anybody relocate knock sensor and have you had any problems
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Yup, totally worth it, less than $20 takes 15 minutes.
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Dude, the link I provided above is Pigtail and Knock sensor from the Maxima. You need NOTHING more that what I provided above. Here it is again!
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B071HGN1RV/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B071HGN1RV/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
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Hey guys. I did a relocation last night. There was a sensor and harness on amazon, I think the same one pizzutoitalia posted above. Took 15 minutes and a trip to home depot for a longer M6 x 1.0 bolt. Cleared the code and voila. Haven't seen it since. Now just hoping the gas mileage gets back above 9.8.
My wire colors didnt quite match up to some of y'alls but using some common sense I figured it out. A good tip for those new to 12v wiring, if there is uninsulated wire wrapped around another insulated wire, the uninsulated wire is ground and the purpose of wrapping the + wire is to prevent EMI (electromagnetic interference). Also, for those with superchargers, I found the bolt location for the throttle cable holder is a great spot for KS relocation.
My wire colors didnt quite match up to some of y'alls but using some common sense I figured it out. A good tip for those new to 12v wiring, if there is uninsulated wire wrapped around another insulated wire, the uninsulated wire is ground and the purpose of wrapping the + wire is to prevent EMI (electromagnetic interference). Also, for those with superchargers, I found the bolt location for the throttle cable holder is a great spot for KS relocation.
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I got a P0328 code as well, N/A 3.3 here. I actually bought a genuine replacement Hitachi knock sensor in hopes of replacing mine, but after I saw how much work it would take I didn't think it would be worth it. I heard of the sensor relocation idea but how do I go about doing it, is there a write up? Can I use the pigtail in the kit pizzutoitalia posted with my sensor?
Hi
I have a 2004 Xe and have the had the K/S code pop up a few times but away with another code (air intake to high) (cat to low)
I'm plan to do the relocate and ordered the parts listed above, I have the parts but looking at the harness there is no 2nd (black wire) wire going into the plug for the new sensor,Does the sensor get ground from the bolt?
would like some feedback before I cut into wires
Thanks
I have a 2004 Xe and have the had the K/S code pop up a few times but away with another code (air intake to high) (cat to low)
I'm plan to do the relocate and ordered the parts listed above, I have the parts but looking at the harness there is no 2nd (black wire) wire going into the plug for the new sensor,Does the sensor get ground from the bolt?
would like some feedback before I cut into wires
Thanks
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33 Posts
Any one know where to find a complete diagram on how to do a Knock Sensor relocation, and the parts needed? thanks, 2002 Xterra 3.3
Is your engine Supercharged?
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No sir, i dont think so atleast. how would i know? Also, i removed the air filter box completly, the two left side hoses, the right side resonator(which is just hanging, bolt mount are broken, and the "2 wire" clamp the hold it to the air intake is cracked right in between the wires(is this a leak?)) and the bottom part of the air filter box. I cant seem to get the plastic pipe in the back thats up against the driver side fender to reconect. that box is loose. Now my xterra is running worse, when i shut it off, it shakes. I also adjusted the throttle body cables (cause there was slack in the gas pedal). Now the RPMS run about 1200, when they were 750-800RPM. plz help
If the large intake hose from the airbox to the throttle chamber is cracked that is part of the problem. Replace it it’s a $40 part and given the age of these trucks it’s becoming brittle.
Xterra’s came with three engine options
The 4 cylinder KA24 engine
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The V6 naturally aspirated VG33E
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And the V6 Supercharged VG33ER
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Xterra’s came with three engine options
The 4 cylinder KA24 engine
The V6 naturally aspirated VG33E
And the V6 Supercharged VG33ER
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33 Posts
Thanks. Yea, I got the V6 naturally aspirated VG33E, is there a way to "fix/Relocate" the Knock Sensor without having to take the engine apart?
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To those interested in doing this relocation here's an awesome video to show how. Beats the hell out of spending 8 hours to get it done.
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So i could use these parts in this video for my 2002 Nissan Xterra 3.3 NA? and is it recommended to relocate these things, ive heard different stories.
That video during the connecting of the wires, is kinda difficult to understand, as his camera skills are not da best. Iam not gonna do this anyways, ill just have it professionally done if I need the Timing chain worked on.
Thanks for the video though, very informative, besides what i mentioned....take care dude!
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5 Posts
I need to replace or preferably relocated my KS. I’ve seen the video but the wires that lead to the knock sensor does not match up on my 2000 xterra.
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We just did the relocation and followed the video to the T on our 2002 Xterra. The wires matched up perfectly but I thought there were 2 wires to splice in the loom. Turns out there is one wire for power and some fine metal strands that are the negative connection. We just twisted the bunch of strands together and connected them to the negative wire on the new harness. Bought the 99 Maxima harness and sensor listed in this thread, spliced the new harness in and installed the new sensor on top of the intake. Still had the knock sensor code come back after I cleared it. A lot of times Nissan/Infiniti vehicles don't play nice with aftermarket sensors so I bought an OEM knock sensor and swapped it with the generic one. Cleared the code again and it came right back on a short drive.
I cleared it one more time and we're going to put some miles on the truck hoping that the computer just needs time to see that it's working correctly and won't throw the code again. If not and the problem persists then the relocation didn't work for us, FML. The only other thing I can think of that's causing the problem is a faulty OEM harness so I'm in the process of trying to find out where it originates before it heads down into the depths of the motor. I'm not looking forward to tearing the top of the motor down to replace a stupid $40 sensor, that'll suck....
I cleared it one more time and we're going to put some miles on the truck hoping that the computer just needs time to see that it's working correctly and won't throw the code again. If not and the problem persists then the relocation didn't work for us, FML. The only other thing I can think of that's causing the problem is a faulty OEM harness so I'm in the process of trying to find out where it originates before it heads down into the depths of the motor. I'm not looking forward to tearing the top of the motor down to replace a stupid $40 sensor, that'll suck....
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BTW the truck has 140K miles.
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Can you by chance post some pics on where the wires are located?
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BTW the truck has 14
Just follow the video above, it's super easy to find them. On our 3.3 NA the wires are just to the left of the intake in a small rubber sheath. Be careful cutting into the sheath so you don't slice into the power wire and make sure you disconnect the battery before you do any work on the motor.
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