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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I have a VG33 in my 2004 xterra, and I snapped the alternator belt. I noticed there are 2 other belts in front of the alternator belt. Anyone have any tips or tricks? Am I taking all the belts off? Whats the degree of difficulty? Thanks in advance for your input!
 

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Yes, take the other two belts off first.
The outer two come off basically the same way. Locate the tensioner Pulley for the Outerbelt (AC). Loosen the bolt that goes straight through the pulley turn or two, Then with a socket and extension start loosening the bolt head That comes out of the bracket right behind that pulley. As you turn this bowl you will notice the belt is getting looser. Only need to go enough that you can slip of the belt off the pulley, and then do the same for the second bell which is power steering and water pump and uses a very similar tensioner
 

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I have a VG33 in my 2004 xterra, and I snapped the alternator belt. I noticed there are 2 other belts in front of the alternator belt. Anyone have any tips or tricks? Am I taking all the belts off? Whats the degree of difficulty? Thanks in advance for your input!
https://youtu.be/d7CjDBYiCjc
This guy does a pretty good job of explaining things when it comes to Nissan.

2002 XE 18" Street tires Curt Class 2 hitch Curt luggage basket Sent from my XT1254 using Tapatalk
 

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Follow up... after getting the two outer belts off, loosen the alternator bolts, and then turn the tensioner screw similar to the other two belts, except it is part of the alternator mount
many vehicles do this. just be glad you arent doing it on a 1st or 2nd gen amzda 3 as they used whats called a stretch belt for the ac compressor and you had to cut the old one off to change the main belt (the stretch belt went crank pulley to a/c compressor and thats it) everything else was on the main drive,well except power steering as it was an electric pump. to then put a new stretch belt on you had to put the main one on first hen fight through the middle of it to loosen the compressor mounting bolts and move the compressor slightly towards the crank being careful as the lines that attached to the compressor were steel and didnt flex much so too much and you break the rubber parts further up. that was more than a bitch trying to do that through the fender well and under the car on jacks and jack stands on my 08 3, when i got an 11 i just paid someone to do it as it was too much of a hassle. that 11 3 started having issues though (they were still using ford automatics and i couldnt find a manual one which is what i really wanted) so the tranny;s were pos's and burned the fluid fast mine started acting up so itraded it in before it was noticeable to someone that didnt drive it every day and got 75% of what i had paid for it the year and 18k miles earlier just trading it in to a car dealer on the x which other than the leaking rear axle seal problem that cost $1500 at Nissan to fix (said it needed whole new axles that came with bearing assemblies and seals already pressed on and a diff fluid service) but the dealer and nissan corporate both told me the seals were an updated part number and sent me a tsb to show they knew the issue and had a remedy which was whole new axle and bearing assemblies with a revised seal taht did have a different part number so im confident it wont happen again, but the forum seems to think its the diff vent clogging that causes this, sure enough mine was stuck closed so i got another for $11 from the dealer and all you need is a 14mm deep socket and wrench and 2 minutes to crawl under to change dont even need a jack. i plan to do this annually to prevent future vent issues
 

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“C” and “E” are in opposite positions, at least on my 2002 with 3.3 liter. Other than that diagram looks good
i believe that maybe the 90s pathfinder diagram but the routing other than those 2 are the same, finding the xterrra specific one is difficult anymore
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
“C” and “E” are in opposite positions, at least on my 2002 with 3.3 liter. Other than that diagram looks good
You are correct, however the tensioner location is what I needed, and the picture worked great.


On an unrelated note, After replacing 2 of the 3 belts, I now have a CEL, and its for O2 Sensor 2 Bank 2, and For Crankshaft sensor. I had no CEL issues before losing my alternator belt. Should I just proceed with replacing the sensors? Is this a coincidence? Any input at all will make me feel better.
 

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You are correct, however the tensioner location is what I needed, and the picture worked great.


On an unrelated note, After replacing 2 of the 3 belts, I now have a CEL, and its for O2 Sensor 2 Bank 2, and For Crankshaft sensor. I had no CEL issues before losing my alternator belt. Should I just proceed with replacing the sensors? Is this a coincidence? Any input at all will make me feel better.
Have you cleared them and run the truck just see what happens? Do they reappear after you put some miles on it?

2002 XE 18" Street tires Curt Class 2 hitch Curt luggage basket Sent from my XT1254 using Tapatalk
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
I have cleared the codes, they all returned, the O2 sensor Bank2 Sensor 2 is the first code that reappears, then after some time, the crankshaft code appears again. I have ordered the O2 sensor, and Ill start a new thread, as I'm still confused about what sensor bank2 sensor 2 is. I am guessing that its drive side, rear/bottom sensor. *Also, when monitoring that same O2 sensor with Torque and my OBDII adapter, the sensor works fine and gives good readings until the car heats up, once the car heats up, it just gets stuck at 1.3v, is this normal, will replacing the O2 sensor fix this? Why did it only start after breaking and changing alternator belt?
 

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Just changed all the belts on my son's Xterra, See the diagram above with the labels A - E?

The "tensioners" are the 2 pulleys without labels. You have to loosen up a bolt (just a little) that goes through the pulley, then there is another bolt above the pulley that adjusts the tension.

When you get the new belt on, tighten up the belt by turning the bolt on the tensioner- then tighten the bolt that goes through the pulley.
 
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