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2001 Nissan Xterra XE 3.3L V6 4wd auto
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Discussion Starter · #41 ·
Additional reference:
Dec 2, 2007

From the manual:

Automatic transmission park
warning light ( model)
This light indicates that the automatic transmission
parking function is not engaged. If
the transfer control shift lever is not secured
in any drive position while the automatic
transmission selector lever is in the P (Park)
position, the vehicle may move unexpectedly.
Shift the transfer control shift lever into the
2H, 4H, or 4L position when the warning
light comes on.
When parking, always make sure that the
transfer control shift lever is in 2H, 4H, or
4L and the parking brake is set.
If the ATP light is ON, this indicates that
the automatic transmission P (Park) position
will not function and the transfer
control shift lever is in the N (Neutral)
position.
Failure to engage the transfer control shift
lever in 2H, 4H, or 4L could result in the
vehicle moving unexpectedly, resulting in
serious personal injury or property damage.
I've read that over and over, it stays in gear. Doesn't roll when I put it into park, shifts freely and smooth into 2hi, 4hi and 4lo. I've been told a short can throw false codes and today I was told that a harness from your starter goes through that relay. If there is a short or that plug is loose (bad connection) I can see why it would throw that warning light. I'm about to go dig into all of that right now.
 

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Thanks again for all your help... if I run into something I'll probably come to you first... hope that's OK, you seem to know a hell of a lot about xterras when everyone else is vague about everything. As always appreciate your help. What are you working on with yours?
currently working on the rear main seal.......recently got this 04 for my youngest...had to swap out the distributor only for the Cam shaft sensor...since I have an 86 Z, the engines are very similar and since I didnt have a good history on this X, checked the timing belt and found that whoever installed the belt did a decent job (replaced the water pump, cam and crank seals) but for the tensioner which was placed in the wrong position...anyhow had oil leak in passenger valve cover and the oil pan (had a small leak and huge dent) as well and took opportunity to change tranny fluid/filter and swap out the tie rods ends etc only to find out that-- started the engine (which now sounds amazing) and was refilling the tranny fluid, checked underneath for leaks....still rear oil leak...after a few choice words, here I am now...馃槚....lol
 

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2001 Nissan Xterra XE 3.3L V6 4wd auto
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34 Posts
Discussion Starter · #43 ·
currently working on the rear main seal.......recently got this 04 for my youngest...had to swap out the distributor only for the Cam shaft sensor...since I have an 86 Z, the engines are very similar and since I didnt have a good history on this X, checked the timing belt and found that whoever installed the belt did a decent job (replaced the water pump, cam and crank seals) but for the tensioner which was placed in the wrong position...anyhow had oil leak in passenger valve cover and the oil pan (had a small leak and huge dent) as well and took opportunity to change tranny fluid/filter and swap out the tie rods ends etc only to find out that-- started the engine (which now sounds amazing) and was refilling the tranny fluid, checked underneath for leaks....still rear oil leak...after a few choice words, here I am now...馃槚....lol
Sounds like you're Hella busy then... I'm just taking this one step at a time, like you suggested. Found out the harness we just rebuilt with new wiring for the alternator wasn't clipped in right(not my job, but my car) it came loose and almost melted to the cat. Checked everything else, I think that's why my 100 amp fuse blew. I'm putting that back together.
I think I've got this right... the 2 white bigger gauged wires connect to the alternator loop back up to the 2 connectors opposite side of the battery then go back to the passenger side fusible link negative side. The black/red wire connects the battery to the starter and back to the fusible link positive side. Basic, simple version I guess. Right or wrong?
 

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2001 Nissan Xterra XE 3.3L V6 4wd auto
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Discussion Starter · #44 ·
What kind of history do you have with your X? Don't mean to be nosey, just curious I guess... I've loved my X but do you think it's time to just get something else, a different X possibly? Just cut my losses and save my time... I really don't want to but that's where my head is right now
 

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2001 Nissan Xterra XE 3.3L V6 4wd auto
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Discussion Starter · #45 ·
Quick ??? Does it matter where you attach the ground wire on the alternator?
 

