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Discussion Starter #1
My X has developed some overheating issues as of recent, I knew the radiator had a hole in it for awhile, just hadn't had the money to buy a new one until past week or so, so I replaced it finally, still overheating, repleaced thermostat still doing it. Had the fan clutch and pump checked and thry both are fine, Noticed a leak coming from under the hood from the heater core hose so for the time being I bypassed it (ordered a new core from rockauto waiting for it to arrive) but still overheats (and just to point out, I bleed the system each time I do something), had a friend ring over his tech one and we read for codes my check engine light hasnt word since I bought itm think ether the bulb has bown or taken out) no codes. Checked everything to do with the head gasket it seems fine, no water in the oil, white smoke or damnpness in the cylinders.
What I have noticed tho is, when the gauge starts to rise off cold it doesn't stop at all, goes right to hot, and even tho my gauge shows overheating, the radiator cap isn't warm, the hoses are warm t the touch but arent steaming hot, and the engine doesn't make the typical sounds of a hot engine (cracking and poppig you normally hear)
Beginning to think my gauge is bad, Its always bit "slow" to start to rise, and sometimes would still be on cold even if my heat was blowing hot. When ity does "overheat" according to the gauge (i have never let it get far enough pass the first "h" hash to hurt anything) if I turned it off and wait just a bit (not even a minute in most cases) and turn the key the gauge would already be showing under the overheating point withing a less than 5 minutes it would alr4ady be back to normal or under.
What do you guys think? And anyone able to tell me excactly where the coolant temp sensor is located, im fairly sure i know which one it is, but want to verify

I'm probably going to go ahead and install a bosch water temp gauge since i can get them for like $15, but quest about it, hooking the sensor up and all is pretty basic, but what about the bulb? the electric part confuses me and hoping someone might have some experice, reading the instructions im still a bit lost, talks about ground dimmer or a positive dimmer and whatnot.
Thanks guys
 

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My X has developed some overheating issues as of recent, I knew the radiator had a hole in it for awhile, just hadn't had the money to buy a new one until past week or so, so I replaced it finally, still overheating, repleaced thermostat still doing it. Had the fan clutch and pump checked and thry both are fine, Noticed a leak coming from under the hood from the heater core hose so for the time being I bypassed it (ordered a new core from rockauto waiting for it to arrive) but still overheats (and just to point out, I bleed the system each time I do something), had a friend ring over his tech one and we read for codes my check engine light hasnt word since I bought itm think ether the bulb has bown or taken out) no codes. Checked everything to do with the head gasket it seems fine, no water in the oil, white smoke or damnpness in the cylinders.
What I have noticed tho is, when the gauge starts to rise off cold it doesn't stop at all, goes right to hot, and even tho my gauge shows overheating, the radiator cap isn't warm, the hoses are warm t the touch but arent steaming hot, and the engine doesn't make the typical sounds of a hot engine (cracking and poppig you normally hear)
Beginning to think my gauge is bad, Its always bit "slow" to start to rise, and sometimes would still be on cold even if my heat was blowing hot. When ity does "overheat" according to the gauge (i have never let it get far enough pass the first "h" hash to hurt anything) if I turned it off and wait just a bit (not even a minute in most cases) and turn the key the gauge would already be showing under the overheating point withing a less than 5 minutes it would alr4ady be back to normal or under.
What do you guys think? And anyone able to tell me excactly where the coolant temp sensor is located, im fairly sure i know which one it is, but want to verify

I'm probably going to go ahead and install a bosch water temp gauge since i can get them for like $15, but quest about it, hooking the sensor up and all is pretty basic, but what about the bulb? the electric part confuses me and hoping someone might have some experice, reading the instructions im still a bit lost, talks about ground dimmer or a positive dimmer and whatnot.
Thanks guys
Are you still actually losing fluid? If so, then the gauge is probably right. If not, could be a bad gauge.
 

