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Bought this 2008 X 2 weeks ago, I know they are not the best for efficiency but 8-9 MPG is quite shocking. My 2003 gets 14 to 16....
The skinny, it's a 4.0, 4X4 with 202000+ on it. The engine, tranny and everything about it looks mint, not a drop of oil of any kind... Changed plugs, air filter, cleaned MAS, cleaned throttle body. Found out the fuel filter is in the tank, fine place to put a filter so have not gone there yet, another thread. What else can I look at to figure why the MPG sucks. I've researched and came up with timing. How do you check the timing, there is no plug wires to hook up the induction light, this is new to me.
Assuming your 2003 is a 4 cyl?
 

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I think he's referring to your reference of your 2003 that gets 14-16 MPG.

I'd assume that with that fuel usage it would be a 6 cylinder as the 4 cylinders get better consumption than that. My 2.4L Frontier will easily hit 22 - 24 MPG on the highway and 19 MPG city. It doesn't weigh quite as much, but it has a canopy and typically has a bunch of crap in the back.

You need to hook up to a OBDII reader and monitor what's happening while it's running and while it's driving. O2 sensor voltages etc will all provide clues as to what's going on, but you need to take the time to learn and understand what they mean. Otherwise you should take it to shop for them to at least diagnose what's going on. There are times that a professional is required.
 

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Discussion Starter · #24 ·
I think he's referring to your reference of your 2003 that gets 14-16 MPG.

I'd assume that with that fuel usage it would be a 6 cylinder as the 4 cylinders get better consumption than that. My 2.4L Frontier will easily hit 22 - 24 MPG on the highway and 19 MPG city. It doesn't weigh quite as much, but it has a canopy and typically has a bunch of crap in the back.

You need to hook up to a OBDII reader and monitor what's happening while it's running and while it's driving. O2 sensor voltages etc will all provide clues as to what's going on, but you need to take the time to learn and understand what they mean. Otherwise you should take it to shop for them to at least diagnose what's going on. There are times that a professional is required.
I agree, this is one of those times to take it to a shop... can you recommend a good OBDII that would do this. If I'm going to fork out 100-150 bux at a shop I may as well use that to buy my own tool!?!?!?
 

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It's been a while since I checked my MPG on my 2003 6 cyl, but the last time I did it I was getting about 17-19 MPG combined. That was when I bought it a few years back with 68k on the odometer.

The two OBD readers that I would recommend are the Bluedriver and the OBDLINK MX+. They cost the same. I don't have personal experience with Bluedriver, but a lot of guys on here use them and love them. I use the OBDLINK MX+. I chose it of the Bluedriver for a couple of reasons.

1) I previously had the OBDLINK LX and liked it, though it only has the basic codes.
2) OBDLINK has an easy to use App, but is also compatible with aftermarket apps should you prefer one. Bluedriver is only compatible with it's proprietary app. I felt that should the worst happen and the company go under I would still be able to use my OBDLINK with another app. Please note that this is unlikely in both cases as they are strong companies and both very popular.
3) All of the vehicles that I have with the exception of my gen 1 Xterra and Frontier are listed for the advanced code reading. They are not listed for either of the readers. It's an age thing.

Before buying, double check that your vehicle is listed in their compatibility charts for what you need it for. All basic codes will be readable on both units, but for ABS and airbags etc you will need to check. These can be found on their websites, or you can always try calling their customer service numbers if you have the urge to be put on ignore and listen to the musical stylings of Kenny G for a half hour. 🎶🎷:D
 
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Discussion Starter · #28 ·
It's been a while since I checked my MPG on my 2003 6 cyl, but the last time I did it I was getting about 17-19 MPG combined. That was when I bought it a few years back with 68k on the odometer.

The two OBD readers that I would recommend are the Bluedriver and the OBDLINK MX+. They cost the same. I don't have personal experience with Bluedriver, but a lot of guys on here use them and love them. I use the OBDLINK MX+. I chose it of the Bluedriver for a couple of reasons.