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What kind of history do you have with your X? Don't mean to be nosey, just curious I guess... I've loved my X but do you think it's time to just get something else, a different X possibly? Just cut my losses and save my time... I really don't want to but that's where my head is right now
not much history at all......just don't trust any seller.....bought it for my kid 1 month ago so checking everything i can think of and changing anything I can get to while i have things out...for ex-- when I finally get the tranny out; I'm changing the crankshaft sensor and I think I can get to the fuel pressure regulator while I'm back there...the problem nowadays is that there are too many sensors to keep track of....lol :rolleyes:
And to answer your question about whether to keep the X, I'm always about saving money and learning new things about the cars one has.....nowadays when cars "go bad" too many people just get rid of them because they don't want to bother with them, IMHO, unless you have to repair something BIG like say crankshaft or pistons etc everything else is gravy....I've noticed that on Nissans (especially in my Z) engines can last a looooong time; its the peripherals (sensors, batteries, wires, etc) that tend to need most maintenance......so if you love your ride and already put the time into it to keep it maintained, why not keep it?! look at it this way, if/when you find out what the heck is wrong, maybe you can score another of the same vehicle that has the same issue and be able buy it on the cheap and be able to also fix it on the cheap........what sucks is the time it takes to get there, and the amt of choice words along the way but when it is all said and done, you'll be confident that it'll last you for some more years and then some.....just my $0.02 :geek:
 

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Sounds like you're Hella busy then... I'm just taking this one step at a time, like you suggested. Found out the harness we just rebuilt with new wiring for the alternator wasn't clipped in right(not my job, but my car) it came loose and almost melted to the cat. Checked everything else, I think that's why my 100 amp fuse blew. I'm putting that back together.
I think I've got this right... the 2 white bigger gauged wires connect to the alternator loop back up to the 2 connectors opposite side of the battery then go back to the passenger side fusible link negative side. The black/red wire connects the battery to the starter and back to the fusible link positive side. Basic, simple version I guess. Right or wrong?
This should help:

77439
77440
 

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2001 Nissan Xterra XE 3.3L V6 4wd auto
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34 Posts
Discussion Starter · #49 ·
Thanks, I got that side all put back together and I absolutely know everything is how it's supposed to be. I found this on the frontier forum... what do you think?

QUOTE="Steve R, post: 3930955, member: 284093"]
After much fiddling, problem solved. Nissan, in it's infinite wisdom, put a relay up under the dash that sends power to the ignition switch which not only affects the starting circuit, but the instrument cluster, turn signals, wipers, and for some reason, the cam position sensor in the distributor. That relay had been steadily failing, and on a chance I swapped it out for the blower relay and everything came back. Thanks for pointing me at the ignition switch as that proved to be the crucial starting point.

What I learnd is that witing digrams, even factory, are no substitue for good schematics and my main error was not paying to purchase them outright.
not much history at all......just don't trust any seller.....bought it for my kid 1 month ago so checking everything i can think of and changing anything I can get to while i have things out...for ex-- when I finally get the tranny out; I'm changing the crankshaft sensor and I think I can get to the fuel pressure regulator while I'm back there...the problem nowadays is that there are too many sensors to keep track of....lol :rolleyes:
And to answer your question about whether to keep the X, I'm always about saving money and learning new things about the cars one has.....nowadays when cars "go bad" too many people just get rid of them because they don't want to bother with them, IMHO, unless you have to repair something BIG like say crankshaft or pistons etc everything else is gravy....I've noticed that on Nissans (especially in my Z) engines can last a looooong time; its the peripherals (sensors, batteries, wires, etc) that tend to need most maintenance......so if you love your ride and already put the time into it to keep it maintained, why not keep it?! look at it this way, if/when you find out what the heck is wrong, maybe you can score another of the same vehicle that has the same issue and be able buy it on the cheap and be able to also fix it on the cheap........what sucks is the time it takes to get there, and the amt of choice words along the way but when it is all said and done, you'll be confident that it'll last you for some more years and then some.....just my $0.02 :geek:
You're completely right and I agree with you 100%. I know once I do figure out wtf is going on it will be something simple, something small just over looked or something new like the relay I mentioned earlier. I've learned so much about my X just doing the small things and when a problem like this comes along you learn even more and fix all the little things you come across or like you said you're already there why not fix it. I'm just aggravated and irritated!!! I'm sure you know the feeling but when it's all said and done
I can say ya that's mine and I fix and take care of everything (with a lot of help from people like you) appreciate it
 

