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2001 se 4x4 5spd 32"
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I realized that last night! Seems like a good way to confuse the product you need with one that wont work.
This is a real problem, I got 3 sets of seals in a row that were the wrong ones.

I feel like I possibly have narrowed down my problem having friction or drag on my passenger front. But I'm not entirely sure where to go from there if that is the problem. When I take my wheel off to get to caliper and pads, if i take my caliper and pads off, spin everything and it spins fine with no drag or friction then I know its caliper and pads. But if I remove caliper and pads and spun everything and it still has friction or drag would I then need to be looking at the hub and internals?
Yes.
Narrow it down to the calipers and pads or to the wheel bearings and the hub.


Also if I take my caliper and pads off, will I still be able to put them all back on the rotor? Or should I not do that unless I'm replacing them? I just dont want to get it all apart to realize I have to install new ones to get it all back together. Because I have not ordered new ones and dont plan on doing so until I know that's what I need or not. And thanks again for everybody's help and input. I really appreciate it. And I know my X does too.
I just replaced the wheel bearings so I had my caliper and pads off. I just put them back on again and they are fine. So no need to replace unless they are worn out or damaged.
 

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2001 Xterra 4WD Auto 3.3L NA V6
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779 Posts
I realized that last night! Seems like a good way to confuse the product you need with one that wont work. Good marketing strategy? Lol anyway so from all the research I have been doing on these forums and google, I feel like I possibly have narrowed down my problem having friction or drag on my passenger front. But I'm not entirely sure where to go from there if that is the problem. When I take my wheel off to get to caliper and pads, if i take my caliper and pads off, spin everything and it spins fine with no drag or friction then I know its caliper and pads. But if I remove caliper and pads and spun everything and it still has friction or drag would I then need to be looking at the hub and internals? Also if I take my caliper and pads off, will I still be able to put them all back on the rotor? Or should I not do that unless I'm replacing them? I just dont want to get it all apart to realize I have to install new ones to get it all back together. Because I have not ordered new ones and dont plan on doing so until I know that's what I need or not. And thanks again for everybody's help and input. I really appreciate it. And I know my X does too.
You can remove the caliper and pads, and even the rotor is you wish, then put them all back on the rig without having to buy or install new ones.

The only caveat I see to that is if one or more of the components actually needs replaced. In that case, you can still replace just that part and install the rest. However, the general rule of thumb is to do brakes in pairs.
 

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2001 Red Xterra SE 6.6 4x4 Automatic I call him Ol Red
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63 Posts
Discussion Starter #43
You guys are awesome! Thank you so much for the help. I set aside some time tomorrow to take that wheel off and check that caliper. I'm really hopeful this is the problem. I will post pictures of what I find so everyone can see what I see incase someone sees something I dont.
 

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2000 Xterra XE 4x4 3.3L AT
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Really just need to pull the wheel, then pull the pads. Really what you are going to be checking are slide pins to see if they are working and free also if the pistons are free and returning on the calipers
 

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2001 Red Xterra SE 6.6 4x4 Automatic I call him Ol Red
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63 Posts
Discussion Starter #45
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Well I think it's pretty obvious I need new pads lol rotor spins free with pads out. Pistons seem to be in working order. Put pads back in and spun the rotor and could hear them lightly scraping. Heck I could feel the friction as soon as I did. New pads be getting ordered soon! Took Red for a 20 minute drive after to make sure everything still handles the same. Only found 1 difference and that seems to be only when braking. It really pulls to the right. Should I drain and refill my brake fluid when I do the pads? Or just top it off if I needs it? And this may be a dumb question and if it is I apologize but does my engine need to be running to bleed the brake lines? Or can I just do it without even putting keys in the ignition? Idk if having the engine running creates a vacuum or pressure that I need to have while bleeding them or if it's all just related to pressing/depressing the brake pedal.
 

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2001 Xterra 4WD Auto 3.3L NA V6
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779 Posts
Disc brakes will always drag a bit.

You can bleed or flush them all by yourself with a manual vacuum pump and fluid-capture container. You can find a kit at Harbor Freight or elsewhere. My HF kit came with a metal pump!

I flushed my other car with 4-wheel disc brakes alone a couple years ago. It was easy. The hardest part was lifting the car to take the wheels off, one at a time, since the car is low-slung, plus it's lowered another 1.4 inches. Heck, even my low-profile racing (aka aluminum) jack scrapes just getting under it!

With the Xterra's massive ground clearance, you should be able to turn the front wheels to aid access to the bleeder and easily reach the rear ones.

Flushing every 3-5 years will help remove the fluid that has absorbed moisture during that time. ABS is more sensitive to moisture than non-ABS systems. Just don't let the master cylinder go dry!
 

