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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hey guys, I think this is my first post here.

I was doing an engine rebuild on my X. Long story short, I reinstalled the radiator, flushed the coolant system, and when I looked into the radiator after turning the engine over several times, there was a reddish-brown fluid in it, obviously trans fluid. This was caused by damage to the transmission cooler in the radiator.

So, I of course have to replace the radiator, flush the coolant, and flush the tranny. The concern? The transmission has gone [way] over 60k miles without a fluid flush (previous owner was a complete and utter moron. I was an even bigger moron for buying it without checking this stuff out, but I digress.) I've heard that it is a bad idea to flush the fluid with many miles over the recommended mileage.

So, what are your thoughts?

Also, flushing the fluid... Where do I pour new fluid in? I am aware that it will take several change cycles to get the fluid in the torque converter changed, I'm just unaware of where to pour new fluid in. Granted, I haven't checked at all. Thanks!
 

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I wouldn't flush, I would let it sit for a while and drain as much as I could when it was cold and I would use a large jar or clear plastic tray so I could look at the fluid to see if it was contaminated. Even then I might let it sit on my bench for a while to see if coolant collects at the bottom.

I have seen it where all the contamination was one way so would hope for that.

If the transmission fluid does show contamination then I might flush or just keep changing until I could see any.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Okay, thanks! I did as you suggested, and I can no longer see any coolant in the transmission fluid.

Last issue now- I tried to start the X. It starts rough, putters at 350-500 RPM for 15-30 seconds, then dies. It also dies if given gas. Afterwards, I can smell a gas-like smell coming from the engine, and there are very faint white fumes coming from the engine. VERY faint. Almost impossible to see.

My #1 guess is the EGR valve. During the installation process I messed up and the top f the valve was bent downward, smushed in. It sounds like an ignition problem- I was thinking maybe the valve is stuck open, suffocating the engine?
 

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I would not consider the EGR as I don't think it comes into play until engine is warmed up but if not someone can correct me on that. I have started other engines without the EGR in place and blocked. You'll need it to get it running well but it is very far from that at this point.

If I knew I got the valve timing right, I would suspect a fuel issue but first I would check the ignition system, starting with firing order. Made that mistake the other day, it looked good but when I traced each lead out by running my hand along it I found a spot where two came together and only looked like they were going to the right plugs. I would also check timing as I've had an engine fire when I had the distributor off by 180 degrees.

After all that I would disable the fuel pump and start with starting fluid or shots of raw gas. If the timing is close and ignition working the engine will rev nicely before quitting. Then I would start looking at the fuel system knowing that it is flooding the engine.

But that's just how I'd go about it, there is more than one way to get the engine running.
 
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