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Absolutely no room to work, but I'm thinking of taking apart the positive terminal and work towards it. There are a lot more splits and connectors the other way, it also ends up going through the fire wall to the other fuse box. THANK YOU for all your help and again I appreciate your time and explanations. It's nice to know there are still great people out there willing to help
Sounds like a good plan. Thanks for the kind words. It's good to know I may have been some help.
 

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Just a quick question…. Did anyone tried jumping the vehicle b4 all of the problems started?! If yes …. Good possibility that cables were crossed….. or battery cables or terminals were in contact….. if either of these had a possibility of happening U HAVE A BIGGER PROBLEM…..I work on towing business for 15 years…. I see a lot
 

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Just a quick question…. Did anyone tried jumping the vehicle b4 all of the problems started?! If yes …. Good possibility that cables were crossed….. or battery cables or terminals were in contact….. if either of these had a possibility of happening U HAVE A BIGGER PROBLEM…..I work on towing business for 15 years…. I see a lot
Absolutely! Most people aren't aware that a battery charged with the polarity reversed will take a charge. It won't work in a vehicle however.
 

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I'm in need of some advice from anyone who has an idea... I have 2 problems with my 2001 xterra xe 4wd 3.3 l v6 automatic:
1. Atp light, the lights work but I don't get anything else. No warning lights, gas, rpms, speed or temperature. I've checked wiring, fuses, relays and can't find anything.
2. Alternator is not working, after replacing it twice. The first new one tested bad after installing, so I had to do it again. New battery holds good charge between 12.5-12.7 until I start driving it slowly drops until the X completely dies. Checked all connections, new terminals, new ground on battery, checked all body and engine grounds with mm. All fine, could these be related??? Desperately need some help and advice... thanks in advance I appreciate every input I can get.
Don't know if you fixed the issue or not but:

There should be four wires you need to be cognizant of through the connections on the alternator:
Black (which is ground) - which should be connected on the body of the alternator
Green/Black (terminal S) - which detects the input voltage which in turn is used to control the output voltage (hence the voltage regulator)
White (terminal B; the OUTPUT voltage) the larger connector---goes to the fusible link then to the battery for charging
and
then there is the Yellow/Black (which provides the ground on/off to Specifically to the CHARGE indicator light in the Instrument Cluster) - this connection path goes from alternator to cluster indicator to FUSE 11; the way it should work is when you turn the ignition to START/ON; electricity should flow directly Through fuse 11, which then flows to the charge indicator light in the cluster and then to the alternator which the alternator provides the ground for that circuit which then LIGHTS the indicator showing that you have LOW charge. So the moment when the car starts and then the alternator now generates power (the 14V etc), the alternator then CEASES to provide the ground to the cluster indicator therefore turning the indicator off. So if you are blowing FUSE 11 each time you turn the ignition, then you have a short possibly in the alternator (if not connected correctly or just bad) or you have a short in the actual INSTRUMENT Cluster (which can be a possibility of why NOTHING else turns on ie-guages, etc) or you simply have a short along any of the wire connecting the path from one entity to another.

A good way to see if you have a short in the cluster is put a new fuse in FUSE 11 and then disconnect the cluster itself, then turn the ignition to ON and see if it blows, if it doesn't, then retry this time (keeping the cluster disconnected) disconnect the Yellow/Black wire to the alternator, then turn the ignition again, if still doesn't blow; this time keep the the ignition to on and REconnect the cluster, IF Fuse 11 NOW blows then there is a short in the cluster, if the fuse does not blow then (keeping iginition ON and ckluster connected) REconnect the alternator, if it THEN blows Fuse 11 you may have short in the alternator and/or cluster.

Hope this helps
 

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2001 Nissan Xterra XE 3.3L V6 4wd auto
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Discussion Starter · #27 ·
Actually helps a lot, I took that entire cluster off the alternator this weekend. This is what I found.
77419

Basically the 2 white wires were rubbing together all the way down about 6 inches from the alternator connection. The copper was showing all the way through right at the connection point.
So I bought new 6 gauge wire, took it all apart and reconnected it. Thought everything was OK and got on the freeway about an hour ago and everything electrical completely died. No windows, horn, door locks, etc. I was able to keep driving it to my wife's work which was about 5 minutes from where I was. Got there just fine, engine idling and driving just fine until I parked it and turned it off. I tried to restart it and absolutely nothing, not a sound. Borrowed my wife's car to get to my Dr's appointment. Just got back to look at it and don't even know where to start...
In other words I'm fu*#ed!!!
 