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2001 Red Xterra SE 6.6 4x4 Automatic I call him Ol Red
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63 Posts
Discussion Starter #47
Disc brakes will always drag a bit.

You can bleed or flush them all by yourself with a manual vacuum pump and fluid-capture container. You can find a kit at Harbor Freight or elsewhere. My HF kit came with a metal pump!

I flushed my other car with 4-wheel disc brakes alone a couple years ago. It was easy. The hardest part was lifting the car to take the wheels off, one at a time, since the car is low-slung, plus it's lowered another 1.4 inches. Heck, even my low-profile racing (aka aluminum) jack scrapes just getting under it!

With the Xterra's massive ground clearance, you should be able to turn the front wheels to aid access to the bleeder and easily reach the rear ones.

Flushing every 3-5 years will help remove the fluid that has absorbed moisture during that time. ABS is more sensitive to moisture than non-ABS systems. Just don't let the master cylinder go dry!


Heck yeah! Thanks a bunch man! I'm gunna get these pads ordered here in a few minutes and I'll just go ahead and look into Harbor Freight kits as well! I think I'm going to go ahead and drain and refill my break fluid. And yes!!!! That is the best advice that could be given to me!!! Thank you so much! I've never messed with break fluid stuff before. Never would have known that about the master cylinder! Very much appreciate that info!
 

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UPDATE: 3/22

Finally got my truck back today. After I had to wait for a part, they then called and informed me that it was the wrong part and not what was ordered. I was given this with no explanation as no techs were available to answer questions. After taking my X for a 30 minute drive I think it was a little convenient that no techs were available, however it does drive better. But I do have questions. Maybe someone here can explain what I'm looking at and possibly answer my questions.

View attachment 76741

Also it says a different tire size than what I actually have on my X.
Thats the tollerancesgreen os ok red isnt but just because it says it's within spec/tollerance doesnt really mean dick because it.can still pull as bad if not worse then before. Pep boys did my alignment once he got everything in the green didnt even test drive it . i made it a half of a block lifted my hand to re-adjust. My mirror and it pulled so hard to the right it about put me into a wall. I went back ready to kill someone and he shows me this chart i said yes the conputer shows thats its in spec/in the green but aparently your on the wrong side of the tolerance you need to fine tune it dude your way offyouve got a 1/4-1/2 in of adjistment looning at the width of the green band and 1/10 can be significant anyway it took him 3 hours when it was done one side moved all the way to tbe other side and the other closer to the middle as i recall , after that it would drive itself. The tech was amazed it was the first time he had to tweak it to get it right , that was surprising to me but ......he rose to the challenge . sorry didn't men to go off on a tangent lol...just tonight is share that exeriance bottom line some vehichles aint happy jusg beign in the green they demand beign right on t he money
 

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2001 Red Xterra SE 6.6 4x4 Automatic I call him Ol Red
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63 Posts
Discussion Starter #50
Thats the tollerancesgreen os ok red isnt but just because it says it's within spec/tollerance doesnt really mean dick because it.can still pull as bad if not worse then before. Pep boys did my alignment once he got everything in the green didnt even test drive it . i made it a half of a block lifted my hand to re-adjust. My mirror and it pulled so hard to the right it about put me into a wall. I went back ready to kill someone and he shows me this chart i said yes the conputer shows thats its in spec/in the green but aparently your on the wrong side of the tolerance you need to fine tune it dude your way offyouve got a 1/4-1/2 in of adjistment looning at the width of the green band and 1/10 can be significant anyway it took him 3 hours when it was done one side moved all the way to tbe other side and the other closer to the middle as i recall , after that it would drive itself. The tech was amazed it was the first time he had to tweak it to get it right , that was surprising to me but ......he rose to the challenge . sorry didn't men to go off on a tangent lol...just tonight is share that exeriance bottom line some vehichles aint happy jusg beign in the green they demand beign right on t he money

I can dig it!
 

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2001 Red Xterra SE 6.6 4x4 Automatic I call him Ol Red
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63 Posts
Discussion Starter #51
UPDATE: 4/10

New pads installed effortlessly. Hardest part was opening the drivers front bleeder. That thing was a pain! But I got it and finished bleeding the lines. Now my X only pulls slightly to the right. Ever so slightly. Barely even noticeable. My brakes are alot better too! Day and night difference! I was so used to having to push my pedal pretty much to the floor that when I came to my first stop sign I pushed my pedal like normal and wow I came to a stop well before I anticipated to be stopped. I recommend a piston tool though. I use a wood block and c clamp but I totally recommend getting the tool for it.
 
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