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Good afternoon all,

I currently live in AZ and during the summer, my xterra overheats quite often. Last summer I replaced the water pump, radiator, fan clutch, temperature sender, and a miscellaneous engine part. I have also made sure it has the correct amount of coolant in it, yet it still overheats on hot days. Before I did the replacements, it was overheating while driving no matter the temperature, after the upgrades, it only overheats when the temperature reaches a bit over 100 and I have to travel over any type of mountain. My dilemma is that I have to leave the valley and therefore go over the surrounding mountains mid summer. Is there anything that I could do to limit or eliminate the overheating issue at this point or is it just something I should expect with a vehicle of that age.
 

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Good afternoon all,

I currently live in AZ and during the summer, my xterra overheats quite often. Last summer I replaced the water pump, radiator, fan clutch, temperature sender, and a miscellaneous engine part. I have also made sure it has the correct amount of coolant in it, yet it still overheats on hot days. Before I did the replacements, it was overheating while driving no matter the temperature, after the upgrades, it only overheats when the temperature reaches a bit over 100 and I have to travel over any type of mountain. My dilemma is that I have to leave the valley and therefore go over the surrounding mountains mid summer. Is there anything that I could do to limit or eliminate the overheating issue at this point or is it just something I should expect with a vehicle of that age.

Sadly knowing the amount of effort and work going into whats already been done and having to deal with similar things in one of my overland rigs here in Nevada as Vegas believe it or not gets into avg temps of 103* often with 2 months of the year near 118* +/- some.

The radiator you have or are using isnt big enough to hold enough coolant to keep temperatures where they should be. NOT so much due to just driving around town but in heat, HIGH heat at that, slow speeds where not enough airflow is coming across the radiator, and your putting the truck to task albeit.

Swapping out to a larger rad isnt exactly enough, it'll do the same thing only take a little longer. Its time to free up some parasitic loss from the Clutch fan and do an E-Fan setup (Electric fan setup) if nothing better, the fan itself may be old and bends with the heat (needing replacing). Whereas some will argue that the current draw from the fan is worse than the drag on the motor, yada yada.. either way its a draw on the engine, its just preference. Not to mention, SHOULD you go elsewhere and encounter a water crossing, you cant turn off a clutch fan, but you can an E-Fan setup.

Other suggestions, if you replaced the T-stat with a stock one. Its likely a 195*-210* temp. Swap it out for a 172.4*. like Mishimoto
https://www.12degnorth.com/product-page/nissan-frontier-xterra-performance-thermostat-by-mishimoto version. Opens up earlier and gets coolant flowing. Yours may not have the same in the 02' but I guarantee you someone makes a 180* T-stat for your engine.

Things like oil coolers, Trans-coolers, all of these things can have an effect on the engine temps. Consider doing an oil cooler. I think Mishimoto may have a universal style one, may want to call to be sure of that. Keeping oil temp down keeps engine temps down which keeps coolant temps down.

Also consider throwing in a bottle of their coolant additive. They claim it keeps coolant temps down which I am sure it does but I've not used it. My only experience with a coolant additive is "Water Wetter" from Redline Oils (available anywhere even Autistic Zone and Oreallys). Its about the same cost but they at least tell you you can expect 10*-12* reduced temps. That's fairly good to be honest, you'll need or want 2 bottles either way you go.

Trans cooler, if your's still runs inside of the Auto radiator, consider it preventive maintenance from S.M.O.D. (if you haven't done so already) and going to an external that's a bit larger with more surface area to cool down better. Several on the market from Mishimoto to B&M, Haydon... etc

An old school trick which seemingly is popular in the import performance crowd set on Ridiculous mode, is the advent of removing the rear hood gasket. It rides along the rear of the hood line inside the engine bay and on top of the firewall. As a test remove it, you may need to shim the hood with a couple washers on the hood hinge bolts. Just dont do like the Honda Civic guys and add 20 washers to each bolt so the hood looks like they tried opening it from the opposite end like a 68' Vette and broke it.

