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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
so it looks like my rough idle/ long start problem has gotten even worse, now it barely starts, runs like absolute garbage for 5 seconds then stalls out. i litterally cant even get it to run now. its currently stuck in a parking lot. it is most likely not the distributor, it ran like garbage with the original hitatchi(fresh bearing and all) and with 2 brand new aftermarket distributors.
 

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Discussion Starter #3 (Edited)
dude, its not the distributor. why would the issue slowly degrade worse and worse because of the wrong distributor? it was doing this with the ORIGINAL hitatchi distributor that the engine came off the line with, 2 different distributors didnt change anything at all. i finally got it started after it ran like a bag of shit for 10 minutes of turning over and it finally leveled out after pouring out a ton of smoke. i am almost 80% sure its a head gasket because i found whiteish goo under the oil cap. this distributor myth needs to die already, sure the bearings fail but the whole casting number thing i think is bs. i have read through tons of posts on this forum and others and everyone says distributor, the guy replaces it and says its still running like a bag. i am going to run a compression test and a fuel pressure test tonight and see what the results are
 

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Long crank time is usually a fuel issue. Check fuel pressure.

Or low compression but for your sake I'll hope fuel


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Discussion Starter #6
well, i checked the compression and the numbers were surprisingly good, 115-120 first crank, and up to 180 by 4 rotations. i pulled the evap can off and its not full of water and all the ports are clear so thats off the list.... i will check the fuel pressure this weekend for sure, as well as a coolant pressure test soon to rule out a head gasket problem.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
i know its been a while, but i thought id post some updates here.... radiator pressure holds steady and doesnt drop at all, fuel pressure holds steady at 37 while running but for some reason drops off down to 20 and bleeds off real quick when the pump shuts off, is that normal? i put the guage on the return line and i didnt even get any psi comeing off it, i heard somewhere that there is a check valve in the pump to keep pressure in the system? is it normal to drop sharply down to 20 and bleed off to 0 after a while? it seems to start up and run now with a noticeable misfire and bucks pretty hard on the highway every now and then. i am gona see if i can get a used ecu out of a junkyard xterra and see if that improves anything at all. at this point i am thinking the ecu is toast, an injector(s) is sticking open or its the fuel pressure dropping off at the return line...
 

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As deja blue said its probably the wrong dist. And sounds exactly like what would happen with the wrong dist and if something else was bad enough to cause this sensor related or pressure would normally throw a code.
 

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You try unplugging the maf sensor or the tps to see if it evens out? And the distributor thing is not a myth cause it happend to me when mine was missing. I orderd a new one and it did the same thing. Put the old one back in with a new bearing and it worked fine. Although you may have replaced that bearing the distributor itself will go bad. Not every thing lasts forever. Though i think your doing alot of unnecessary work for this.
 
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