[EpicLeather]

Greetings Everyone,

So my 2000 Nissan Xterra was running fine when suddenly it wouldnt crank. I would turn the Key, get one loud click and then nothing. I have had bad luck with starters in the past so I took the old one out and got a new one. Still nothing. I have noticed when the key is engaged there is a low buzzing/hum/rapid clicking noise coming from what appears to be behind the starter. I took the Starter and had it tested and it seems to be working fine, I also cleaned the terminals and check the battery, it shows it to be fine. I am at a loss, anyone experience this or have any suggestions?

 

[Mogman]

How did you "check" the battery?

If you merely checked the voltage, that won't determine whether or not you have enough amperage to rotate the starter. A battery with bad cells in it can show 12.5 volts at the terminals, and drop to...say....6 volts the instant a load is put on it.

 

[EpicLeather]

Ah well I just checked the voltage, the only way of taking the battery at the moment to get it tested is strapping it to my back and walking to the part store a couple of miles away. Even if Im getting power to the rest of the vehicle (lights, radio, ect.) it still may be a bad battery? would that account for the low clicks Im hearing?

 

[Mogman]

Yeah, the starter takes more amperage to run than the radio for example. You have a set of jumper cables? Try jump starting the X. If it starts, then it's probably your battery. A loose connection somewhere can also keep it from starting. The clicks might be the relay. The humming may be the fuel pump.

How's the water in the battery look? Any empty cells?

 

[EpicLeather]

Aaahhh, I checked and the cells seem relatively full, one is maybe a half inch lower than the rest, well I guess im taking a walk then, hopefully its the battery, ill report back here with any results.

 

[Mogman]

If you checked the battery with a volt meter, try using alligator clips to attach the test leads to the battery. Place the volt meter where you can see it while you engage the starter. See what the voltage does. If you have a significant drop, then it's likely the battery. If not, check connections in the circuit.

 

[EpicLeather]

Just got back from Advance Auto and the battery is good. Its not the normal clicks you get from a dead battery. You can not hear it from inside the vehicle, if you open the hood its more audible, and if your under the truck you can hear it clearly. So Im at a loss. >_< Any other suggestions? I really appreciate the help.

 

[EpicLeather]

Also I have been having some trouble getting it to kick into 1st gear (auto transmission) if it is cold. I have to let it warm up then it will kick in. I don't know if that is relevant to the situation or not.

 

[EpicLeather]

Probably dumb luck but I shifted it into R, N, D, 2, 1, and then back to P and it cranked after a second of turning the key. Much to my surprise (sarcastically mind you) when I shut it off it stayed dead and hasn't returned. Seriously considering hitting it with a rock at this point.

 

[Mogman]

Probably dumb luck but I shifted it into R, N, D, 2, 1, and then back to P and it cranked after a second of turning the key. Much to my surprise (sarcastically mind you) when I shut it off it stayed dead and hasn't returned. Seriously considering hitting it with a rock at this point.

Ok, that was where I was going next. The PNP switch or relay:

Power is supplied at all times
through 40A fusible link (letter e, located in the fuse and fusible link box)
to ignition switch terminal B.

With the ignition switch in the START position, power is supplied
through ignition switch terminal ST
to park/neutral position (PNP) relay terminal 5.

With the ignition switch in the ON or START position, power is supplied
through 10A fuse [No. 12, located in the fuse block (J/B)]
to PNP switch terminal 1 and
through 7.5A fuse [No. 5, located in the fuse block (J/B)]
to theft warning relay terminal 2 (models with power door locks).

With the selector lever in the P or N position, power is supplied
through PNP switch terminal 2
to PNP relay terminal 2.

If the theft warning system is not triggered (models with power door locks), ground is supplied
to PNP relay terminal 1
through body grounds E12 and E54 (models without power door locks) or
through theft warning relay terminals 3, 4 (models with power door locks) and
through body grounds M14 and M68.

