevant with tires if I'm correct), would I need to do any trimming? And would I need any sort of steering upgrades or anything? Or can I simply get the tires on and be good to go?

Also, what about if I did a 3" BL? What would that effect in terms of all that?
 

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The best thing you can do is is become addicted to reading and searching on Xterras because there is a ton of information to learn. Here are some quick answers:

1) 33s and a 2" body lift will require maybe a little plastic trimming in the wheel well. nothing decorative or visible.

2) The suspension flexes up and down. When you are doing a suspension lift, you are "repositioning" the ride height within that upper and lower flex limits....but the suspension can still flex in the same range of positions. You are trading up travel for down travel. This means that a suspension lift will give you tire clearance at ride height only. If you flex your suspension off road, or even just on a sharp corner, the tire will hit whatever was in the way originally.

3) A body lift actually spaces the entire body (IE: Fenders) upwards off of the frame/suspension. This means even at full stuffage of the tire, the fenders are 2" further away from the tires than if the tire was fully stuffed without the body lift.

4) Steering system on a 2000-2004 Xterra is the major weak spot. If you are going to drop money on big tires, I most definitely would spend the money on some major steering reinforcements. Tie rod adjusters (4x4parts.com), idler arm brace (total chaos fabrication, 4x4parts.com, calmini), idler arm bushings (bandit4x4 bronze bushings), and center link (grassroots4x4). Calmini also has a full steering kit, and so does 4x4parts.com and total chaos fabrication. The kits are much stronger, but pricey. nothing is worse than spending $1000 on tires and wearing them out because you can't hold an aligment.

5) Since a body lift spaces the body/cab upwards off of the frame/suspension, you need to relocate anything that connects to both the frame, and the body. For instance, the power steering reservoir mounts to the body in the engine bay, but the hoses run down to a frame mounted line. You need to lengthen the hose by 2 or 3 inches...or drop the reservoir down by 2 or 3 inches. Many of the stock lines have ~2" of slack where you can simply re-adjust them to reach for a 2" body lift. A 3" body lift will involve more work with extending things to reach that extra inch. I believe you can also run 35" tires with a 3" body lift, though. it is a trade off: how much work do you want to do for 35s?

6) Most people do a 2" body lift since it is easier... and stick with 33s. 35s will but a lot more strain on the steering, and make the truck a lot slower. 33s are usually a nice step up from stock, but not too much for a daily driver. With 35s, you get into needing to re-gear to keep a reasonable level of street performance.

7) It all comes down to money and skill. How much do you want to spend to get how tall? If you have all the skills and mechanic know how to do it all yourself, it may be more enticing to go bigger. If you aren't very mechanically inclined, going as big as possible may be biting off more than you can chew.
 

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I dipped my wheels at the same time as my trim and everything. Surprisingly, the wheels are still flawless while the trim is peeling bad. Although I have 12.5s on 7" wide wheels so they are pretty protected lol.
 
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