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Discussion Starter #1
Aghhh. Want to pull some teeth out at this point. Been searching the forums and trying various fixes and there my truck sits.. dead in the driveway.

Background: I was driving along at 65 when the truck died in highway traffic. Scary! Pulled over and the truck was idling, but no power under load, stalling when I gave it gas. When I tried to get back on the highway, the truck died outright and would not restart. It felt like it was starving for fuel.

It cranks. I've tested each spark plug wire with a spark plug tester and I get spark at the terminals and at the ends of the wires. I replaced the fuel pump and fuel sending unit, and the fuel filter. The distributor was replaced about 10 months ago when the truck died the same way.. while driving -- but error codes indicated a crankshaft position sensor and so i replaced the whole distributor.

This time around I'm getting Fuel Temp error codes: PO180 Fuel Temp, and PO464 Fuel Level intermittent. Which indicates that the fuel pump isn't getting power/or the fuses/relays to that area are dead. So, i'm checking that.

I did try to spray starting fluid into the intake (behind the MAF sensor) to see if i could get the truck to turn over.. but nothing.. not even misfiring or anything.. which means I may have a bad distributor too? or simply that the spark that IS happening is happening at the wrong time for firing. Or that there's not enough fuel? which would point to a fuel issue, but testing the fuel pump circuit yields 12 volts which means i am getting power back there..

help lead me in the right direction... I'm at a loss or just blind to what might be an easy solution...
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Turns out the issue was the distributor rotor. Allen set screw holding the rotor in place had loosened out due to some hill driving under load (high rpms) and this was affecting the timing.. so that spark was showing at the wires but at the wrong time for firing.

Once I took off the dist cap, i saw the problem right away. Retightened the rotor with the set screw and all good.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Ok, maybe not so fast. It ran ok for about a month, then the heater core hose return blew out, and that was replaced.

Now, the truck does NOT want to idle or stay running. It runs really rough, almost like the number 6 cylinder is not firing. And indeed, when I hook it up to the ODB, the two consistent error codes are misfire in #6 and knock sensor. There's a LOT of oil coming out between the gaskets on the block and the head, and it looks muddy, like there's a coolant leak there too, right around the number 6 cylinder. I did not change the spark plug on that cylinder (it's at a strange angle, tough to get to) and most likely whenever I took it in for service it was ignored as well.

Any thoughts?
 

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I would replace all of the spark plugs again and if you are seeing oil coming from the valve cover you probably need to go ahead and replace your valve cover gaskets. rockauto.com has the Fel-Pros for $25 or for a quicker fix try tightening the bolts that hold your valve covers down, they tend to get loose over time and leak oil. You may want to try cleaning your coolant lines that are running near the #6 cylinder and see if there is a leak. You can also replace your knock sensor fairly easily and cheap too.
 

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I would replace all of the spark plugs again and if you are seeing oil coming from the valve cover you probably need to go ahead and replace your valve cover gaskets. rockauto.com has the Fel-Pros for $25 or for a quicker fix try tightening the bolts that hold your valve covers down, they tend to get loose over time and leak oil. You may want to try cleaning your coolant lines that are running near the [URL=http://www.clubxterra.org/forums/usertag.php?do=list&action=hash&hash=6]#6 [/URL] cylinder and see if there is a leak. You can also replace your knock sensor fairly easily and cheap too.
I forgot to add if you change your valve cover gaskets out, it would be the best time to do your #6 spark plug because to change the driver's side valve cover gasket the intake manifold needs to come off.
 

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A couple of weeks ago mine started running like crap...it was throwing a cyl 4 misfire...I too tested the plug wire...it was within the recommended specs. After some more screwing around with the distributor, the plugs and the MAF, I just changed all the plug wires, as they were getting long in the tooth anyway, and the x was miraculously cured. It ran great after that.
 
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