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Discussion Starter · #28 ·
Don't know if you fixed the issue or not but:

There should be four wires you need to be cognizant of through the connections on the alternator:
Black (which is ground) - which should be connected on the body of the alternator
Green/Black (terminal S) - which detects the input voltage which in turn is used to control the output voltage (hence the voltage regulator)
White (terminal B; the OUTPUT voltage) the larger connector---goes to the fusible link then to the battery for charging
and
then there is the Yellow/Black (which provides the ground on/off to Specifically to the CHARGE indicator light in the Instrument Cluster) - this connection path goes from alternator to cluster indicator to FUSE 11; the way it should work is when you turn the ignition to START/ON; electricity should flow directly Through fuse 11, which then flows to the charge indicator light in the cluster and then to the alternator which the alternator provides the ground for that circuit which then LIGHTS the indicator showing that you have LOW charge. So the moment when the car starts and then the alternator now generates power (the 14V etc), the alternator then CEASES to provide the ground to the cluster indicator therefore turning the indicator off. So if you are blowing FUSE 11 each time you turn the ignition, then you have a short possibly in the alternator (if not connected correctly or just bad) or you have a short in the actual INSTRUMENT Cluster (which can be a possibility of why NOTHING else turns on ie-guages, etc) or you simply have a short along any of the wire connecting the path from one entity to another.

A good way to see if you have a short in the cluster is put a new fuse in FUSE 11 and then disconnect the cluster itself, then turn the ignition to ON and see if it blows, if it doesn't, then retry this time (keeping the cluster disconnected) disconnect the Yellow/Black wire to the alternator, then turn the ignition again, if still doesn't blow; this time keep the the ignition to on and REconnect the cluster, IF Fuse 11 NOW blows then there is a short in the cluster, if the fuse does not blow then (keeping iginition ON and ckluster connected) REconnect the alternator, if it THEN blows Fuse 11 you may have short in the alternator and/or cluster.

Hope this helps
I did put a new fuse in with the disconnected meter cluster and turned it to on and the fuse blew not connected to the meter. I'm blowing fuse 11 constantly, thank you for explaining that in such detail. If I can somehow get it home I'll try what you just described. The yellow/black wire is what I have been trying to trace but haven't checked all of it. Do you know what the solid yellow wire is that disappears into a small connector then has a black wire that goes into the emergency brake? Is it the e brake light for the cluster or a ground, or does it keep going to something else?
 

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2004 Xterra XE 4WD Auto 3.3L NA V6
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Those 2 wires in your picture did not short out your fuse. They are hooked to the same terminal so they are at the same potential (aka, voltage). What one has, so does the other.

Your issue is elsewhere, but it looks like you're getting closer!
 

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I did put a new fuse in with the disconnected meter cluster and turned it to on and the fuse blew not connected to the meter. I'm blowing fuse 11 constantly, thank you for explaining that in such detail. If I can somehow get it home I'll try what you just described. The yellow/black wire is what I have been trying to trace but haven't checked all of it. Do you know what the solid yellow wire is that disappears into a small connector then has a black wire that goes into the emergency brake? Is it the e brake light for the cluster or a ground, or does it keep going to something else?
If you are still blowing Fuse 11 and disconnected the cluster than something else is shorting that goes to that Fuse. That Fuse supplies the cluster for other gauges plus the following:

  • Back-up Lamp Switch (White/Black then Yellow red to back up lights)
  • Transfer Neutral Position Switch/4WD
  • Can Lan Converter
-Steering Angle Sensor
-Compass/thermometer
- Tire warning Relay

So any of the above could in and of themselves be shorted of any wire going to/from them be shorted giving you a blown fuse.

As for the solid yellow wire, are you talking about the one that goes from the cluster to the low tire pressure warning control?? the parking brake should have nothing to do with Fuse 11
 

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Discussion Starter · #31 ·
I'm not saying the yellow wire has nothing to do with fuse 11... just curious if someone had any idea what it was, I accidentally (my wife) gift her fancy ass shoes caught on it and basically ripped it out.
So I remade that whole cluster anyway since it looked like it would be a future problem. The first time I started it me and my friend helping me heard a pretty loud pop but couldn't find anything wrong. Drove it for a few days and going 75 on the freeway I lose everything electrical, I blew the 100 amp fusible link fuse. So I checked everything in the fuse box and under, the same white 8 guage wires had copper coming through at the ends. Cleaned that up as much as possible got a new fuse and it blows. So I unplug the new alternator wire I just fixed, it's running on just the battery anyway. Today I drove it for a while, parked and 10 minutes later went out to start it and nothing. Battery at 12.6v. all the power works, no clicking from the starter... just nothing, I messed with the 3 or 4 wires that go from the starter to the battery or close to it. Starts right up, turn it off it goes back to nothing. Wait about an hour and it will start up once and do the same thing. I'm so done with that God damn thing!!!
I figure the short has got to be in one of the wires from the starter to the battery. If I'm wrong please tell me. If anyone has a picture of their starter hooked up with all the wires I would love to see it. It just looks wrong, when me and my friend checked it before he put it back together. The bigger guage power wire with the big metal L shape end is hanging off the side, and I can't tell which one is the power nut and negative nut cuz you can't see anything. PLEASE HELP ME BEFORE I GIVE THE DAMN THING AWAY!!!! thank you
 