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Thanks, I got that side all put back together and I absolutely know everything is how it's supposed to be. I found this on the frontier forum... what do you think?

QUOTE="Steve R, post: 3930955, member: 284093"]
After much fiddling, problem solved. Nissan, in it's infinite wisdom, put a relay up under the dash that sends power to the ignition switch which not only affects the starting circuit, but the instrument cluster, turn signals, wipers, and for some reason, the cam position sensor in the distributor. That relay had been steadily failing, and on a chance I swapped it out for the blower relay and everything came back. Thanks for pointing me at the ignition switch as that proved to be the crucial starting point.

What I learnd is that witing digrams, even factory, are no substitue for good schematics and my main error was not paying to purchase them outright.

You're completely right and I agree with you 100%. I know once I do figure out wtf is going on it will be something simple, something small just over looked or something new like the relay I mentioned earlier. I've learned so much about my X just doing the small things and when a problem like this comes along you learn even more and fix all the little things you come across or like you said you're already there why not fix it. I'm just aggravated and irritated!!! I'm sure you know the feeling but when it's all said and done
I can say ya that's mine and I fix and take care of everything (with a lot of help from people like you) appreciate it
I would say go for it as to the relay; I would look at the PNP and also the ignition relay.....you can swap it out with another of the same and see ...but also don't overlook the ignition switch itself though either, make sure all the wires are intact and not shorting, etc etc.....and YES, definitely know what you mean about the aggravation and irritation....but how much "fun" would it be if there wasn't frustration....;) ......cheers!
 

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2001 Nissan Xterra XE 3.3L V6 4wd auto
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Discussion Starter · #51 ·
I would say go for it as to the relay; I would look at the PNP and also the ignition relay.....you can swap it out with another of the same and see ...but also don't overlook the ignition switch itself though either, make sure all the wires are intact and not shorting, etc etc.....and YES, definitely know what you mean about the aggravation and irritation....but how much "fun" would it be if there wasn't frustration....;) ......cheers!
I checked the ignition and pnp relays, even did a check with my mm.. check this out if you ever need to know what fuse does what, every function, ) it literally has every fuse diagram and all the things each fuse and relay control. I pulled that relay and used the blower relay right next to it and it didn't make a difference. I know the blower is good, the acc relay is right there too but no luck. This is the description I got instead of just "meter"

Fuse#11 10 amp=
Combination Meter, Clutch Interlock Relay, 4WD Switch, Back-Up Lamp Switch, Transfer Neutral Position Switch, CAN Converter, Steering Wheel Angle Sensor, Compass and Thermometer, Data Link Connector

I just copied that for just the fuse I'm blowing, instead of it just saying meter. Very informative I guess, maybe one day it could help you out. From what I can tell, you probably already know everything.

Do you know much about the "fuel gauge sending unit"? I think that's what he called it but it was the only code I'm throwing. I just used the obd2 scanner at autozone to see if there was anything. They printed me off a paper but I don't remember him giving it to me. I'm pretty sure you can access them under the passenger back seat once you remove the seat and cover.
I'm having some trouble finding any info and the exact locations of the Data Link Connector and Transfer Neutral Position Switch. I have a general idea from the manual but there are so many how do you know you are checking the right one?
 

