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Discussion Starter #1
I have a 2000 xterra and it seems to only blow warm air. It takes a long time to heat up and never gets hot. I recently did a ton of work to it the thermostat is replaced. with a 170f/77c thermostat. The AC system is deleted and the AC relay is removed. not sure if this affects anything at all. Any help is appreciated.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
need to bled the air from bled hole on intake.
I ran the engine today with the bleeder bolt removed for about 1 minute. I didn't see many air bubbles come out at all, so I installed the bolt again. It didn't seem to make a difference. Is there a proper proceedure for this, or should I should I start troubleshooting elsewhere? any ideas?
 

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If you were able to remove the bleeder screw than the pump may not be working up to speed . The way you bled it is just crack open with engine idling and when antifreeze starts spraying out close it.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Okay. The water pump is brand new. The way I did it was remove the bleeder screw then start the engine and let it run until fluid started pouring out. I should run the engine first, then crack the bleeder? should the engine be warm first?
 

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I do it when its heated up with the rad cap off. Not sure if it should be on or off but when i was over heating alot i found when i left the cap open all the fluid that was sitting right below the cap sucked in when i cracked the screw open and took another half galon of antifreeze. I probably had a very bad case of not bleeding it i dont know.
 

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Also i mean just hot enough to be warm. Not after running it for an hour. If you open it when its hot your gonna get burned by antifreeze squirting out of the cap. Dont be that guy... I suggest you pull the cap off when cold let it run for a few minutes than bleed it. So you dont have antifreeze go all over you.
 

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Okay. The water pump is brand new. The way I did it was remove the bleeder screw then start the engine and let it run until fluid started pouring out. I should run the engine first, then crack the bleeder? should the engine be warm first?
does not matter.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Also i mean just hot enough to be warm. Not after running it for an hour. If you open it when its hot your gonna get burned by antifreeze squirting out of the cap. Dont be that guy... I suggest you pull the cap off when cold let it run for a few minutes than bleed it. So you dont have antifreeze go all over you.

thanks. Cap off plus bleeder seems like a good way to push all the air out. maybe I will try that.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
I tested for leaks and bled the system there are no leaks. I noticed theres not much pressure in the upper rad hose but it gets warm and coolant is flowing. I believe I may have figured out my issue. When I installed the new thermostat it did not come with a rubber O ring and the one I removed didn't have the O-ring as well. Was I suppose to install a Oring with the new thermostat?
 

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Yes and there is 1/4 inch that needs to be a 12 oclock
No o-ring on my 2000, doesn't call for one.

Or a bad thermostat. If I was going to pull the new thermostat back out, I would boil it in water with a thermometer to test it, or just buy another one and not worry about whether it was a bad unit out the box.
The thermostat sounds like it is stuck open or defective
 

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Discussion Starter #13
That's what im thinking. So there is not suppose to be a seal or o'ring at all? Now im confused. I cant find any info on this. Dont most thermostats have a seal similar to the one in the picture?
 

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When i put mine in i used permatex gasket maker around it to seal it/ hold the pesky damn thing in place. mine takes a bit to heat up but not long. I usually let mine hold 2nd gear (auto) until around 35ish when its cold as there is no torque converter lockup until the motor is at normal temp. But you either have air in the system or a problem somewhere else. I ran mine with 8 holes in the thermostat and still did fine and didnt take too long to heat up.
 

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That's what im thinking. So there is not suppose to be a seal or o'ring at all? Now im confused. I cant find any info on this. Dont most thermostats have a seal similar to the one in the picture?
No o-ring on the X thermostat. The recommend just using rtv sealant only. I bought the gasket and lightly coated each side with rtv.
After doing my timing belt, the housing refused to seal using rtv only.
 

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When i put mine in i used permatex gasket maker around it to seal it/ hold the pesky damn thing in place. mine takes a bit to heat up but not long. I usually let mine hold 2nd gear (auto) until around 35ish when its cold as there is no torque converter lockup until the motor is at normal temp. But you either have air in the system or a problem somewhere else. I ran mine with 8 holes in the thermostat and still did fine and didnt take too long to heat up.
Best thing about electric fans, engine gets up to running temp extremely quick. Great thing on cold days. And no roaring clutch fan when you first drive off.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
I replaced the thermostat today with a factory nissan thermostat with the hole at 12 oclock . I added the new fluid with the bleeder screw removed until it poured out, installed the bleeder screw again ran the engine with out the rad cap until it reached operating temperature, let it cool and repeated. That didnt seem to help a whole lot so i ran the engine with out the bleeder screw for quite sometime to try and push all the air out. It seems to get warm but still not as hot as it should be. I am running out of ideas. I guess the next step would be loosen the threads on the bleeder screw and hook up a pressure tester and see if that forces any air out? any other help or ideas is appreciated :)
 

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Rent a pressure tester at Autozone and hook it up the radiator cap and see what kind of pressure you have .
 

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Discussion Starter #20
My buddy has one I will test the pressure and see what it is at and post back. What would cause bad pressure?
 
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