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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
We need to discuss a critical flaw in 1st Gen Cooling systems. This applies to S/C and non S/C

A weak centrifugal radiator fan combined with single core radiators and the effects you see when an engine becomes heat sinked. Heat Sinking, this is important. The same heat sinking is a hot Z06 issue now with new Vettes going into limp mode from heat sink.

After long term testing, my results prove my modifications eliminated petty issues so commonly discussed.

In short, my Xterra has no more pre-ignition/knocking, my A/C cools better than any other 1st gen and engine performance is great if not better than the first 10 miles. I never chased down a knock sensor code(it has never thrown a code) but it did ping years ago on hot days under load, never had a cracked manifold and I would not be surprised to get 300k plus miles out of it with just regular maintenance. Better hot day city mileage.

I eliminated heat sink issues like this.
1) Dual electric fans, you can read the how to I posted in that forum
2) Dual core radiator upgrade, S/C's have them but heat sink and non 93 octane = pre-ignition
3) Inner front wheel well mud guard removal, allows heat to escape above the frame rails near the manifolds.

These changes have been road tested in all conditions on my X. I learned all about heat sink/pre-ignition years ago on a 69 Camaro SS/RS Z11, in those days, 110 octane gas cured it temporarily. Wish I still had that car, would love to wrench that cooling system to modern standards. On that Camaro, heat sink actually carbon caked oil in the manifold riser chamber below where the carbs were, inside and above the lifter valley which added to heat sink and made the carbs erratic on hot days. The simple belt fan and GM lack of foresight for a fan shroud made the cooling system almost useless. The Rochester quadrajet carb would get so hot, when parked after a run, the gas in the bowls vaporized out making hot day hot starts a joke.

Heat sink adds to internal sludge build up of your X, which leads to more heat sink because internal surfaces become coated. Stick a video scope in my valve covers and the internals glow motor oil gold. Zero sludge.

Start the discussion.....
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 · (Edited)
:nerd:Here comes the pain.

This post has a 1/4 million views about pre-ignition. http://www.clubxterra.org/forums/showthread.php?t=33205
And no disrespect to Xterra Mike, but you Moderators just might want to consider pulling that sticky. It is the most misleading advice on this forum.

Wrap your minds around that. Nissan, for whatever reason, created this problem.

And sorry guys, just quit with the knock sensor BS. That is a patch and a waste of time and money. It should piss every one of you off that chased that dead end. Engine is still undercooled and caking and sludging if still alive.

Or, you can hate me while my rig in 110 heat with A/C blowing frigid air don't ping one bit. But I fixed my cooling system. I saw all the issues others had years ago, I read every word, but I went back to the basics and fixed the root of the problem.

In what world does somebody screw with a knock sensor? Are you deaf? Mine was audible. Had I driven it hard, the SEL would have lit up. The post I cited above suggests you spend a few hours masking a knock sensor, unless you need a hearing aid, your engine still knocks. An engine that is knocking is overheated,
 
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