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2001 Nissan Xterra XE 3.3L V6 4wd auto
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Discussion Starter · #52 ·
The codes I got are...
P0500 vehicle speed sensor A
P0464 fuel level sensor A circuit intermittent
 

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I checked the ignition and pnp relays, even did a check with my mm.. check this out if you ever need to know what fuse does what, every function, ) it literally has every fuse diagram and all the things each fuse and relay control. I pulled that relay and used the blower relay right next to it and it didn't make a difference. I know the blower is good, the acc relay is right there too but no luck. This is the description I got instead of just "meter"

Fuse#11 10 amp=
Combination Meter, Clutch Interlock Relay, 4WD Switch, Back-Up Lamp Switch, Transfer Neutral Position Switch, CAN Converter, Steering Wheel Angle Sensor, Compass and Thermometer, Data Link Connector

I just copied that for just the fuse I'm blowing, instead of it just saying meter. Very informative I guess, maybe one day it could help you out. From what I can tell, you probably already know everything.

Do you know much about the "fuel gauge sending unit"? I think that's what he called it but it was the only code I'm throwing. I just used the obd2 scanner at autozone to see if there was anything. They printed me off a paper but I don't remember him giving it to me. I'm pretty sure you can access them under the passenger back seat once you remove the seat and cover.
I'm having some trouble finding any info and the exact locations of the Data Link Connector and Transfer Neutral Position Switch. I have a general idea from the manual but there are so many how do you know you are checking the right one?
NICE...Thanks for the link!

The Transfer Neutral switch should be on the Transmission/transfer case....
also

The data link connector is the connector that you connect the OBDII reader to

Did your cluster's speedometer (needle moved erratically) and fuel level indicator (when you filled up did it indicate FULL correctly or drop all of a sudden) have any issues before all this? Don't negate the cluster itself as the culprit......did you clear your codes after you were told what the codes were that the car was throwing to see if it would throw it again?
 

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I checked the ignition and pnp relays, even did a check with my mm.. check this out if you ever need to know what fuse does what, every function, ) it literally has every fuse diagram and all the things each fuse and relay control. I pulled that relay and used the blower relay right next to it and it didn't make a difference. I know the blower is good, the acc relay is right there too but no luck. This is the description I got instead of just "meter"

Fuse#11 10 amp=
Combination Meter, Clutch Interlock Relay, 4WD Switch, Back-Up Lamp Switch, Transfer Neutral Position Switch, CAN Converter, Steering Wheel Angle Sensor, Compass and Thermometer, Data Link Connector

I just copied that for just the fuse I'm blowing, instead of it just saying meter. Very informative I guess, maybe one day it could help you out. From what I can tell, you probably already know everything.

Do you know much about the "fuel gauge sending unit"? I think that's what he called it but it was the only code I'm throwing. I just used the obd2 scanner at autozone to see if there was anything. They printed me off a paper but I don't remember him giving it to me. I'm pretty sure you can access them under the passenger back seat once you remove the seat and cover.
I'm having some trouble finding any info and the exact locations of the Data Link Connector and Transfer Neutral Position Switch. I have a general idea from the manual but there are so many how do you know you are checking the right one?
I checked the ignition and pnp relays, even did a check with my mm.. check this out if you ever need to know what fuse does what, every function, ) it literally has every fuse diagram and all the things each fuse and relay control. I pulled that relay and used the blower relay right next to it and it didn't make a difference. I know the blower is good, the acc relay is right there too but no luck. This is the description I got instead of just "meter"

Fuse#11 10 amp=
Combination Meter, Clutch Interlock Relay, 4WD Switch, Back-Up Lamp Switch, Transfer Neutral Position Switch, CAN Converter, Steering Wheel Angle Sensor, Compass and Thermometer, Data Link Connector

I just copied that for just the fuse I'm blowing, instead of it just saying meter. Very informative I guess, maybe one day it could help you out. From what I can tell, you probably already know everything.

Do you know much about the "fuel gauge sending unit"? I think that's what he called it but it was the only code I'm throwing. I just used the obd2 scanner at autozone to see if there was anything. They printed me off a paper but I don't remember him giving it to me. I'm pretty sure you can access them under the passenger back seat once you remove the seat and cover.
I'm having some trouble finding any info and the exact locations of the Data Link Connector and Transfer Neutral Position Switch. I have a general idea from the manual but there are so many how do you know you are checking the right one?
Vehicle speed sensor
77449
77450



The Transfer Neutral switch is # 32006X.....
 

