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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
My mechanic can't even figure out what's wrong..... 2004 Nissan Xterra, 3.3 L, 2WD...
1 my vehicle was misfiring and losing power driving awful so
I got a complete tune up $600, including spark plug wires the mechanic was showing me that the 3 spark plugs on the drivers side were soaked gas very shortly after that I
Completely blew out rear driver side catalytic, took it to a muffler shop, $900 replacement
Still misfiring and pretty much Couldn't get it to drive over 35 MPH,
we assumed it was the catalytic in front of it $1,8oo replacement
Still misfiring driving home from the mechanics it completely stopped running let it sit for a minute it started again and not even a minute later it stalled again let it sit for a minute was able to get it started and barely drove it home at 15 miles an hour and parked it. The mechanic has no clue what's going on does anybody here have any suggestions on where he should start to look. He said the only code in his reader that is coming up is that there's a misfire.... duh.
I have a diagnostic reader of my own the only code I'm getting is for a rocking sensor . I don't know if that would cause a misfire and stalling or if that's a completely different issue.
I just started a new business and have to be mobile, all of my savings just went into replacing the two catalytics....... I am good with my hands and good with cars I'm hoping it might be something I can do my myself but I also don't know where to start.
 

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What do you mean blew out the catalytic? How did you know the Cat was bad?
Did they replace your fuel filter?
They throw O2 codes because the sensors that ground to the intake do not work right when the intake is not grounded. I ran some old speaker wire from the two grounds on my intake to where the negative battery terminal terminates on the passenger head, eliminated all the phantom O2 codes my Xterra was throwing.
Could be the fuel pump relay (that was my problem with similar stalling problem) 10$ used on ebay get an oem one. Knock sensor is just reporting unexpected shutdown shutter probably fine.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Oh when I say I blew out I mean blew out I looked under my car I didn't even know what I was looking at and all I saw was an open seam and that looks like it was about to give birth.... eventually even the honeycomb fell out, the lining, everything fell out somewhere along the road

 

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And the code I am getting is:
P0328 - High Value: Knock Sensor 1 Circuit
Wow Boom dumping gas wow never seen one like that!, Sounds like it is in safe mode and or the fuel pressure regulator has blown it's membrane. Take off the passeger side most vacuum hose at the back of the manifold close to the firewall and see if it drips fuel, if it does you need a new FPR
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Thank you guys for your help I'm heading to my mechanic now so I'm definitely going to give him these suggestions so maybe he will have a place to start
 

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(HAH I just read Xtre's reply. I agree)

I know I say this a lot on this forum, but here it is. I would check the Fuel Pressure Regulator. A bad FPR will dump un-metered fuel directly into the intake manifold. From there it dribbles into the #6 cylinder primarily (drivers side rear), but also to the other cylinders. It will cause misfires. It will cause wet plugs. It will cause difficult starting after it's been run and then sat for 10 minutes. It will cause smoke out the tail pipe. It will cause clogged and or burned out cats. Basically you will run super rich because the computer can't account for the extra fuel.

The good news is that it's easy and quick to test. There are two small (1/4" or so) vacuum lines coming off of the back of the intake manifold towards the passenger side. You'll have to climb up to see them. Turn your key on or run the engine for a few minutes to charge the fuel system then pop the one furthest to the passenger side off of the intake manifold. If any gas dribbles out then you need to replace the FPR. This is a problems that gets overlooks by many mechanics. If the engine is running be careful to not get any long hair or loose clothing caught in the belts (seen it happen more than I'd care to admit).

The downside is that the intake manifold needs to be removed to get to the FPR. Prices will vary from State to State etc. The part will cost about $100, but it also requires new gaskets for the intake manifold and if the valve cover gaskets have not been replaced then they should be done at the same time. With parts and labor I've seen estimates around $700.
 

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02 Nissan Xterra 3.3l V6 S/C 4x4 Auto
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Is the fuel pressure regulator different between supercharged and NA? I have to do driver side valve cover gasket so I was thinking about changing it out. Most of the parts on my 02 are original. Previous 2 owners were more concerned with looks than a finely tuned machine....
 

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I'm not sure if it's the exact same part on the SC, but I would think that it is since they try to keep as many parts common between trim levels in a model as they can for ease of inventory and manufacturing. Just look up your model year on RockAuto. Compare the SC and the normally aspirated part numbers. If they're the same then you have your answer.

It's kind of a judgement call. Mine was bad when I bought my 2003 about 4 years ago and it only had 68k miles at the time. There are plenty of X's out there with over 200k miles on them and the FPR is still going strong. If you want to change it for peace of mind and don't mind spending the $100 for the part then go for it. I generally try to only replace parts that are obviously worn of broken, though there are a few "while your in there parts" like the the valve cover gaskets.
 

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02 Nissan Xterra 3.3l V6 S/C 4x4 Auto
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I'm not sure if it's the exact same part on the SC, but I would think that it is since they try to keep as many parts common between trim levels in a model as they can for ease of inventory and manufacturing. Just look up your model year on RockAuto. Compare the SC and the normally aspirated part numbers. If they're the same then you have your answer.

It's kind of a judgement call. Mine was bad when I bought my 2003 about 4 years ago and it only had 68k miles at the time. There are plenty of X's out there with over 200k miles on them and the FPR is still going strong. If you want to change it for peace of mind and don't mind spending the $100 for the part then go for it. I generally try to only replace parts that are obviously worn of broken, though there are a few "while your in there parts" like the the valve cover gaskets.
Yeah I tried on rockauto and it keeps thinking I want a fuel filter. I checked on partsgeek and can get in for 80 walker/Delphi
 

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Check RockAuto again. I just looked it up. click the following:

Nissan
2002
Xterra
3.3L V6 Super Charged
Fuel & Air
Fuel Injection Pressure Regulator

The price for Walker is $46.79 and the price for Delphi is $64.79
Plus shipping of course.
 

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2002 Nissan Xterra 4x4 3.3L non supercharged
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The knock sensor can totaly cause it to run rough but I had the same issue and the knock sensor was bad because my plenum was leaking antifreeze in it and caused enough rust to make it fall apart. You can buy a decent bore camera for 15 bucks on eBay and check way down under the coolant bypass line it’s a real pain to take it off. I defantly think the knock sensor relocation is a must there is several YouTube vids showing how to do it. Be careful with that intake it’s aluminum and easily damaged
 

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2002 Nissan Xterra 4x4 3.3L non supercharged
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The knock sensor can totaly cause it to run rough but I had the same issue and the knock sensor was bad because my plenum was leaking antifreeze in it and caused enough rust to make it fall apart. You can buy a decent bore camera for 15 bucks on eBay and check way down under the coolant bypass line it’s a real pain to take it off. I defantly think the knock sensor relocation is a must there is several YouTube vids showing how to do it. Be careful with that intake it’s aluminum and easily damaged
O yea and if your cat was blown like that I would bet money your exhaust manifolds are cracked. I just replaced my manifolds with a set of headers and that deleted the cats but I don’t recommend that for you you already paid for new cats and it’s bad for the environment.
 

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Agreed, the knock sensor is important on the SC. Not only can it cause rough idle, but it generally will drop you into limp mode and you'll find you have very little power and the RPM will be limited.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Well, a third mechanic has told me he dosent know whats wrong, and said he wont get into it. So Im selling it. I vant believe I just bought 3 new Cats, for no reason......
 
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