Outside of that consider some retraining of your driving habits. i.e. Climbing a long stretch of tarmac as you stated. Don't try to keep up with traffic and do 75 MPH+. back it off to 55-60 throw it down a gear or 4th if its a manual and ride it out. Most idiots doing that aren't dragging a carcass of a vehicle around like us, they certainly are more efficient at power to weight and that's why they slingshot by, and those that are in SUV and large trucks doing 80-90 MPH - their vehicles are either often in a state of repair or don't last long anyways because they beat on them and sell it to get a new one every two years and keep that perpetual debt can kicked down the road.., or funnier yet, its a rental and just don't care its not theirs.

Not saying that's you, I'm just painting a picture for reference cause.. well someone fits the description because I witness it everyday living in the Vegas Bowl so there is more than one.

As an added thought. May consider taking that list of ideas and running it backwards. Try the water wetter, T-stat, then an Efan/Fan replacement, then as things get more intense for performance related options then you might have to get a little dirty and start adding the other items.

BTW did you have the system reversed flushed by chance to make sure you have no obstructions in the system by chance?

hope some of that helps
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
I did end up having it flushed a bit before I had the radiator changed out. As for my driving habits, that could definitely be a cause as well (but I don't believe it to be the only one) as I am used to driving in cooler temperatures where that type of driving was completely acceptable for the car, unlike in AZ. I will start going through some of the steps and see if that doesn't help it some, while also trying not to break the bank any. Thanks for your input, very helpful!
 

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Everything that @Undrstm8ed said, but also consider:

Inspect/clean your A/C condenser:
Pull off the front grill and take a hard look at the A/C condenser, and make sure the fins are not bent blocking airflow, if they are bent, use a small pick or "radiator comb" to straighten them out. Clean out any debris between the fins as well.

Inspect/clean that space between the A/C condenser and the radiator:
This can be a real pain, as it may involve removing the radiator which you might end up doing anyway. There could be leaves, sticks, other junk which can obstruct airflow.

Inspect/clean the radiator:
First look on the backside of the radiator, pop the fan shroud off, and take a good look. It is possible that some idiot, folded a bunch of fins over while doing some sort of maintenance.
No one wants to pull the radiator, but if there is significant fin distortion on the front side (the space between the A/C condenser and radiator), may need to pull the radiator and have a fin straightening party.

Inspect the coolant:
I see the system was flushed. What quality of water did the mechanic shop use when they filled up the system again? I like to think they all use distilled water, but that is not always the case. Tap water contains all sorts of minerals and additives that will damage the cooling system and reduce its efficiency.

Get the A/C system serviced:
If the A/C system is not working at its peak efficiency, then extra heat may end up being passed from the condenser to the radiator making the cooling even less effective.

hth,
Bob
 

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Bleed again, jack front WAY up to help, get something like below kit to ensure no air pockets. Any small drip leaks from any coolant components...I had one on the rear of engine near the block to intake hose that was causing an overheat issue after a few weeks of slight drip.

Also I have new DENSO dual-core radiator, e-FANs, NO overheating in 100 degree plus Sacramento summer.

https://www.amazon.com/EPAuto-Radiator-Coolant-Filling-Funnel/dp/B01I40ZQWE/ref=sr_1_2?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1520967649&sr=1-2&keywords=coolant+fill+kit
 

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I did end up having it flushed a bit before I had the radiator changed out. As for my driving habits, that could definitely be a cause as well (but I don't believe it to be the only one) as I am used to driving in cooler temperatures where that type of driving was completely acceptable for the car, unlike in AZ. I will start going through some of the steps and see if that doesn't help it some, while also trying not to break the bank any. Thanks for your input, very helpful!
Its what helps make a community, especially a gear-headed one work ;)

Everything that @Undrstm8ed said, but also consider:

may need to pull the radiator and have a fin straightening party.

hth,
Bob
Man, what kind of beer do we bring to a fin-straightening party? ;) lol :D
 

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At any point in these overheating episodes to you hear the fan noise increase? If not I would suspect the fan clutch.
Also don't climb hills at less than the 3K rpm. Keep the revs up! Less heat will be generated and the fan moves more air. Easy for me to say as mine is a manual tranny.
 

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At any point in these overheating episodes to you hear the fan noise increase? If not I would suspect the fan clutch.
Also don't climb hills at less than the 3K rpm. Keep the revs up! Less heat will be generated and the fan moves more air. Easy for me to say as mine is a manual tranny.
OP had already just replaced fan clutch.
 

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Lol.. Done ! :D
 
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