Nissan XTerra Forum banner

1 - 8 of 8 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
3 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
Hello All!

I've checked the forums and seen this has been an issue with other users. This thread is to track what Ive done to fix the issue and maybe help others out with the issue.

I just picked up this automatic 2000 Xterra with 147,xxx miles on it. When I test drove it thing ran great. A few days later is when it started its issues.

I was driving to work and noticed the car would had a slight stumple while cruising, with a steady light throttle. The I got to a stop light and the car idled fine for about 10 seconds and then when into this misfire and the whole car would rumble. I noticed that if I put the car in neutral or park or reverse the cars idle would go back to normal with a very slight rumble. No SES lights have went off yet. So I go to pull out after the light turns green and with throttle the car smooths out like it was perfectly fine. Get to work and no SES light yet, lunch comes around and I leave to grab a burger get a few miles down the road and the SES light comes on.

I scanned and the codes were:
-P0325- Knock Sensor Problem ( Bank #1 )
-P0300- Random Misfire Detected

Cleared the codes, problem still persists,I read up on the sensor and im not worried about it, ill do the relocation at another point in time, unless it needs to be corrected for this misfire issue, I drive the car for a 1 1/2 days no SES, then finally get it again.

Codes:
-P0325- Knock Sensor Problem(Bank#1 )
-P0335- Crank Position Sensor (Position) Fault
-P1336- Crank Position Cog Problem

So after I cleared the codes I drove to Advance Auto and buy a new Crank Position Sensor and installed it, taking note that the pigtail was replaced for the Crank sensor, but connected and heat shrinked, i checked it and it seemed solid with no corrosion or signs of being damaged. The crank sensor did not fix the issue and I drive the vehicle for 2 days no SES, then it lights up.

Pull codes:
-P0325- Knock Senor Problem(I read up on the sensor and im not worried about it, ill do the relocation at another point in time, unless it needs to be corrected for this misfire issue)
-P0305- Misfire Detected Cylinder #5

I first checked the connections at the distributor cap and plug all was OK, then pulled the spark plug and it was a fairly new looking NGK plug, which would coincide with the new wires and distributor that were on the vehicle when I bought it. So i put it all back together and clear codes. Another day or so goes by problem persists, no code untill second day.

Codes:
-P0325
-P0304- Misfire Detected Cylinder #4

Pulled the plug and checked the connections all were OK. I also cleaned the MAF off with cleaner, didn't help the situation.

I decided to change the fuel filter because it looked very old, well it was, must have been the original filter, I decided to cut the filter open and the inside was rough the rubber that held the filter together was all disintegrated and were tons of particles in the filter. Im also not sure if the filter was detached from the can from the get go or if it came apart from me cutting it open. Either way Im concerned some of that junk might have made it to the fuel rail/injectors. The new filter seemed to make it run smoother and no hesitation for a few miles but it came back while driving that same day.


So a recap
-Checked distributor cap and rotor,spark plugs and wires
-Cleaned MAF
-Changed Fuel Filter
-Changed Crank Position Sensor

So what do you guys think I should check into next? Im worried about the fuel rail and injectors being clogged or restricted, here is a pic of what came out of the fuel filter before I cut it open.
 

Attachments

·
Registered
Joined
·
384 Posts
Im sure nothing got in your fuel line. The first thing you should do is check the air box and make sure its not filled with nests or leaves and take the air filter off too to help check. Insects love xterra airboxes. Next would be to open the distributor cap, ignition rotor and secondary cap and be sure you dont see any metal shavings or red dust. If you see that than it is your distributor bearing going bad. Lastly I would check the ignition timing but personally I think it is the distributor bearing since it is a common problem on these trucks.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
255 Posts
You mentioned that it looks like a new distributor? It's possible its the incorrect model. There are like 5 different part numbers for the same year xterra.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
8,519 Posts
Also move the injector to another cyl and see if the miss fire moves also do the same with the wire and then the plug.Is possible you have the wrong dis all the after market seller seem to one fits all on the dist and this is total wrong.The ECU works with dist for each different location for different state air requirements . California,Texas,Canada, New York and Hawaii all have different dist look the same on outside but not on the inside. With the wrong one some times no start some time start but does not run right some times run good for a short time and then start acting up.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
808 Posts
Maybe look at the rubber boot from the air box to intake too. I had P0300 and P0301 (occasionalP0171). Found that my boot was split at one of the plugs I put in for the resonator delete. I sealed it with marine goo and so far so good. It may not be your problem, but worth a look
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3 Posts
Discussion Starter #6
Gotcha thanks for input guys, I'm going to go out today and spray the intake with ether and see if there are any leaks at all.

I know Dejablue said it could be the wrong distributor, is there any way I can check part numbers on it to see if its the correct one? I was planning on pulling the distributor and rebuilding it per the post on these forums but I dont want to go ahead and do that if the dizzy is auctually the wrong one.

Also it has new plug wires and there a light blue, is this the stock color for the wires to be? I heard wire from a third party could be an issue as well, was thinking of picking a set up at the Nissan dealer. The previous owner probably replaced the dizzy, wires and plugs from Advance Auto. So Im not sure if there the best for the vehicle.

Ill keep updating as I go through these checks!

Dont be afraid to continue throwing out ideas.

Once I get this problem sorted Im going to re-do my initial post to make it eaiser to read and make a check off list of what others with this problem can check as well, because this seems to be an issue that plagues 1st Gens.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
8,519 Posts
The blue wires are not OEM i have seen bad wires right out the box so don't think because there new there good if you pull on the boot to hard you will break the carbon wire connection.
 
1 - 8 of 8 Posts
Top