1) I previously had the OBDLINK LX and liked it, though it only has the basic codes.
2) OBDLINK has an easy to use App, but is also compatible with aftermarket apps should you prefer one. Bluedriver is only compatible with it's proprietary app. I felt that should the worst happen and the company go under I would still be able to use my OBDLINK with another app. Please note that this is unlikely in both cases as they are strong companies and both very popular.
3) All of the vehicles that I have with the exception of my gen 1 Xterra and Frontier are listed for the advanced code reading. They are not listed for either of the readers. It's an age thing.

Before buying, double check that your vehicle is listed in their compatibility charts for what you need it for. All basic codes will be readable on both units, but for ABS and airbags etc you will need to check. These can be found on their websites, or you can always try calling their customer service numbers if you have the urge to be put on ignore and listen to the musical stylings of Kenny G for a half hour. 🎶🎷:D
I'm looking for one that will do SRS, ABS, Transmission... I have a couple that do the basic when CEL is on and can clear the code.. I've been researching, a bunch out there, they all have their quirks from the reviews I've been checking, most are rated at 60%, not good odds for a couple hundred bux... :unsure:
 

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Enhanced diagnostics on either the Bluedriver or the OBDLINK MX+ should be fully functional for your Xterra according to their literature. As stated, I only have experience with the OBDLINK MX+, but there are plenty of people here that use the Bluedriver an perhaps one of them will chime in as to it's functionality with the gen2 Xterra.

Both get 4.6 to 4.7 out of 5 stars on Amazon. The OBDLINK is currently $20 more than the Bluedriver.
 

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Not sure about the OBDLink, but the BlueDriver has a feature called Mode 6. According to a buddy on another forum whom I trust:
It gives you access to all the raw data that goes into the car's monitoring and self test routines. It gives the normal range and values. It flags a fail on items that are out of spec but might not be tossing a code. It's sort of like SMART data on a hard drive/SSD if you dabble in that.
I haven't used it yet, but I have the today off, so guess what I'm gonna experiment with?
 

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Not sure about the OBDLink, but the BlueDriver has a feature called Mode 6. According to a buddy on another forum whom I trust:


I haven't used it yet, but I have the today off, so guess what I'm gonna experiment with?
The Mode 6 on the BlueDriver was the selling point for me. Have used that mode 6 multiple times and it's nice you can select which parameters you want to monitor live so you don't just get a standard set all the time. Good way to focus on a single screen display what you want see without a bunch of scrolling. Price went up $20 since I bought it at $99 not all that long ago. Satito, I don't see any reference to mode 6 in the OBDlink MX+ write up on their official site. Do you see that feature on your version of the MX?
 

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Discussion Starter · #32 · (Edited)
Update: After doing some testing I figured it may be a bad cat or 2 or 3 or 4. I pulled the rear O2 sensors on both sides then stuffed my camera in the hole to look at the front and rear cats, they all looked brand new. So I narrowed it down to the front air/fuel ratio sensors. After doing some research the fronts are A/F sensors and the rears are O2 sensors, much different and testing them is not the same. Just because there is not CEL does not mean it is not weak. I could not find anything on how to test the A/F sensors only the O2. So I ordered a set of A/F sensors, they will be here tuesday, I'll put them in and see if there is a change... Any Thoughts??
 

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I use the fuel injection active test on the consult to test these. It allows me to add or subtract up to 25% fuel (75-125%) and I can watch the A/F sensors and o2 sensors respond. Don’t listen when people tell you that the rear sensors are just for monitoring the catalytic converters. Not true on this vehicle.
 

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Discussion Starter · #34 ·
I use the fuel injection active test on the consult to test these. It allows me to add or subtract up to 25% fuel (75-125%) and I can watch the A/F sensors and o2 sensors respond. Don’t listen when people tell you that the rear sensors are just for monitoring the catalytic converters. Not true on this vehicle.
you need both for the ECU to function correctly. I figure I'll start with the front A/F sensors, beats what they want to charge at a shop, I can buy 2 for what they want to analyze...The voltages on the fronts were between .6 and .8 which I believe is to much...
 