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I'm not saying the yellow wire has nothing to do with fuse 11... just curious if someone had any idea what it was, I accidentally (my wife) gift her fancy ass shoes caught on it and basically ripped it out.
So I remade that whole cluster anyway since it looked like it would be a future problem. The first time I started it me and my friend helping me heard a pretty loud pop but couldn't find anything wrong. Drove it for a few days and going 75 on the freeway I lose everything electrical, I blew the 100 amp fusible link fuse. So I checked everything in the fuse box and under, the same white 8 guage wires had copper coming through at the ends. Cleaned that up as much as possible got a new fuse and it blows. So I unplug the new alternator wire I just fixed, it's running on just the battery anyway. Today I drove it for a while, parked and 10 minutes later went out to start it and nothing. Battery at 12.6v. all the power works, no clicking from the starter... just nothing, I messed with the 3 or 4 wires that go from the starter to the battery or close to it. Starts right up, turn it off it goes back to nothing. Wait about an hour and it will start up once and do the same thing. I'm so done with that God damn thing!!!
I figure the short has got to be in one of the wires from the starter to the battery. If I'm wrong please tell me. If anyone has a picture of their starter hooked up with all the wires I would love to see it. It just looks wrong, when me and my friend checked it before he put it back together. The bigger gauge power wire with the big metal L shape end is hanging off the side, and I can't tell which one is the power nut and negative nut cuz you can't see anything. PLEASE HELP ME BEFORE I GIVE THE DAMN THING AWAY!!!! thank you
I just so happen to have my starter out b/c I am doing something right now with the Xterra, anyhow the (power) nut on the solenoid is situated - highest (closest to top of engine/the right one in the pic) should be the only one hooked up with the "L shaped end." which comes from the battery itself. The other nut on the solenoid should have a wire from it to the actual starter motor. The ground is provided by the engine block. However, there is another wire from the solenoid with a harness on it that goes to the Park Neutral Position Relay (PNP/also on some called- clutch interlock relay - located in fuse box in engine passenger side) which then goes to the ignition switch (black/yellow wire). So if there is something wrong from the PNP to the starter's solenoid or even A bad solenoid; it can give you starter on/off issues.

As a side note, if your engine is just cutting off while driving and you are having issues with restarting, things like a bad crankshaft sensor can be the culprit (is your "check enegine" light on? do you have any codes?)...an issue with restarting after the engine is already hot, could also be the cam shaft sensor; which will start back up once engine is cold. Unfortunately the cam shaft sensor is part of the distributor.. :(...and on the distributor, the cap and rotor could have issues that can shut down an engine.......sorry man, we can on and on with "what ifs" and rabbit holes......just try to take them on, one rabbit hole at a time..

Quickest/Cheapest checks:
  • Check for codes
  • check all fuses on fuse box on driver side dash ( especially 12 and 13)
  • check connections on starter
  • Check cap and rotor for cracks/burned spots



77430
77431
77432
 

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maybe of help

 

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Discussion Starter · #34 ·
I just so happen to have my starter out b/c I am doing something right now with the Xterra, anyhow the (power) nut on the solenoid is situated - highest (closest to top of engine/the right one in the pic) should be the only one hooked up with the "L shaped end." which comes from the battery itself. The other nut on the solenoid should have a wire from it to the actual starter motor. The ground is provided by the engine block. However, there is another wire from the solenoid with a harness on it that goes to the Park Neutral Position Relay (PNP/also on some called- clutch interlock relay - located in fuse box in engine passenger side) which then goes to the ignition switch (black/yellow wire). So if there is something wrong from the PNP to the starter's solenoid or even A bad solenoid; it can give you starter on/off issues.

As a side note, if your engine is just cutting off while driving and you are having issues with restarting, things like a bad crankshaft sensor can be the culprit (is your "check enegine" light on? do you have any codes?)...an issue with restarting after the engine is already hot, could also be the cam shaft sensor; which will start back up once engine is cold. Unfortunately the cam shaft sensor is part of the distributor.. :(...and on the distributor, the cap and rotor could have issues that can shut down an engine.......sorry man, we can on and on with "what ifs" and rabbit holes......just try to take them on, one rabbit hole at a time..

