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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi :) Am hoping I can explain this right, bare with me. While stopped at a red light, when hit gas to go it felt like the tires were not catching or something was skipping if that makes sense. Got going on the highway, and check engine light flashed on, then right off. The RPM's were not keeping up and when I took my foot off the gas, would not slow down unless I hit the brakes. Recently had a full car inspection with some items fixed, but was told I needed to to replace spark plug tube seals..which I planned on doing as soon as I got the parts from Amazon. Could that be whats going on? Thank you for your time :)
 

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Hi :) Am hoping I can explain this right, bare with me. While stopped at a red light, when hit gas to go it felt like the tires were not catching or something was skipping if that makes sense. Got going on the highway, and check engine light flashed on, then right off. The RPM's were not keeping up and when I took my foot off the gas, would not slow down unless I hit the brakes. Recently had a full car inspection with some items fixed, but was told I needed to to replace spark plug tube seals..which I planned on doing as soon as I got the parts from Amazon. Could that be whats going on? Thank you for your time :)
I assume this vehicle is an automatic. Your symptoms don't match up with spark plug seals.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
I assume this vehicle is an automatic. Your symptoms don't match up with spark plug seals.
Yes it's auto, feel dumb for. not saying so. I just recently had all spark plugs changed, about 18 maths ago. Could it be electoral or battery, which is just a year old. Someone mentioned the Alternator ?
 

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Yes it's auto, feel dumb for. not saying so. I just recently had all spark plugs changed, about 18 maths ago. Could it be electoral or battery, which is just a year old. Someone mentioned the Alternator ?
Have you checked to see if any engine codes can be read from the OBDII port? Sounds more like drive line slipping symptoms, nothing really electrical at this point. Have you checked the level and condition of the transmission fluid? Has the transmission fluid ever been changed? Seems it must have a bunch of miles on this vehicle.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
It only has 117,000.00 milage. I will check the levels of all you mentioned. A neighbour said I should check to make sure squirrels or rats haven't gotten under the hood and chewed at something...sigh. I really appreciate you taking the time to help me. :)
 

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It only has 117,000.00 milage. I will check the levels of all you mentioned. A neighbor said I should check to make sure squirrels or rats haven't gotten under the hood and chewed at something...sigh. I really appreciate you taking the time to help me. :)
We are glad to help you the best we can. It is important than you share all of what you know about this issue. You are our eyes and ears. That's very low mileage for the year of the vehicle. What color is the transmission fluid? Does it smell burnt? It should be pink to light red. Also, after the engine and radiator have cooled down completely, open the radiator cap and look to see if the coolant looks contaminated with any other possible fluids. Concerned about the coolant and transmission fluid having got mixed in the radiator. That's a bad thing for the transmission.
 

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It only has 117,000.00 milage. I will check the levels of all you mentioned. A neighbour said I should check to make sure squirrels or rats haven't gotten under the hood and chewed at something...sigh. I really appreciate you taking the time to help me. :)
If you could read the part number off the sticker on the top of the radiator and pass that along to us that could be helpful in the process. Certain radiators are known to be failure parts.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
If you could read the part number off the sticker on the top of the radiator and pass that along to us that could be helpful in the process. Certain radiators are known to be failure parts.
Thank you :) I did have a bypass put in because of the issue of the leaking into the radiator about 7 years ago. I just checked the Transmission fuel and when I wiped it, it was black...yikes! I had a full flush done about 3 years ago.
Nissan PA66-CF25 -left of sticker. On sticker left side is 15020504-2 Calsonic North America - 21.460 EA265 -FO1055A07040. It's starting fine and when I checked the Rad, it was full to the top. Waiting on your reply.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Thank you :) I did have a bypass put in because of the issue of the leaking into the radiator about 7 years ago. I just checked the Transmission fuel and when I wiped it, it was black...yikes! I had a full flush done about 3 years ago.
Nissan PA66-CF25 -left of sticker. On sticker left side is 15020504-2 Calsonic North America - 21.460 EA265 -FO1055A07040. It's starting fine and when I checked the Rad, it was full to the top. Waiting on your reply.
I just read that I should have the engine running for a little bit before testing it. To be honest, when I looked at the dipstick, it was clear, I did not notice any colouring, and couldn't understand what the hot/cold gauges were about or how to read. when I checked the battery, there was a stock black tube encasing some wiring I assume that connects to the battery, it had busted open about 2 inches.
 

