There should be a number of decent video tutorials on YouTube. Watch them and familiarize yourself with the procedures. If you still don't feel comfortable doing it, get a professional, but here are a few helpful tips.
Here is the link for the Factory Service Manual.
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Download all of the files to a single folder. Open the idx file using Acrobat reader (not a web browser). Opening in Adobe Acrobat reader will allow you to click on the item you want to see and will automatically open the section and page you clicked. This makes life much easier.
Very few specialty tools will be needed if it's a straight removal and reinstall. If a specialty tool is needed you should check with your local Pepboys or Autozone etc. as most franchise stores will have a tool loan program. You pay a deposit (the price of the tool) and they refund it when you return the tool (Do not lose your receipt).
1) Don't re-use any of the gaskets. Buy new ones.
2) Don't use RTV on any of the gaskets. It just makes a mess and makes it way harder the next time you're in there because you will have to remove it. The gaskets are designed to go in dry.
3) DO use torque wrenches. You will need both a ft-lb and an inch-lb torque wrench. Pay close attention to whether it's supposed to be in ft-lb or inch-lb as using the wrong units may result in stripped bolt holes and/or broken parts.
4) Take your time. Research the process fully and watch the videos several times before you start taking things apart.
5) use a sharpie to number both sides of each wire connection. 1 and 1, 2 and 2 etc. This will make your life a million times easier when it comes time to button things back up.
6) Be very gently with your wire harness. It is 15 to 16 years old and has spent it's life in a very hot and harsh environment. Bending it harshly will often result in breaks in the wires and it is a major pain to find a short in the harness. (I actually went over my entire harness with a full double wrap of electrical tape to refresh the old crumbling tape. This also gives the harness case a little more support.
7) When you put things back together be sure to put a dab of dielectric grease on the pins of each connector. This will help prevent corrosion.
8) There are a few "while you're in there" items. While you are in there inspect all the coolant hoses under the manifold. Replace any that look questionable. Re-use the spring clamps if they are still there. The worm drive clamps WILL leak after a bunch of heating and cooling cycles and the only way to retighten them is to take everything apart again. The spring clamps are designed to expand and contract and always be tight. You may want to replace the knock sensor (they go bad frequently). You should take this opportunity to replace the bypass hose (It's an elbow) that goes to the thermostat housing. It's relatively inexpensive, but if it blows you'll just be taking everything apart again to get to it.
I'll add more as I think of stuff and I'm sure some of the other guys will chime in.