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Rick, you may have a point, but why change the oil when the problem changed after bleeding the hydraulics again?
Now the only problem is gear 2. No grinding, just some resistance pushing the stick-shift into 2nd gear.
What is causing this resistance? Why did the resistance go away on gear 1 and "R" after bleeding the hydraulics?

We are thinking about bleeding it again, using the clutch method. Not the vacuum pump.
Also, we looked at the Lucas 75-90 gear oil and it is $19 at the autostore.
It's just a suggestion. I really have no problem if you want to follow your instincts.
 

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$20 isn't too bad. Yes, you'll need 2 (so $40), but gear lube is a long term lubricant. I spend more than that on a home oil change using mobil1 (synthetic Oil is about $10-$12 per quart here). I'd definitely give the gear lube a change. If your fluid hasnt been changed since the transmission was repaired and it's been 50k miles then it is overdue. I like to change my manual tranny fluid out around 35k miles.
 

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Discussion Starter · #43 ·
OK... too cold this weekend... 25-30 degrees.

We may try the bleed again, then change the transmission fluid, Thanksgiving weekend.
I looked and see this at an Auto store. It says GL-4 So this is OK? Is Red Line a good brand?

or should we go with Lucas (I see on the picture of the Bottle, it says GL-5)



Red Line Synthetic Oil
Red Line Gear Oil GL-4 75W-90 1 Quart
Part # 50304 Line:
 

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$20 isn't too bad. Yes, you'll need 2 (so $40), but gear lube is a long term lubricant. I spend more than that on a home oil change using mobil1 (synthetic Oil is about $10-$12 per quart here). I'd definitely give the gear lube a change. If your fluid hasnt been changed since the transmission was repaired and it's been 50k miles then it is overdue. I like to change my manual tranny fluid out around 35k miles.
The 5 qt jug here in central Florida is or was recently $26 at Wally World.
 

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2003 Xterra XE 3.3, 5-speed Manual
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OK... too cold this weekend... 25-30 degrees.

We may try the bleed again, then change the transmission fluid, Thanksgiving weekend.
I looked and see this at an Auto store. It says GL-4 So this is OK? Is Red Line a good brand?

or should we go with Lucas (I see on the picture of the Bottle, it says GL-5)

There are many high quality oils that will perform exceptionally well. I don’t advocate for Redline over other brands. I am just saying Redline products have served me well over the years and I have been very happy with the Redline MT90 formulation in my manual transmissions. The MT90 is GL-4 and is formulated specifically for manual trannies. Some GL-5 oils (used in differentials) are too “slippery“ for manual transmission synchros and can affect proper synchro engagement. For what it is worth, I use Redline 75W90 gear oil (GL5) in my differentials.

Red Line Synthetic Oil
Red Line Gear Oil GL-4 75W-90 1 Quart
Part # 50304 Line:
 

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OK... too cold this weekend... 25-30 degrees.

We may try the bleed again, then change the transmission fluid, Thanksgiving weekend.
I looked and see this at an Auto store. It says GL-4 So this is OK? Is Red Line a good brand?

or should we go with Lucas (I see on the picture of the Bottle, it says GL-5)



Red Line Synthetic Oil
Red Line Gear Oil GL-4 75W-90 1 Quart
Part # 50304 Line:
GL-5 products are designed for rear differentials with slip loads. You don't want that in a manual transmission. Use GL-4 spec gear oil to assist synchro performance.
 

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Discussion Starter · #50 ·
That's what I am trying to pay attention to... NO GL-5 and NO Differential oil.

So if it says "gear oil".. that is for the differential?
I have to specifically look for "transmission 75w90" ?

I see some labels say "for GL-4 and GL-5". I cannot use anything that mentions GL-5... right?
 

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That's what I am trying to pay attention to... NO GL-5 and NO Differential oil.

So if it says "gear oil".. that is for the differential?
I have to specifically look for "transmission 75w90" ?

I see some labels say "for GL-4 and GL-5". I cannot use anything that mentions GL-5... right?
Correct. GL-4. I don't know your vehicle year specification for oil weight but just be sure to follow the highest number in that designation e.g. 90. The lower number might vary slightly but not the high number weight specification.
 

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Yes. GL4 is the way to go. If Lucas is GL5 I would skip it. I do admit that I've been using Royal Purple (which is GL4 GL5 compliant and states that it's synchro safe) for about 14 years or so with no problems, but that's because finding even non synthetic GL4 of the correct weight and viscosity here is pretty much impossible here in Puerto Rico.

The main reason for not using GL5 is that it has a higher sulfur content and will corrode the synchros and other yellow metal components.

I've heard really good things about Redline and wouldn't hesitate to use it if it was available to me here (I'd totally take it over the RP I use now for peace of mind).
 
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