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I have gauges, lights, radio etc, but it won't turn over.My BIL tried to jump start it today,but it doesn't seem that the battery is the problem.Neither one-of us is a repair geek.I'm hoping to narrow the problem down and see if I can repair it myself.There is no clear sound when trying to turn the key--no cranking that I can tell.I just had the car checked over at a reputable shop given that the transmission is going.It was in need of a tune-up,but no mention of ignition type of problems. Thanks.
 

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Could be starter, I don't think there is a way to check it though. Also check fuses in the fuse box
 

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i diagnose the starter as the problem
 

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she has lights, it wouldnt be the alternator. your starter has probably gone bad, i think you can get the starter tested at auto zone but im not for sure on that.
 

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Autozone will test it for free, Schuck's autosupply will too.
 

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x2, if he still has power and his dash dosent dim when he tries to crank its not the alt or the batt

with the info given i cant see it being anything but the starter
 

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Starter is a possibility, esp if the electric is OK other than spinning the engine.

One cheap fix (Temporary) is to hit the starter with a hammer or crow bar over and over again while someone is turning the key to start it. (I whack at it via the passenger side front tire well)

Sometimes, the gears bind, and the angry whacks knock them free to spin again, etc.

Other times, the angry whacks merely extract a modicum of revenge.

:D
 

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There is no "clunk"?

Or a rapid clicking noise?
 

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Ok, quick question for the experts. I'm having the same issue with my 01 SE, verified no blown fuses or fusable links, clutch safety switch works, had it on the charger and plenty of juice, cables are tight high and low, and I even crawled under with my metric hammer and whacked away like the old days, but nothing.

That being said, and I do know my may around cars pretty well, I shorted across the solenoid terminals and the puzzling thing is the starter spins up, but doesn't kick out the drive gear to engage the flywheel.

Oh, and the fact that the starter doesn't even spin when I turn the key is confusing, since it reacts to a wrench across the terms to some extent at least.

I could see one or the other being the issue, but ?? Is there something I'm missing with this type of starter, another term I can't see on the top of the solenoid maybe?
If that's the case I feel confident it's the solenoid, but hate to drop it for nothing. Anyone have experience with the 3.3L starters setup?

Thanks in advance!

I have gauges, lights, radio etc, but it won't turn over.My BIL tried to jump start it today,but it doesn't seem that the battery is the problem.Neither one-of us is a repair geek.I'm hoping to narrow the problem down and see if I can repair it myself.There is no clear sound when trying to turn the key--no cranking that I can tell.I just had the car checked over at a reputable shop given that the transmission is going.It was in need of a tune-up,but no mention of ignition type of problems. Thanks.
 

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the solenoid cost as much as the whole starter!
I saw that, just wondering if the behavior I've described makes any sense? Two separate issues as far as I can tell, unless someone can confirm that the starter behaves this way when bad AND jumped across the solenoid? If it was the solenoid, jumping across the terminals should engage the starter, and if it was the motor itself, turning the key would cause the same spinning sound as shorting across the term's, no?
I guess the only way to be sure is to measure at the solenoid and see if it's getting 12v when the key is turned to start position?
 

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For the sake of completeness and the next searcher, adding a nice starter troubleshooting article link I came across. Apparently the behavior I'm seeing is indicative of a bad solenoid, spins but doesn't engage when shorting across the terms.

link

Next you want to see if the problem lies in the starter motor itself. Looking at the back of the solenoid, you will see two big post electrical connectors. What you want to do here (TRANSMISSION IN NEUTRAL -- PARKING BRAKE ON!!!!!!!!!!!!!) is grab a big screwdriver or a pair of insulated pliers. Touch only the plastic or rubber handle. You want to take this tool and short across the two big post terminals. Be prepared for some sparks, but hold the tool up there until you make a good connection. What you are doing here is connecting the battery directly to the starter motor, WITHOUT engaging the solenoid. So what should happen is that the starter motor will spin but will not crank the engine. It should sound like a regular electric motor, no gravelly or strange noises. If it does not spin or sounds really bad, have it rebuilt. If it works like it's supposed to, the motor is good so move on to the next step.
 
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