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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
I’ve been looking into the forums for different pieces of information regarding the lift options for a 1st gen. Some, if not most, of the information is out there, just all over the place.
This is an effort to consolidate the options, information, and links to the instructions, how-to’s, and parts purchasing.
Please offer any suggestions and corrections to the information that I may have gotten wrong.
Special thanks to all the guys who have helped guide and provide info. (TJTJ, SoccerBrace, drbandkgb etc.)
The format I will use is Lift type, quick description, materials needed (must have), possible concerns, nice to have materials (to address concerns), link to a DIY & links to purchase parts.

Images
A stock x:



With a PML





With a 3" SL and 1.5" wheel spacers



PML and BL



3" SL, BL, and 33's



PML, BL, Upper Control Arms, and 33's


Refer to the above pictures to decide which is right for you.

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Lift type
Body Lift (aka BL)

quick description
For the 1st gen a body lift of 2” is recommended, more than that begins to involve relocation of parts in the engine compartment (lines, radiator, etc).
The reason to get a BL is to be able to fit larger tires, as it lifts the body away from the tire itself, where as the SL still can only fit a certain size while the tire is “stuffed” or compressed.
The largest size that can fit with minimal cutting BEFORE a BL is a 32”x11.5 (depending on tread).
After a BL you are able to fit 33’s or larger.
Click Here for more info.

materials needed (must have)
  • 10 count 2”h x 3”w body pucks
  • Extended grade 8 bolts
    • (6) 7/16" x 6" x 14 (bolts) (the other 6 body mounts of the truck)
    • (6) 7/16" x 14 lock nuts
    • (12) 7/16" washers
    • (2) M12 x 1.25 x 180mm (bolts) (rear of truck by bumper going up)
    • (2) M10 x 1.25 x 160mm (bolts) (2nd to last body mount toward the rear bumper)
possible concerns/notes
  • Before purchasing aftermarket bumpers and sliders you should make the decision regarding getting a bodylift as they are made specifically for a BL or not. However you can get bumper relocation brackets for the front and rear bumper but not the sliders.
  • Some cutting of the area around the 4wd shifter may be needed.
  • Easily snapped lines (e.g. Heater core) if you are not careful to unclip all of them before the lift.
  • Be careful on the loosening and dropping of the steering shaft, make sure it is fully seated once loosened as part of the BL.
  • If immediately putting on larger tires then begin to look at reinforcing parts of the steering.
  • Post BL, none.
Nice to have materials (e.g. to take care of the concerns)
  • IAB – Idler arm brace. Reinforces a weak point in our trucks. (Total Chaos, Calmini, AC)
  • Reinforced TRA – helps reduce the chances of the current weak TRA bending on you if you take a hit offroad.
Link to DIY
$65 Body Lift: http://www.clubxterra.org/forums/showthread.php?t=2151.
How to install: http://www.clubxterra.org/forums/showthread.php?t=2191.


Links to purchase parts.
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Lift type
Poor Man’s Lift (aka PML)

quick description
A PML is a type of Suspension Lift (SL), that gives you a 1.5” lift without requiring additional hardware or changes.
It is termed PML because it requires very little in terms of extra gear and basically costs $65 to get this lift.
The lift is gained by adding shackles to the rear (replacing the stock shackles) and raising the torsion bars in the front.

materials needed (must have)
  • Larger shackles to provide the 1.5” lift in the rear
possible concerns/notes
  • you will need an alignment afterwards or you will wear out your tires faster.
    • per TJTJ
      1. Set the Camber to 0°, or as close to it as
      possible.

      2. Try for getting the Caster to be between 0.3° and
      0.6°, set differently between the right and left
      side, with the left side being less than the right.

      It doesn't matter what the Caster is, just as long as
      you get the most Caster you can on the right
      side, then set it so the left side is less by 0.3°
      to 0.6°

      Camber = 0.0°L.....0.0°R
      Caster = 0.9°L.....1.2°R
      Toe in = 0.08"L...0.08"R
      Total toe = ...0.16"
  • You *MUST* leave approx 0.5” space between the bumpstop and the UCA otherwise your ride will be rougher and you will wear out components faster.
  • Note: make sure to unclip and re-clip the brake lines to give them appropriate slack for new articulation/droop