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I would say water pump as well. When was the last time you changed it? Over the course of owning your truck have you ever changed the radiator fluid? If you owned it for a long time and never flushed the fluid then it has probably corroded the fins on the pump.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Hmmm. I wonder if the water pump is struggling to circulate. I'm not a cooling system expert but that would be my next guess probably before testing the gauge.
would there be away to possibly test for this, money is a bit tight and would hate to shell out the 50-80 for a pump

I would say water pump as well. When was the last time you changed it? Over the course of owning your truck have you ever changed the radiator fluid? If you owned it for a long time and never flushed the fluid then it has probably corroded the fins on the pump.
I have owned it for about 4 years, never changed the pump myself, tho I know it had been changed right before I bought it (at least according to the service documnets that I found in the glove) I have the system flushed once a year, usually at the start of spring. Was hoping against the pump lol due tomoney, but 2 votes for the pump guess it is something I need to look into, just gotten hard for me to do long stints of work on thetruck due to being disabled now.
 

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Have someone rev the engine while you grab the upper radiator hose. If you don't feel much circulation through the hose its prob the pump.
 

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Maybe a clogged radiator. Honestly the best way to check your pump is to actually open everything and look at it. If you have the service record and flushed the radiator once every year then the pump is probably ok. But you should still check it out.
 

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You have TWO temp sensors. One is what shows your dash the temp, and its the least reliable of the two, and, when it goes south, it reads high.

The other is the one for the OBD port/ECM - and its reliable/harder to damage.

The one for the dash is next to the thermostat area, and is damaged typically if doing the thermostat or other stuff over there, etc.


To check it, wait until its saying its over heating...and do an OBD port reading, and see if the OBD port says its too hot too.

If the port temp is OK, the dash guage is wrong...and you just change that sensor and you're done.

If the port says you're overheating, then, you ARE overheating, and you'd look for why.

If the cap felt cool, the way to bet is the bad sensor.
 

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Ran into a similar issue about 2 months back. X guage went up and window fogged up. It was beginning to overheat. Turns out it was low on fluid and I think it was due to the cap not allowing fluid back in from the overflow tank. Changed the cap out and topped up fluid, has been fine ever since.

TJTJ's suggestion for testing is definitely valid and I'd try the sensor first before digging into the water pump.

Good luck.
Let us know what you find.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
well changed senor, no go still showing overheating, picked p a water pump today, its the last thing i havent changedaside from head gasket, will update when i complete the install and testing. thanks for all the helpful suggestions
 

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You mentioned changing the sensor, but not testing the temp via the OBD port when the dash said it was overheating.

You need to do that, even though you changed the (Oft wonky) sensor.

It may be something else, or something else too, etc...but this is a free diagnostic/no parts...and CONFIRMS that you are barking up the right tree.

Otherwise, you end up replacing parts randomly until you run out of ideas, etc.

:D
 

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Discussion Starter #14
ohm my bejezeus. I didn't realize you have to go into the timing belt to get the pump out lol O.O never done this before. But had t0o call it a day I started getting sick, I'm disabled and can't do much:(
As for as the fan clucth, pardon my ignorance, the only way i know to test one it to turn the fan to see if there is resistance, that i tried and it would turn just a little before stopping itself, is there other indicators

I did have someone to OBO test, everything came back normal and reading good, only thing that popped up on the battery of test he ran with his computer is misfiring that I already knew about, plugs need to be changed and theres a split in one of the wires that aligned with the cylinder it said misfiring, other than that all ports normal, no other codes being thrown out for the other test, or so says the guy that came by lol. As far asw getting another test done free at a local auto parts store, the truck wouldn't make it without overheating.

I love my X but sure am getting so frustrated, I am used to working on old muscle cars like my nova and whatnot, this is a completely new experience, and i am loosing faith in her.. a friend of my wife said he had an X once, did the same thing overheating, he replaced everything, even the mechanics couldn't figure it out, so he sold it.. I don't want to go the route, up until now its been good to me
 

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Discussion Starter #15
by the way, there shouldn't be any slack in the timing belt should there? seems to be plenty in mine, and it was just changed 40k ish miles ago. how to a tighten it? and there is supposed to be what, 40 teeth in between the to top sprocket lines i think?>
 

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ohm my bejezeus. I didn't realize you have to go into the timing belt to get the pump out lol O.O never done this before. But had t0o call it a day I started getting sick, I'm disabled and can't do much:(
As for as the fan clucth, pardon my ignorance, the only way i know to test one it to turn the fan to see if there is resistance, that i tried and it would turn just a little before stopping itself, is there other indicators

I did have someone to OBO test, everything came back normal and reading good, only thing that popped up on the battery of test he ran with his computer is misfiring that I already knew about, plugs need to be changed and theres a split in one of the wires that aligned with the cylinder it said misfiring, other than that all ports normal, no other codes being thrown out for the other test, or so says the guy that came by lol. As far asw getting another test done free at a local auto parts store, the truck wouldn't make it without overheating.

