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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
The shop I took it to got one bolt out, then stripped the second and then refused to move forward on it. They didn't want to try a bolt remover (EZ Out or similar) fearing the potential of sheering the heads off as this has happened to them in the past.

I'm in the LA area, looking for a solution.

My valve cover gasket is LEAKING! (I know, you're all surprised by that)

Cost is also an issue. There's 220,000 mile on it, so may not be worth throwing too much more money at it.

Any help / suggestions would be appreciated!

THANK YOU!!!
 

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2015 Xterra Pro-4X
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The shop I took it to got one bolt out, then stripped the second and then refused to move forward on it. They didn't want to try a bolt remover (EZ Out or similar) fearing the potential of sheering the heads off as this has happened to them in the past.

I'm in the LA area, looking for a solution.

My valve cover gasket is LEAKING! (I know, you're all surprised by that)

Cost is also an issue. There's 220,000 mile on it, so may not be worth throwing too much more money at it.

Any help / suggestions would be appreciated!

THANK YOU!!!
Sounds like a great job application for one of the most useful modern tools known as a impact driver/drill. Can be found in many brand names and price points. The key is it turns the driver bit left or right per your selection and applies a hammering/impact pulse down on the fastener being worked on, keeping the driver bit in good contact with the fastener and jarring the fastener with mechanical pulses that can assist in breaking the argumentative screw or bolt loose. These tools are well worth any level of investment because they will keep on being useful for many things you may encounter.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Sounds like a great job application for one of the most useful modern tools known as a impact driver/drill. Can be found in many brand names and price points. The key is it turns the driver bit left or right per your selection and applies a hammering/impact pulse down on the fastener being worked on, keeping the driver bit in good contact with the fastener and jarring the fastener with mechanical pulses that can assist in breaking the argumentative screw or bolt loose. These tools are well worth any level of investment because they will keep on being useful for many things you may encounter.
This shop has impact drivers, etc, the concern is shearing off the bolts in the process.
 

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03 XE AT w/JDM VG + SC, AC UCA & BL
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Cost is also an issue. There's 220,000 mile on it, so may not be worth throwing too much more money at it.

Any help / suggestions would be appreciated
ill see if I can help. You can’t fix it. They cant fix it. You need to find a new “they” or your car needs to find a new “you”. Call around but everyone is probably going to want to see it
 

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Yep. It's not that they can't fix it. It's that they only want to do the easier jobs. Removing a broken bolt can be a major pain, but then that's part of the job description. Interesting enough, what ever mechanic worked on my X before it was mine changed out the intake manifold allen bolts for hex cap bolts.

For those that do their own wrenching. If a bolt won't come out/undone. Try turning it the other direction a little. Working it back and forth helps to break up any corrosion, but also helps prevent binding due to any dirt or corrosion that is in there. I never just straight back out a bolt all the way if it's been there a long time. It's great way to gall or bind the threads. If the heads snap off, there are a few methods for removing the stuck threaded parts. One of my favorite is to coat the surrounding surface with cooking spray or oil (don't get it on the broken bolt. Then use a mig welder to build up the stub enough that I can place a nut over it. Then weld the center of the nut to the stub and fill the nut with weld. It's important to not overheat things as aluminum does have a lower melting point than steel. Let things cool. Pop a wrench on there and work it back and forth a bit until things start moving. The cooking spray or oil is to prevent any sparking steel from marring the surface of the aluminum (or welding to the surface if it's steel). The heat from the welding helps to break up corrosion due to the different expansion rates of the steel bolt and aluminum.
 

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2004 Xterra XE 4WD Auto 3.3L NA V6
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For a long time, I've thought that there should be 3 heads: 1/4" square, 1/2" square, and 3/4" square. Just stick your extension in there and let 'er rip.

I like @Satito's suggestions on how to remove them. I don't do as much wrenching as I used to, even on my own stuff, but when I do, I like learning about and using smart ideas like his.
 

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Definitely need to be careful when welding though. And of course true MIG with gas is the way to go. Flux core tends to send too many little bits of steel flying and you end up with little BB's everywhere.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
I'm going to start the process of finding another shop to take it to. It does look like there's solutions to the problems. If anyone has a shop they'd recommend in the LA area, that'd be appreciated!
 