Nice to have materials (e.g. to take care of the concerns)
  • upgraded shocks (for 3”lift) will allow for more articulation in the back.
  • IAB – Idler arm brace. Reinforces a weak point in our trucks.
  • Reinforced TRA – helps reduce the chances of the current weak TRA bending on you if you take a hit offroad.
link to a DIY
torsion bar indexing: http://www.clubxterra.org/forums/showthread.php?t=2600
reindexing: http://www.clubxterra.org/forums/showthread.php?t=2554
shackles: http://www.clubxterra.org/forums/showpost.php?p=194769&postcount=3

links to purchase parts

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Lift type
3” Suspension lift (SL)

quick description
3” suspension lift is created by finishing out the PML with additional parts to help you gain the lift. Doing a full SL raises you COG more than doing a PML and BL would otherwise (as you are raising the body and frame here up a full 3”)

materials needed (must have)
  • larger Shackles
  • Redesigned UCA (upper control arms)
  • AAL (add a leaf) or replacement leaf packs
possible concerns/notes
  • Lifting to the full 3” DOES NOT allow you to fit any larger tires than just having the PML, as anything that would hit while compressed with the PML will still hit/rub with the full SL.
  • driving it like it is not lifted 
  • steering components will wear out faster if not replaced with beefier pieces (usually due to larger tires and changed angles)
  • CV issues if fully drooped and pushing the vehicle. This is due to the angle change of the Diff. Putting in a Diff drop kit can help alleviate this.
Nice to have materials (e.g. to take care of the concerns)
  • Better/Longer shocks (e.g. bilsteins for the 3” lift). This will allow for the longer articulation(wheel travel), improve ride quality, handling, etc. And it can help with the higher COG.
  • Stiffer torsion bars up front can also help firm up the ride and allow for the added weight of armor you will eventually be adding.
  • Extensions for the front sway bar vertical links will take the stress and wear off the sway bar end links, and help improve the ride/flex.
  • Beefed up steering components, as noted before this is needed to stand up to the added stress of larger tires, changed angles etc.
  • Longer brake lines.
link to a DIY
UCA: http://www.clubxterra.org/forums/showthread.php?t=11604
AAL or pack: http://www.clubxterra.org/forums/showthread.php?t=5256&highlight=shackle
Shackles: http://www.clubxterra.org/forums/showpost.php?p=194769&postcount=3

links to purchase parts
 

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This is OUTSTANDING. REP!

Where do you find sway bar extensions and how much longer do the break lines need to be?
 

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Great Job !!
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Thanks guys.
My intention is to continue to update this as any new information is posted.

Things I know we need:
1) photos and step by step of a Shackle install
2) length of brake lines for the 3" SL
3) length of sway bar extenders and where to purchase/how to make
4) specs for a full leaf pack replacement for the 3" lift
 
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Awesome job! Rep

Just two things I would add to your awesome writeup:

1. posting the difference between indexing and re-indexing

2. posting alignment specs for the PML and 3" SL. I would have saved some money had I known about this when I did mine.

http://www.clubxterra.org/forums/showthread.php?t=18738
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Thanks man -
I added the alignment specs.
Do you know of a good explanation between indexing and re-indexing?

Thanks.

Awesome job! Rep

Just two things I would add to your awesome writeup:

1. posting the difference between indexing and re-indexing

2. posting alignment specs for the PML and 3" SL. I would have saved some money had I known about this when I did mine.

http://www.clubxterra.org/forums/showthread.php?t=18738
 

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Nice work! Rep points given!
 

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thanks dude...I have been on Drake on getting something like this for everyone. That way we dont have 20 million question about the same subject.

Admins please sticky :D
 

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I thought SLR wasn't around anymore...
 

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Discussion Starter #12
@Nd4SpdSe - he is still around, just not the full business like it used to be.
I just got all my steering and lift parts for the front from him.
 

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Nice man! Rep given. I'm glad someone took the time to pool all this knowledge together. Thanks!

Chuck
 

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tagger for the links
 

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Not sure where to post this... I can't lower my rear axle low enough to get my longer shackles on... I have the truck on stands. and the axle dropped as low as it can go... Maybe take off the shock? I think that is what is holding it up.

Anyone ever run across this before?
 

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Not sure where to post this... I can't lower my rear axle low enough to get my longer shackles on... I have the truck on stands. and the axle dropped as low as it can go... Maybe take off the shock? I think that is what is holding it up.

Anyone ever run across this before?
Are the tires touching the ground?
 

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I do have rear axle supported by a jack. Here are some pics. Gonna be a b to get the shocks off. Can't get them loose. Don't want to bang on them too hard I gotta get them back on.

Passenger side:


Driver side:

 
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