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you need both for the ECU to function correctly. I figure I'll start with the front A/F sensors, beats what they want to charge at a shop, I can buy 2 for what they want to analyze...The voltages on the fronts were between .6 and .8 which I believe is to much...
Here's a good read from a detailed article on OBD2 Mode 6:
"Here’s another fact of Mode $06: Even if a sensor is functioning within the established limits for a particular CID test, you can’t always assume the sensor is functioning normally. If it is near the upper or lower limit of the acceptable test range, it may be enough to cause a noticeable driveability or emissions problem.
For example, say one of the oxygen sensors is lazy or is biased rich or lean. It may not be bad enough to fail its CID tests, but it might be sluggish or biased enough to throw off the air/fuel mixture, resulting in a loss of fuel economy, poor throttle response or an engine misfire.
That’s why you need to look closely at the CID test results for that sensor in Mode $06 so you can see how close the sensor is operating to its upper and lower limits. If the test results are just within the limits, it would tell you the sensor is probably causing a problem and will soon fail. Time to replace it with a new one."
 

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Discussion Starter · #36 ·
Here's a good read from a detailed article on OBD2 Mode 6:
"Here’s another fact of Mode $06: Even if a sensor is functioning within the established limits for a particular CID test, you can’t always assume the sensor is functioning normally. If it is near the upper or lower limit of the acceptable test range, it may be enough to cause a noticeable driveability or emissions problem.
For example, say one of the oxygen sensors is lazy or is biased rich or lean. It may not be bad enough to fail its CID tests, but it might be sluggish or biased enough to throw off the air/fuel mixture, resulting in a loss of fuel economy, poor throttle response or an engine misfire.
That’s why you need to look closely at the CID test results for that sensor in Mode $06 so you can see how close the sensor is operating to its upper and lower limits. If the test results are just within the limits, it would tell you the sensor is probably causing a problem and will soon fail. Time to replace it with a new one."
that was a good eye opener, this told me a lot to look for
The Mode 6 on the BlueDriver was the selling point for me. Have used that mode 6 multiple times and it's nice you can select which parameters you want to monitor live so you don't just get a standard set all the time. Good way to focus on a single screen display what you want see without a bunch of scrolling. Price went up $20 since I bought it at $99 not all that long ago. Satito, I don't see any reference to mode 6 in the OBDlink MX+ write up on their official site. Do you see that feature on your version of the MX?
I just checked out the Bluedriver, this is what I'm looking for, it does ABS, SRS, TPMS, and airbag errors, plus the live data...
 

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that was a good eye opener, this told me a lot to look for

I just checked out the Bluedriver, this is what I'm looking for, it does ABS, SRS, TPMS, and airbag errors, plus the live data...
I find it to be a good product. There is a lot to like about it. Sure is a lot easier to travel with vs bringing along a big bulky hand held scanner, in a case no less!
 

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Discussion Starter · #38 ·
I find it to be a good product. There is a lot to like about it. Sure is a lot easier to travel with vs bringing along a big bulky hand held scanner, in a case no less!
I have a ELM 327 works great for finding codes and clearing them thats about, will not do ABS, Air bags or Tranny.... Blue Driver is a free app I take it??
 

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OBD LINK also offers Mode $06. Basically Bluedriver and OBDLINK MX+ offer the same features with the exception that OBDLINK also allows the use of aftermarket software and apps. I have noticed that the price of the OBDLINK MX+ recently went up to $139, so at the moment Bluedriver has a better pricepoint, though with markets and supply chain as they are that could change very soon.

Both are very good units, but keep in mind that neither of these units will read advanced codes such as ABS etc on a gen1. Both should be fully functional on a gen2.
 
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