I love my X but sure am getting so frustrated, I am used to working on old muscle cars like my nova and whatnot, this is a completely new experience, and i am loosing faith in her.. a friend of my wife said he had an X once, did the same thing overheating, he replaced everything, even the mechanics couldn't figure it out, so he sold it.. I don't want to go the route, up until now its been good to me


You did it wrong.

It has to be read at the port WHEN OVERHEATING according to the DASH guage.

IE: You need to COMPARE the dash to the OBD reading WHEN the dash says its overheating.

>:D

This is NOT the same thing as "Pulling the codes" etc...its a real time readout, of the coolant temperature, from the port, when the engine is running, and the dash says you're over heating.

Its such a simple thing, and idiots/under informed lay people have actually sold their trucks when their incompetent mechanics could not figure out to do that.



-----------------

Essentially, if "no one can figure out why something is happening"...you want to consider if it IS happening.

If you're ONLY reason to think its overheating, is the dash guage says you are, but, nothing else does...then, you have to consider if its bad information.

That sensor is easily damaged, fails all by itself sometimes, and is a known issue. Mechanics changing them sometimes do the same thing to the new one, accidentally, as its easy to damage...making diagnosis even trickier.

So, sure, engines overheat...if something is wrong. If nothing is wrong....well...that's when the flag goes up.

:D

If the radiator is not clogged with rust/debris/mice, the fan clutch is working, the radiator cap is holding its seal, the head gasket isn't blowing, its the correct heat range of spark plugs and you have the right octane fuel, the water pump is circulating, the thermostat is opening, and so forth...you do run out of stuff to fix....eventually.

As of right now, the two top fixes for over heating on an old rig like yours (and mine) is is the radiator cap not holding pressure, and the damn dash temp sensor going south.

Sure, other stuff happens, and might be your issue(s), but, if the mechanics can't find any of those OTHER things, at least check the low hanging fruit first before spending money on expensive stuff you might not need.

:D
 

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Discussion Starter #17
You did it wrong.

It has to be read at the port WHEN OVERHEATING according to the DASH guage.

IE: You need to COMPARE the dash to the OBD reading WHEN the dash says its overheating.

>:D

This is NOT the same thing as "Pulling the codes" etc...its a real time readout, of the coolant temperature, from the port, when the engine is running, and the dash says you're over heating.

Its such a simple thing, and idiots have actually sold their trucks when their incompetent mechanics could not figure out to do that.
ah ok, hve to try to get him back out. so if the read out shows temp different than the dash its either the sensor or gauge?
 

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ah ok, hve to try to get him back out. so if the read out shows temp different than the dash its either the sensor or gauge?
If the dash shows overheating, and the OBD port shows normal, its actually normal...and, that means for your year X, its the bad sensor for the dash gauge....a simple DIYS level fix for a few buck.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
sorry its been a few days for updates, been stuck and nothing happening. My landlord sent over a mechanic friend of hers, he ran port tests and compression tests, everything came back good. He said it seemed like the water pump, so we did a few simple tests, and suggested we disconnected the heater core hoses since I had bypassed it and and I crank the truck, no water was seen at all, and he said it was a good sign the pump was bad since there seemed to be no circulation at all. He is in the process of changing the pump and timing belt, and after removing the crankshaft pulley and lower timing belt cover he stated it appeared the pump was leaking and it was hidden well by the cover.

So another question, while removing the radiator and shroud again, one of the clips on the bottom part of the removable shroud peice broke off, I thought to ask you guys since you are all experienced with the Xs will the truck cool properly if I leave that part off until I can afford to buy a new shroud, and/or find one? I know some vehicles won't cool properly if the shroud is incomplete or not on, or is there some way i can rig it to stay on til i get more money? thanks guys
 

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The shroud does help the airflow go through the radiator instead of around it...but if only a small area is missing, its not that bad.

:D

You might be able to staple/plastic weld the broken parts back together BTW.

The lower cowling of the shroud is also replaceable as a separate part.
 
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