Quickest/Cheapest checks:
  • Check for codes
  • check all fuses on fuse box on driver side dash ( especially 12 and 13)
  • check connections on starter
  • Check cap and rotor for cracks/burned spots



View attachment 77430 View attachment 77431 View attachment 77432
I know I said something about it a long time ago but my atp light is on, which is the pnp switch or relay. I didn't know that directly connected to the starter... I know it's only a few bolts but I've heard and seen its a pain in the ass to pull the entire thing. I've checked all the fuses, all good (except 11, meter fuse) checked the relay. Even got a new one I know for sure is good. I'll check the connections on the starter tonight or tomorrow, it's just hard to see up in there without pulling it. I've noticed if I can't get it to start, it's somewhere in or right around the fuse box under the hood that will get it to start. In my 01 there is the black/red wire (thinner gauge) that runs from the battery down into a connector right in front of the fuse box, then into the fuse box. Do you know what else that connects? Does the end of the black wire have that clamp looking end connected to the solenoid? All I can really feel is it coming out of the motor and seems to be connected but like I said I haven't pulled it.
 

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I know I said something about it a long time ago but my atp light is on, which is the pnp switch or relay. I didn't know that directly connected to the starter... I know it's only a few bolts but I've heard and seen its a pain in the ass to pull the entire thing. I've checked all the fuses, all good (except 11, meter fuse) checked the relay. Even got a new one I know for sure is good. I'll check the connections on the starter tonight or tomorrow, it's just hard to see up in there without pulling it. I've noticed if I can't get it to start, it's somewhere in or right around the fuse box under the hood that will get it to start. In my 01 there is the black/red wire (thinner gauge) that runs from the battery down into a connector right in front of the fuse box, then into the fuse box. Do you know what else that connects? Does the end of the black wire have that clamp looking end connected to the solenoid? All I can really feel is it coming out of the motor and seems to be connected but like I said I haven't pulled it.
don't know about the black/red wire you mean but you know you can pull up the small rubber flap in the passenger front wheel well and the starter is right there, you may need a small mirror to see further down in there....and like I said the L shaped connector is what attaches to the end of the solenoid.....as to pulling the starter, it really isn't that bad--two bolts (14mm) on the tranny bell housing (top one better to use and long extension and swivel adapter socket) and the nut on the solenoid to the power line (13mm)....the tranny lines may get in the way a bit but turn it a bit and should come out just fine
 

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Discussion Starter · #36 ·
Thanks again for all your help... if I run into something I'll probably come to you first... hope that's OK, you seem to know a hell of a lot about xterras when everyone else is vague about everything. As always appreciate your help. What are you working on with yours?
 

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Discussion Starter · #38 ·
This maybe a stupid question but I've never dealt with alternators except changing them out, I don't get how it recharges the battery when it's basically on a single 8 gauge looped wire that runs to 2 connectors on the opposite end of the car.
 

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I know I said something about it a long time ago but my atp light is on, which is the pnp switch or relay. I didn't know that directly connected to the starter... I know it's only a few bolts but I've heard and seen its a pain in the ass to pull the entire thing. I've checked all the fuses, all good (except 11, meter fuse) checked the relay. Even got a new one I know for sure is good. I'll check the connections on the starter tonight or tomorrow, it's just hard to see up in there without pulling it. I've noticed if I can't get it to start, it's somewhere in or right around the fuse box under the hood that will get it to start. In my 01 there is the black/red wire (thinner gauge) that runs from the battery down into a connector right in front of the fuse box, then into the fuse box. Do you know what else that connects? Does the end of the black wire have that clamp looking end connected to the solenoid? All I can really feel is it coming out of the motor and seems to be connected but like I said I haven't pulled it.
Additional reference:
Dec 2, 2007

From the manual:

Automatic transmission park
warning light ( model)
This light indicates that the automatic transmission
parking function is not engaged. If
the transfer control shift lever is not secured
in any drive position while the automatic
transmission selector lever is in the P (Park)
position, the vehicle may move unexpectedly.
Shift the transfer control shift lever into the
2H, 4H, or 4L position when the warning
light comes on.
When parking, always make sure that the
transfer control shift lever is in 2H, 4H, or
4L and the parking brake is set.
If the ATP light is ON, this indicates that
the automatic transmission P (Park) position
will not function and the transfer
control shift lever is in the N (Neutral)
position.
Failure to engage the transfer control shift
lever in 2H, 4H, or 4L could result in the
vehicle moving unexpectedly, resulting in
serious personal injury or property damage.
 
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