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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Aloha All,
New to CX here!!
My wifes 2002 SE S/C with only 30k miles died in the yard about 2 years ago after some rough running and has sat there since. Limited resources here on island make any type of repairs here difficult. Well 2 weeks ago I decided to give it a go. Only able to really work on it on weekends due to work. Well my first thought was to change plugs,wires,cap rotor, fuel/air filters and get it running so I could start determining problems. Tried starting, but no luck. Could smell gas, checked oil, ended up with about 2 qts of gas in the crankcase. Found there was a bad fuel pressure regulator allowing gas to be sucked into the intake plenum. Pulled Supercharger, plenum, fuel rail and changed all injectors as well as the fuel pressure regulator. All back together still no start, found a no spark condition, found the distributor was bad, changed distributor, got the X started! After a quick test drive up the street there was no power on acceleration, like with a vacuum leak or timing was retarded, pulled a 0328 code, have everything on order for the knock sensor replacement. While waiting for the parts to arrive (probably a week out) I was checking other potential issues and now have come up with an electrical problem that I would like some suggestions on. I noticed while putting the battery cable on there seemed to be an excessive spark, I did a a quick series check from negative cable to negative post and came up with 12.7v, I then removed fuses 1 by 1 to determine location of short. But no luck. I then removed all fuses from both the interior and the under the hood fuse blocks still 12.7v. While fuse were out under the hood I checked the fuse terminals and read 12.7 on both fuse terminals of the 80A Ign Sw B+, 20A Audio Amp, 7.5A Air Con, 15A Audio, 40A ABS MTR, 40A ABS Sol. , I've also disconnect Alternator and Starter without and change. Any suggestions would be appreciated. Mahalo!!
 

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He is saying from negative to negative, so he is thinking there is a draw...try disconnecting the alternator to see if the "draw" goes away...I'll keep pondering this as well

Darin
01 Xterra SE 4x4
COMING SOON:
Intake mod, timing belt, hoses, belts
Wish list:
PML, EFan conversion, shocks, 32" tires, and eventually UCA'S
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
He is saying from negative to negative, so he is thinking there is a draw...try disconnecting the alternator to see if the "draw" goes away...I'll keep pondering this as well

Darin
01 Xterra SE 4x4
COMING SOON:
Intake mod, timing belt, hoses, belts
Wish list:
PML, EFan conversion, shocks, 32" tires, and eventually UCA'S
Thanks for the reply XterraD4u I disconnected both the Alternator and Starter without and change. Also while running I checked battery was it was charging at 14.8. Gotta head off to work now.
 

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First off, I will tell you one thing, start by getting contact cleaner and some dielectric grease. Go through each plug you can find, every fuse and relay, and clean them with the cleaner, then add a small amount of dielectric grease, this will ensure proper connections throughout and help ensure no gremlins at the connections, then I would check again...now just to be clear, you are checking between the negative terminal and the negative cable when disconnected? Also check all of the connections at the positive cable for proper connection. And while you have the negative disconnected, it's a good time to reset the ecu by pumping the brakes to remove all power from the system. Other than that man, I don't know if you really have a problem if it isn't killing your battery

Darin
01 Xterra SE 4x4
COMING SOON:
Intake mod, timing belt, hoses, belts
Wish list:
PML, EFan conversion, shocks, 32" tires, and eventually UCA'S
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Thanks for reply XterraD4u. Yes I did use contact cleaner and dielectric grease on every connector I could get to, and yes I am checking between the negative terminal and the negative cable when disconnected. I'll try pumping brakes to clear ECU. Actually since I started this project I leave the battery disconnected while working on it and connect when needed, so not sure if battery will if left on over night will check that. Now that I think about it would it be the Security System drawing the power?
 

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If it doesn't kill the battery, I wouldn't worry about it...however, your knock sensor code is probably because of your lack of power/timing issue, as from what I have read thus far, knock sensors rarely go out, some people even bypass them. Get it at TDC and make sure your distributor is aimed at #1 , if it is, then while running, spray carb cleaner on every vacuum line and around the intake manifold, plenum, etc.., if there is a leak, it will rev up when the carb cleaner is sucked in...

Darin
01 Xterra SE 4x4
COMING SOON:
Intake mod, timing belt, hoses, belts
Wish list:
PML, EFan conversion, shocks, 32" tires, and eventually UCA'S
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Thanks for reply XterraD4u. Will connect battery after work and check tomorrow. Had it lined up on TDC when I did the distributor replacement. Will check for vacuum leak with carb spray. Also has about a 1/4 tank of gas, probably should get some high octane gas in it, not sure what wife had put in it 2 years ago.
 

