Nissan XTerra Forum banner

1 - 17 of 17 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
328 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
New Thread to get new ideas / answers...

2000 Xterra, 6 cyl manual, 180,000 with valve cover oil leak on driver side. Getting worse and will start working on it this Thursday.

A few questions after reading my older threads and watching videos...

1) I am concerned about using the allen wrench to remove the bolts from the upper intake plenum. Some people say they can strip. How likely is this to happen? 1 out of 5? Or not that often, but not unheard of?

2) According to a video I watched, if an allen wrench slips, then I will have to drill the head off the bolt. After I remove the other allen screws and take the plenum off, the video says to use a vice-grip pliers to twist the bad allen bolt that was drilled. Is this reliable or is it also likely that this bolt could break, leaving part of the bolt inside? Whats the best way to remove a bolt where the head was drilled off. If this becomes a mess, then that means I would have to replace the lower intake plenums?

3) Aren't there replacement upper intake screws that use torx bits instead? I am afraid to put the old allen bolts back or even use new allen bolts. The Chilton manual says to tighten the bolts to 15 ft lbs. What happens if I am tightening it and the allen bit slips at 10 ft lbs? Leave it or try to take it out and replace?

4) There is a coolant hose that goes into the upper plenum ( near the PCV valve). There is a bolt at the top that is a bleeder, when adding new coolant. Is that bolt a dead end for the coolant? I can't seem to find where the coolant comes out. In other words, I see where the coolant goes in, but where is the other hose for the coolant when it leaves the upper intake plenum?

5) Should I replace the rubber washers on the valve cover screws? Wish they had something else instead of Phillips screws. Manual says to tighten to 9-26 inch lbs (that is a WIDE range!) 1-2 foot lbs?

6) The manual says to no RTV on the upper intake gasket. Just use gasket only. But a video says to put a THIN layer of RTV. Which is correct?

7) Manual says to use RTV on the valve cover groove and insert gasket. Wait a few minutes, then install cover. Video says use RTV in valve cover, but also use another "yellow RTV" on the gasket side that will be in contact with the rocker valve block. I am tempted to just use the Blue RTV on the valve cover, insert the gasket, then install valve cover (no yellow stuff). Which is better?

Any other advice? I am thinking this is an all day job. Is this about right?
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
8,519 Posts
First there are 2 hoses in the back of the intake both need to be replaced with new screw clamps that have head for 1/4 inch socket to tighten not screw driver . The bleeder screw is opened while idling and air will come out around the screw and antifreeze starts coming out instead of air tighten and you are done. The grommets on the valve cover need to be replaced the center rubber is hard as a rock it must be soft to work correctly the wide range on the tork is from the dampening of the soft rubber inside the new grommet on the screw . Remember to install rubber side up on the grommets. Don't and i mean dont put any thing on the valve gasket or the grommets install dry there some tabs on the cover to lock the gasket in place .The intake bolts should be cleaned so the Allen wrench goes in all the way , plan on at one breaking off ,once the intake is removed the broken bolt can be remove with vice grips.The bolts are one time use ,never reuse any of the intake bolts and if you have tried to tighten the valve cover to try and stop the leaking then you need new bolts for the valve covers . Remember the tork is inch pounds not foot pounds.After the first warm up check the tork on all bolts. All the bolts work by stretching to hold them tight when you remove them they do not return to the original size when you try to reuse the bolts you stretch them even longer and that's why they break. The bolts at Home Depot are not correct grade they will strip the threads in the hole if not installed correctly . The bolt is made to break off under the head if installed incorrectly or reused for easy removal. What else ???
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
8,519 Posts
Also i highly recommend taking the hood off and set on the luggage rack while you are working and if you are under 5 ft 6 in height i would take the front wheels off and drop the truck down as low as possible. Takes 10 mins to remove both wheels and hood and could easily save you 3 hours plus your back will love the day after.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
328 Posts
Discussion Starter #4
OK, so...

1) No RTV on the valve gaskets or the upper intake gasket?

2) Might as well get ALL new bolts for upper intake plenum and Valve covers (and new grommets)?

3) I am also replacing all the hoses. This is the hardest part. Even the guys at Nissan have trouble finding all the hoses that are connected to the upper intake.
I am mainly concerned about the 2 under the intake and 2 in the back.

4) Am I looking at this taking 1 full day?
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
8,519 Posts
Yes a full day . The hoses under the intake can all come from standard roll stock they are all straight. The 2 in the back i would get OEM they are a pain in the ass and you need all the help you can get . I will send you the part numbers for those 2 hose .
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
328 Posts
Discussion Starter #7
Boy!! How did you get those part #'s so fast? Where are you getting the info? I have been on the internet for 1 week and 2 Nissan dealers! No luck other than the hoses that I can change without removing the plenum.

Ok so that is 2 out of 7 that I need. Or maybe I should say 3, since you pointed out that one of them is straight.

See attached picture, with A - D larger hoses, and 1-3 for the thin hoses. Not sure about 3. Will pick them up at my Nissan place after work tonight! Guess those 2 part# you gave me are A & B?

Thank you for you help!
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
8,519 Posts
There are 5 hoses under the intake all of them are straight ,when you get the intake off just take the hoses up to your local Auto Zone and buy just what you need with new clamps.If you you need any other part # just let me know.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
255 Posts
I ended up just cutting those two hoses in the back. Even after getting the clamps off they were essentially fused to the metal tubing. I got replacements at autozone from bulk stock since one was straight and the other just a 90.

I replaced the clamps with regular worm clamps. If you place the clamps right you'll be able to get to them with a long extension to loosen if you need to get the plenum off again.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
328 Posts
Discussion Starter #10
Ok thanks everyone... with those #'s I was able to go back to Nissan and the diagram with those #'s also had Part #'s for the other hoses I wanted!

I will verify and post those part#'s when I have a chance to compare.

But still one question that wasn't answered....

If one of the upper intake plenum bolts slips (the hex part where the allen bit goes in) I will have to drill the head off. When I pull the plenum off, the stud will be sticking out.
A video says to just get vice grip pliers and clamp it on the stud and turn counterclockwise. Is this reliable way to remove the threaded stud part? What are the chances of the threaded part breaking and the rest of the bolt is still inside and I can't get a grip?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
808 Posts
Maybe if one breaks off heat the area GENTLY to loosen it up. If you do have an ice cube ready and touch the broken stud. Thermal shock + srinkage may break it free. Also the two hoses at the back I just did like Pridepack. It's easier and cheaper than OEM. If one strip in the head try hammering in a Allen head one size uo. It might grab enough. Couple of tips I hope you don't need. Good luck and hope it goes well
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
328 Posts
Discussion Starter #14
OK need 3 tubes/ hoses.

1) Need fuel hose that I want to replace, when I put in a new Fuel Pressure Regulator. I think it is part #17527-P000

2) But I also want to replace the vacuum tube that goes from the back of the upper plenum to the pressure regulator. I can't find the part#.

3) I assume from the pictures, that I can get 2 of these vacuum tubes and use both on the back (they look the same size and shape).
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
100 Posts
soak the upper plenum bolts with PB blaster ahead of time....should free up easily.....well at least mine did....
 
1 - 17 of 17 Posts
Top