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Discussion Starter · #55 ·
NICE...Thanks for the link!

The Transfer Neutral switch should be on the Transmission/transfer case....
also

The data link connector is the connector that you connect the OBDII reader to

Did your cluster's speedometer (needle moved erratically) and fuel level indicator (when you filled up did it indicate FULL correctly or drop all of a sudden) have any issues before all this? Don't negate the cluster itself as the culprit......did you clear your codes after you were told what the codes were that the car was throwing to see if it would throw it again?
I figured thats what the data link was, it also sounded like it could have been something with the ecu, etc. I took my 4 year old over to a place near my house that has some steep hills and a little back trail that goes up the side of a mountain, nothing dangerous and he absolutely loves it. My rear sway bar broke my shock and bent another part of my lift( I can't think at all right now) I had just replaced both of them. I heard that a lot of people take the sway bars off completely anyway so I left the rear off. We got there and everything was going great, felt solid no problems and I kind of stretched going up and over a small but steep hill. The next thing I know nothing on the cluster worked, not even the digital mileage. I don't know if that's relevant but you never know. Only other cluster problem was the damn dimmer switch(still works fine)so no lights but everything else worked. No codes or ses light, abs light but I took care of that. As for the recent codes the fuel level sensor A circuit intermittent came back but the vss hasn't yet. If the entire cluster was bad would it show the red atp light down in the corner? That's the part that I don't get at all... ive seen and people ask if the lights or warning lights may be out, the guage lights work and the atp.
I've heard of the entire cluster going out and that the white connector is known for some issues, specifically the white/black wire lower right side but I checked it, the voltage and continuity were good so was the ground. Atleast according to the manual. I'm probably going to go buy one of those electrical open/short wire detector wand things tomorrow. You apparently just clip the receiver to the circuit it's on and run the wand thing over the wiring and it gets faster the closer you are then is a solid tone when you are right on top of it. If it doesn't work I'll take it back but I am out, out of patience. Feels like I'm running in circles. Thanks for the videos now I'll know what circuit and where to be looking exactly. If you think of anything else let me know and I'll do the same if I do figure it out. I'll probably go pull a cluster from the junk yard and see if it works, hell if I go pull it and it does work... I'll have mine out anyway I'll just take that one back in and say nope. Doubt I could do it, even though they screwed me over. Thanks again for all your help, really appreciated!!!
1 other thing, what do your relays measure at with a dmm? Most of mine were between 76-80 ohms, that about right?
 

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Discussion Starter · #56 ·
!!!!!!FINALLY!!!!!!
ATP LIGHT is off!!! Alternator is finally charging the battery at 14.5v, battery steady no drain at 12.8v. Still have a little work to do fixing a connection,a singleyellow/black wire with a tiny piece of melted copper was the culprit. Barely reachable to check and I only saw it at night. Pull the terminals out in the morning and connect a little more wire and plug her back in... unbelievable that could cause no guages, digital odometer, speed, rpms, temp, gas, all warning lights, 2 batteries, 2 alternators, hours and days of searching through wires, harnesses, entire meter, 100's of connections, going over the manual hours on end on sleepless nights, but I can finally see the light at the end of the tunnel. Special THANK YOU to Eltigre90 for his patience, wisdom and overall kindness. Especially the help he gave to someone he has never met except in this forum a week or 2 ago. Anything you ever need... no questions asked please come to me, I don't know if I could ever help him the way he helped me but I sure as he'll would like to try! Again, thank you for everything. Not very many people willing to help a complete stranger like he constantly did, the world could use more people like you.
VideoCapture_20210725-005319.jpg
 

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2004 Xterra XE 4WD Auto 3.3L NA V6
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@06smoked13
I'm really happy to see that you got it fixed. I know the relief that comes after that much frustration!

And I second your comment about the world needing more people like @Eltigre90. Good job, sir! I wish I could have helped more than the little bit that I tried.
 
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