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Definitely fill the tank and add injector cleaner, probably should replace the fuel filter from sitting, and make sure your timing is around 12-15 I believe...but definitely check for those leaks

Darin
01 Xterra SE 4x4
COMING SOON:
Intake mod, timing belt, hoses, belts
Wish list:
PML, EFan conversion, shocks, 32" tires, and eventually UCA'S
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Thanks for reply XterraD4u. Replaced the fuel filter and all injectors when I replaced the fuel pressure regulator. I set timing at 10-12 (tag on hood said 10). Going to check for leaks today after work.
 

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Well with a SC you might need to retard it to 10...but I am still thinking it is a leak

Darin
01 Xterra SE 4x4
COMING SOON:
Intake mod, timing belt, hoses, belts
Wish list:
PML, EFan conversion, shocks, 32" tires, and eventually UCA'S
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Thanks for reply XterraD4u. Checked for leaks all Ok. However while re-checking timing it was at about 12, but noticed when I installed the distributor I didn't set it up in the center of the adjustment slot, so I'm going to correct that after work, just because. Also forgot they don't sell super gas on island any more just regular and diesel, going have to get some octane boost. Hooked the battery up last and will check for any drain after work today as well.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Well checked battery today after leaving cables on overnight and appears there is no significant battery drain (yesterday 12.7 today 12.6). Filled tank and added octane boost. Set distributor to 10 BTDC. Still running rough, like retarded or something is plugged up, almost no action on acceleration just bogging. Engine compartment seemed to be a bit hot, temp gauge was ok and not overheating, was just starting to get dark when I noticed the drivers side exhaust manifold was getting red hot. Shut engine down. Engine compartment was definitely hotter than usual. Pulled a P0300 code (multi cylinder misfire), a P0132 code (O2 sensor Bank 1),and the P0328 code (knock sensor). I couldn't go much further as it was starting rain. So now it appears I have some more issue. I'm thinking possibly the Cats are plugged? Any quick ways of determining that? Suggestions?
 

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The quickest way I know is to unhook them and see if your truck smooths out. I did read somewhere that if the knock sensor goes bad on the SC ones it puts them in limp mode or something...how long until your part arrives

Darin
01 Xterra SE 4x4
COMING SOON:
Intake mod, timing belt, hoses, belts
Wish list:
PML, EFan conversion, shocks, 32" tires, and eventually UCA'S
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Thanks for reply XterraD4u. May try to measure back pressure if I can round up items needed for that here. Knock Sensor and gaskets should be here any day hopefully before weekend.
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Update had a dry weekend for some car work. Put in the knock sensor, with some minor difficulty, stripped one of the 6mm hex bolts holding fuel rail, need to use the hex socket that has the longer shaft, the standard hex socket will fit in however not quite all the way in, the injector keeper cap prevents full engagement.
Still waiting for the front bank O2 sensor should be here tomorrow. So only pulling the P0132 code now.
Did back pressure check at the front O2 sensors and no back pressure is present so I believe the Cats to be OK or unrestricted.
Performance now no real difference.
No power when putting any load on it. Starts rough, idles a bit rough kind of lopes. Has a bit of noise from lifters. Pulled plug wires one by one at cap has spark but no noticeable engine difference on cylinders 1,3,5, pulled new plugs on 1,3,5 they were black and sooty, 2,4,6 plugs appear normal.
 

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You're running very rich on cylinders 1, 3, & 5, or not firing properly, or you have three leaking injectors(not likely, but possible), but definitely something going wrong there...I'll ponder it for a while

Darin
01 Xterra SE 4x4
COMING SOON:
Intake mod, timing belt, hoses, belts
Wish list:
PML, EFan conversion, shocks, 32" tires, and eventually UCA'S
 

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Nobody has suggested the maf sensor... Or tps?! try a couple things here. 1 remove the tps plugs with it running and see if it smoothes the idle if it does thats your problem. Also try with the maf sensor disconnected and let us know how that worked out.
 

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Nobody has suggested the maf sensor... Or tps?! try a couple things here. 1 remove the tps plugs with it running and see if it smoothes the idle if it does thats your problem. Also try with the maf sensor disconnected and let us know how that worked out.
I didn't even think of that...good idea...MAF could be corroded

Darin
01 Xterra SE 4x4
COMING SOON:
Intake mod, timing belt, hoses, belts
Wish list:
PML, EFan conversion, shocks, 32" tires, and eventually UCA'S
 
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