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Discussion Starter #1
Hi, I am Chris, and I am a new member in need of advise... 01JAN20
2002 3.3 Xterra
The vehicle does not really accel on the road past 3.5k RPM and cuts off at stops. Since i have revisited it, it also refuses to idle. Here's the story....

Due to oil consumption, i replaced the valve cover gaskets. Found that an exhaust manifold was cracked, so put on headers and ran a flowmaster type muffler after cat, as well. Poor fuel mileage leaned me towards replacing the distributor cap/rotor/ button, the plug wires, the plugs, and the injectors. A mech friend advised bypassing the water flow through the intake manifold ( I live in SC, USA). Found what appeared to be a leak using throttle body cleaner at the intake manifold gaskets, so those have been replaced. Fuel pump/screen has been replaced when i saw that the screen was shredded. Fuel filter was replaced at this time.
Somewhere throughout all of this it started to run awkward. The only tell tell signs i have with my diagnostic tools is that every 20 seconds or so, the Short term fuel trim fluctuates for about 5 seconds. During the 5 secs it struggles to run. It also does not want to go above 55-60. However, as long as it is in its sweet time period, it'll raise hell at cutting donuts.
I have cleaned the MAF and the idle air control solenoid. I have replaced all 4 O2 sensors.
All of these mods/replacements happened in a short period of time. I left the Xterra on the back burner for a few months with the battery out and just went back to it today. Nothing has changed other than it wont idle, but i only worked on it for a couple of hours to see if anything changed with the battery out for so long. I had put a fresh 5 gallons of gas in it prior to starting it up.
I may have left something out, but any convo i welcome. My last resort is a dealership, so leave that out for now.
 

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Did you run codes for the knock sensor? It is common to find that the bank 1, circuit input high (code P0325) will be stored in the ECM.
Do you have a super charger? If so this can cause the ECM the put the truck in "limp mode"
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Did you run codes for the knock sensor? It is common to find that the bank 1, circuit input high (code P0325) will be stored in the ECM.
Do you have a super charger? If so this can cause the ECM the put the truck in "limp mode"
No SC, and i relocated the knock sensor to the top of the intake.
 

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Have you had the timing belt replaced at all?
How many miles on the engine?
Hard to say but it it kinda sounds like the timing could be off, but this is just speculation...
 

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Your post stated you replaced the distributor. Did you mark everything relating to the distributor and replace it as it was before it was removed? You sound somewhat mechanically inclined so I assume this was done properly. Just stating if the dizzy rotor was not replaced the exact way it was when it was removed, the timing will be off.
 

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Discussion Starter #7 (Edited)
Hey guys, sorry for the hold up.
1st off, there are no codes.
So, concerning the distributor, i replaced the cap and the button. I did not remove splined shaft( if that is how these are driven), and the cap/button could only go back on as they had come off.
Timing belt... I do not know if it has been replaced before, but not since i have had it. And it ran good (thirsty for fuel, but good) before some or one of these mods.
Fuel pressure... I checked at the tank and at the rail. Both were equal at ~45psi.

That being said, keep the suggestions coming. Here are a couple of things i still want to do when i get time;
It was noticed that after the headers and exhaust were done that the passenger header (and maybe the drivers side too) would get red hot, even with moderately sporty driving. So i want to pull the exhaust off and check cats, maybe even gut them.
I had a service manual that showed some tests i could do to the TPS and MAF before i just shotgun those parts.
I will also look into verifying the timing.
 
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