The PNP relay is energized and power is supplied
through PNP relay terminal 3
to starter motor windings terminal +.

The starter motor plunger closes and provides a closed circuit between the battery and the starter motor.

The starter motor is grounded to the cylinder block. With power and ground supplied, the starter motor operates.

If the theft warning system is triggered (models with power door locks), ground is supplied to theft warning relay terminal 1 through smart entrance control unit terminal 32, disengaging the PNP relay and preventing starter motor operation.


http://www.nicoclub.com/FSM/Xterra/2000/sc.pdf
Basically the truck won't start if it doesn't think it's in Park or Neutral. If moving the gear selector helps, then suspect an intermittent PNP switch.

 

[EpicLeather]

Ah, well I checked and swapped the fuses and those seem fine, (still no start) I ran a scan with my OBD II and the code for a faulty switch didnt come up at all, actually it came up clean with the exception of Knock Sensor (325) which is faulty, I already changed that out (talk about a pain in the ass) and the code never went away even with two new ones. This one really is a head scratcher.

 

[M3C.CA]

I'm dealing with a very similar issue right now. About one time out of 5, the truck won't start. The starter clicks but the engine doesn't turn over. It seems to start every time if it's jumped. Battery tested good at a local parts shop. I thought it was the starter because one of the times it didn't start I whacked the starter a wrench and it seemed to start right away but that might have been coincidence...

Some knowledgeable guys I've talked to have me thinking it might be a loose connection somewhere but not quite sure how to locate the problem...

 

[Mogman]

Ah, well I checked and swapped the fuses and those seem fine, (still no start) I ran a scan with my OBD II and the code for a faulty switch didnt come up at all, actually it came up clean with the exception of Knock Sensor (325) which is faulty, I already changed that out (talk about a pain in the ass) and the code never went away even with two new ones. This one really is a head scratcher.

If there is a problem with the manual control linkage that controls it, it won't work properly; The switch may be fine, but the physical connection between your shifter and the switch may be off enough to cause issues.

Page AT-98 through AT-104 is troubleshooting:
http://www.nicoclub.com/FSM/Xterra/2000/at.pdf

There really isn't much to this system:

Starter motor / relay assy
PNP relay
PNP switch
Ignition switch
Theft warning relay
Battery
Wiring

With the ignition switch in the start position, the PNP switch energizes the PNP relay, which allows current to flow to the starter relay, which activates the starter motor. The wiring diagram is on page SC-11.

Your battery is good, your starter is new, your ignition switch works, your connections are good, but you know that working the gear shifter makes the problem go away. That's your hint.

 

[EpicLeather]

Ill check those out thank you for all the help! Unfortunately it only worked once, ive tried maybe 15 times since and nothing.

 

[NoWhining]

Haven't experienced this problem with the X (knock on wood) but that used to be an issue with the starter solenoid on older cars I've had. If percussive maintenance fixed it (hitting it with a hammer), then it usually was the solenoid itself. Often a grounding problem.

 

[Mogman]

lol, maybe you finally got a hard fail in a component! That's actually a good thing, as intermittent faults are the hardest to track down

 

[Mogman]

Haven't experienced this problem with the X (knock on wood) but that used to be an issue with the starter solenoid on older cars I've had. If percussive maintenance fixed it (hitting it with a hammer), then it usually was the solenoid itself. Often a grounding problem.

yes. Malletizing the starter relay can be helpful.

To the OP: you have to make double super secret sure that all your connections are good, including your grounds, and the wiring has to be corrosion free at the battery. If you don't find an issue with the PNP switch, check the PNP relay. If still no faults, go further into the security system.

 

[M3C.CA]

Solenoid is a likely candidate in my mind as well...

 

[EpicLeather]

got the starter and solenoid check by two places, it reads all good, I guess time to check the wires.

 

[EpicLeather]

So I checked the wires and Im getting voltage to to the connections. Im at a complete loss. Battery is good, Starter and solenoid are apparently good, fuses are good, bolts are tightly in place...