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Did they strip the bolt on the valve cover, and is it the driver side or passenger side.
The shop I took it to got one bolt out, then stripped the second and then refused to move forward on it. They didn't want to try a bolt remover (EZ Out or similar) fearing the potential of sheering the heads off as this has happened to them in the past.

I'm in the LA area, looking for a solution.

My valve cover gasket is LEAKING! (I know, you're all surprised by that)

Cost is also an issue. There's 220,000 mile on it, so may not be worth throwing too much more money at it.

Any help / suggestions would be appreciated!

THANK YOU!!!
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
I used die hard deepwell bolt extractor form advanced auto on my 2003 xterra intake bolts. Took all of them out after the 6mm allen key stripped them
The concern about doing this was if they sheared off one of the bolt heads it'd require sending it to a machine shop to be drilled out and the expense in that would be too great.
 

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The bolts that hold the plenum on thread into the lower intake. You can buy those lower manifolds on eBay for $100 all day. I think you’re making too big of a deal here. Get the screw extractors that were mentioned and get yourself some new bolts and replace the bolts one by one. Once they’re all new and won’t cause a problem coming out then take it back to the shop and have them do whatever they couldn’t do the first time. If you’re not going to try to fix it or try to take it somewhere else then I’m sorry I’m still talking about this.
 

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If you do sheer off a bolt and have to extract the stubs, you may want to get an appropriate sized thread chaser to clean the threads up a little before putting the new bolts in.
 

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The shop I took it to got one bolt out, then stripped the second and then refused to move forward on it. They didn't want to try a bolt remover (EZ Out or similar) fearing the potential of sheering the heads off as this has happened to them in the past.

I'm in the LA area, looking for a solution.

My valve cover gasket is LEAKING! (I know, you're all surprised by that)

Cost is also an issue. There's 220,000 mile on it, so may not be worth throwing too much more money at it.

Any help / suggestions would be appreciated!

THANK YOU!!!
Relax. I have 325k on my 08. And have stripped or broken several intake manifold bolts as well as a few valve cover bolts. There not that hard to do yourself. Important to get in a good lighted area in garage. Take hood off 4 bolts easy to do. Then depending which bolts your gona replace make sure you have them on hand. I got mine from the dealer and ordered them ahead of time and purchased extra which I ended up needing as I broke one when I torqued the plenum. Make sure you have a good torque wrench a dial clicking wrench was the best easiest for me and I rented it from Orielys for a Critter and that was refundable.. it was brand new. Just make sure you know how to use it abd practice on some bolts on your fender or somewhere not so close to intake. Next take the plenum off to see if your bolts are broken of flush. If they are sticking up you can use a small vise grip and get a good grip on it and turn it slowly off remember on these nissans it the first little snap that gets them going so make sure to get a good grip on it as well as plugging up the intake holes . Six old socks works well and you will feel like a surgeon. Joking but very important to plug and to count the socks before starting when done. Now if there flush I found it easier to drill a hole into the bolts with the plenum on I used a bit I purchased at Lowes that came with a easy out that found quite easy to use. I also cut the end of a old dried out vacum hose that I used as a guide to keep the bit centered when I drilled the old bolt out. The next and important step for me was to get comfortable on top of the engine compartment without damaging anything I ended up running a piece of plywood across compartment and from radiator suport(not top of radiator) and to the two bolt holes for the plastic engine cover and crosswise to the fender lips on the side. Well the rest is up to you just plan half a day on it take your time and jeep your beast on the road.I have come to realize the same thing as you are seeing in that at high milage these cars will break and will cost you a lot to fix and usually by someone who doesn't no what there doing. And cost you more then cars worth. Do it yourself and have fun with it. I get a kick out of it when people see the milage on mine.
 

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Also make sure that you are using an inch/pound torque wrench when required and not a foot/pound. Ask me how I know... Go ahead... ASK ME!!!! :ROFLMAO:

But seriously. Using a foot/pound by accident WILL result in snapped bolts and or broken aluminum parts (Made that mistake on an aluminum thermostat housing in college before I knew better. Experience is a great teacher)
 

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You are right about that I experienced the problem with torque wrenching and that's why I shared the "now how to use it part:My xterra has been a trial and error vehicle since I bought it. Grabing a Hayes or Chilton book and reading it has always been the first thing I do when I get a car. It can be helpful and sometimes a curse but it's the way I roll and most every one of my vehicles have rolled over 300k.
 
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