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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hey guys, I recently had the engine replaced in my 03 SC. Motor runs strong (5-8 lbs of boost) but every once in awhile, usually 5-10 minutes after warm up, it will bog out like there’s a bad MAF sensor. The MAF is brand new! Check engine light is on. Here’s where it really gets weird. As soon as I feel it start to bog out I throw it in neutral then back to drive and it’s fine. Any ideas?? Thanks
 

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2015 Xterra Pro-4X
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Hey guys, I recently had the engine replaced in my 03 SC. Motor runs strong (5-8 lbs of boost) but every once in awhile, usually 5-10 minutes after warm up, it will bog out like there’s a bad MAF sensor. The MAF is brand new! Check engine light is on. Here’s where it really gets weird. As soon as I feel it start to bog out I throw it in neutral then back to drive and it’s fine. Any ideas?? Thanks
So are you able to tell us what the engine code is?
 

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It sounds like your X is dropping into limp mode to protect the engine. Any code that will mess with the timing advance will drop you into limp mode on the SC.

You really need to get those codes read. Otherwise you're just throwing darts blindfolded. There are a number of codes that will cause a supercharged X to drop into limp mode. Some of these will not throw a light, but often come up in conjunction with other codes and the only way to know you have them is to get a scanner. Knock sensor is a common one with the SC.

If you can, get an OBDII reader that you can hook up to your smartphone so that you can check the codes, clear them when you think they are fixed, and check again to make sure they haven't returned.

I recommend OBDLINK and many also recommend BLUEDRIVER.

Once you get the codes read come back and post them. That will help us give you some insight into what to check. Keep in mind that most codes are general codes for a system. For example misfire code can be caused by a bunch of possible problems, but it provides you with a point to start from to do your best Sherlock Holmes impression and track down the culprit without throwing random parts and money at the car with the hope that you get lucky.
 
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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
I’ll try to get the codes read asap. So when I do throw it into neutral I’m able to rev the engine without any issues. Doesn’t sputter or bog down
 

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I would check to make sure the connection to the speed sensor is good. If it is, then you may want to replace that sensor.

The bad knock sensor will drop an SC into limp mode, so you'll have to replace the sensor. On the normally aspirated X many people opt to move the knock sensor to an easier to reach location. DO NOT do this on an SC model as the knock sensor actually performs an important function for your vehicle.

As for the P0152. That typically means that you're running rich, but the computer is unable to balance it out. For this I would start with checking the Fuel Pressure regulator. You'll want to pull the FPR vacuum line off of the intake manifold. I'm not familiar with where it is located on SC model, so you'll need to look for it. Charge the fuel system by turning the key to the on position or starting the vehicle. Pull the vacuum line off and see if fuel dribbles out. If you get fuel coming out of the hose you need to replace the FPR.

Another possibility is that you have a leaky fuel injector. Basically it's staying open or partially open so that fuel is constantly dribbling into the cylinder. This would require pulling the fuel injectors and testing them. Because of the work and time involved I would check the FPR first.

I'm sure Blackberry will probably have some more insight.
 

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I would check to make sure the connection to the speed sensor is good. If it is, then you may want to replace that sensor.

The bad knock sensor will drop an SC into limp mode, so you'll have to replace the sensor. On the normally aspirated X many people opt to move the knock sensor to an easier to reach location. DO NOT do this on an SC model as the knock sensor actually performs an important function for your vehicle.

As for the P0152. That typically means that you're running rich, but the computer is unable to balance it out. For this I would start with checking the Fuel Pressure regulator. You'll want to pull the FPR vacuum line off of the intake manifold. I'm not familiar with where it is located on SC model, so you'll need to look for it. Charge the fuel system by turning the key to the on position or starting the vehicle. Pull the vacuum line off and see if fuel dribbles out. If you get fuel coming out of the hose you need to replace the FPR.

Another possibility is that you have a leaky fuel injector. Basically it's staying open or partially open so that fuel is constantly dribbling into the cylinder. This would require pulling the fuel injectors and testing them. Because of the work and time involved I would check the FPR first.

I'm sure Blackberry will probably have some more insight.
If I may. Just a side note. I would pull spark plugs and inspect them one at a time to see if I find a cylinder that is running rich by reading the plug....not tan as expected but black from a rich fuel mixture. Would be trying to avoid gaining access to the all the injectors vs finding something pointing to one as a possible bad player.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
So I found a video that describes the exact same issue I’m having. (Drive for 5 mins after warm up, starts to bog down, throw it in neutral then back to drive). The guy removed his instrument cluster, re-soldered all the connections and the problem went away. I’ll likely order a speed sensor and a new cluster. As for the knock sensor, I’ve read it can be quite the job. Might be a good idea to leave that one to the professionals.
 

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So I found a video that describes the exact same issue I’m having. (Drive for 5 mins after warm up, starts to bog down, throw it in neutral then back to drive). The guy removed his instrument cluster, re-soldered all the connections and the problem went away. I’ll likely order a speed sensor and a new cluster. As for the knock sensor, I’ve read it can be quite the job. Might be a good idea to leave that one to the professionals.
I'd like to know what the engine warming up for 5 mins has to do with bad solder joints on a instrument cluster.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
As would I, pretty strange but seems to be the remedy


if that link doesn’t work search Nissan Xterra p0500 code vehicle speed sensor problem on YouTube
 

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I think it might be related to the speed sensor, but definitely not related to the knock sensor or the fact you're running rich!

Knock sensor could be b/c of a bad sensor, but could also be a perfectly well functioning sensor but it is indeed sensing knock with the engine running rough due to some underlying problem. I would try to fix the 'P0152 - high voltage' code first, then clear your codes and see if the knock sensor issue goes away or not. Personally also going through similar steps right now trying to diagnose if I actually have knock - I'm only seeing the knock sensor code, so much harder to even figure out where to poke to diagnose it! Ugh, haha.
 
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