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Thank you :) I did have a bypass put in because of the issue of the leaking into the radiator about 7 years ago. I just checked the Transmission fuel and when I wiped it, it was black...yikes! I had a full flush done about 3 years ago.
Nissan PA66-CF25 -left of sticker. On sticker left side is 15020504-2 Calsonic North America - 21.460 EA265 -FO1055A07040. It's starting fine and when I checked the Rad, it was full to the top. Waiting on your reply.
Yes, the engine is supposed to be warmed up and running in park when you check the transmission fluid. If the black fluid is low in the transmission you will definitely want to get that Full Flush done again right away. If you are seeing very low level on the dipstick for the transmission it would be good to add new fluid just to get in to proper range for driving around to get that transmission fluid flush done. Good news that you had that bypass done on the cooling for the transmission.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Yes, the engine is supposed to be warmed up and running in park when you check the transmission fluid. If the black fluid is low in the transmission you will definitely want to get that Full Flush done again right away. If you are seeing very low level on the dipstick for the transmission it would be good to add new fluid just to get in to proper range for driving around to get that transmission fluid flush done. Good news that you had that bypass done on the cooling for the transmission.
Yes, the engine is supposed to be warmed up and running in park when you check the transmission fluid. If the black fluid is low in the transmission you will definitely want to get that Full Flush done again right away. If you are seeing very low level on the dipstick for the transmission it would be good to add new fluid just to get in to proper range for driving around to get that transmission fluid flush done. Good news that you had that bypass done on the cooling for the transmission.
Thank you so much, I've been on the phone with a Transmission Auto shop and explained my problem and said I'd like new transmission fluid, or a flush. He asked me to explain my symptoms, which I did as I did here. He totally disregarded your advice, and said the fluid is the least of my problem and to just pretty much ignore it and worry about whats going on with the engine! I said it was black, he still didn't care and told me it was fine...I say WHAT. I'm going to get a scan to be sure, but I can't help but feel this guy wanted me to ruin my transmission! I'm such a cynic. If he wasn't so adamant about steering me away from a flush or refill..I don't think I'd be so suspicious.
 

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Thank you so much, I've been on the phone with a Transmission Auto shop and explained my problem and said I'd like new transmission fluid, or a flush. He asked me to explain my symptoms, which I did as I did here. He totally disregarded your advice, and said the fluid is the least of my problem and to just pretty much ignore it and worry about whats going on with the engine! I said it was black, he still didn't care and told me it was fine...I say WHAT. I'm going to get a scan to be sure, but I can't help but feel this guy wanted me to ruin my transmission! I'm such a cynic. If he wasn't so adamant about steering me away from a flush or refill..I don't think I'd be so suspicious.
You are right to be suspicious and walk away from a shop like that. Do you have a Nissan dealership close enough to you to get their opinion?
 

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Thank you :) I did have a bypass put in because of the issue of the leaking into the radiator about 7 years ago. I just checked the Transmission fuel and when I wiped it, it was black...yikes! I had a full flush done about 3 years ago.
Nissan PA66-CF25 -left of sticker. On sticker left side is 15020504-2 Calsonic North America - 21.460 EA265 -FO1055A07040. It's starting fine and when I checked the Rad, it was full to the top. Waiting on your reply.
Here is the discussion and listing of the SMOD radiators: You are bypassed but know that your radiator is on the list.
According to CourtesyParts | Genuine OEM Nissan Parts & Accessories and other Nissan parts dealers, the following is the progression of OEM Calsonic radiators for the Xterra, with the years for each particular part number culled from TheNewX posts in brackets:

21410-EA200 [seldom referenced, but may have been installed in some very early 2005’s.]

21410-EA205 [2005 – either 2/09 or 8/09. Listed on some parts websites as P/N 21460-EA205. There is some confusion as to when these were used. Some literature states until 2/09 and other literature states 8/09. P/N IS ASSOCIATED WITH SMOD. ]

21460-EA215 [2005 - either 2/09 until 8/09, see above. Listed as discontinued and replaced by 21460-9CAOE on Nissan parts websites. P/N IS ASSOCIATED WITH SMOD]

21460-EA265 [production dates unknown other @Surf and Snow's Xterra built in 04/05 and my own Xterra built in 09/05. P/N IS ASSOCIATED WITH SMOD.]

21460-ZL11A [8/09 through 2010 model year, isolated reports of SMOD, however I have not been able to verify.]

21460-ZL31A [production dates unknown. Listed as discontinued on Nissan parts websites , no known reports of SMOD.]

21460-9CAOE [2011 – 2015 model years – no known reports of SMOD] This is the part number for the most current version as of 11/16.
 

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Thank you so much, I've been on the phone with a Transmission Auto shop and explained my problem and said I'd like new transmission fluid, or a flush. He asked me to explain my symptoms, which I did as I did here. He totally disregarded your advice, and said the fluid is the least of my problem and to just pretty much ignore it and worry about whats going on with the engine! I said it was black, he still didn't care and told me it was fine...I say WHAT. I'm going to get a scan to be sure, but I can't help but feel this guy wanted me to ruin my transmission! I'm such a cynic. If he wasn't so adamant about steering me away from a flush or refill..I don't think I'd be so suspicious.
Trans fluid should never be black.

Period.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Thank you all so much for your time!! I didn’t think so either, back to that in a second. I had a mobile mechanic come over and he did a scan, the codes P1800 and P0335. He noticed it might be a vacuum seal issue. He was able to clear the codes, because the engine light didn't
Stay on, it just flashed quickly, he it shouldn’t come back unless it was serious. So I asked if it was the crank shaft sensor, as I researched the most common codes on the Xterra. my car started just fine after that and I went and did a quick shop. After about 30 mins I go to start my car and it just wouldn’t turn over just t like the first incident until a few times pumping the gas..4 tries but got it home.
I called and let him know, he asked if I had bad gas maybe? I gas up at Esso. And the crank sensor should stop my car from starting. Could someone have put something in my gas tank? Sighhh. He said he would be back today, but didn’t show. I just want to know what to tell the shop I take it to.
P.S He said the fluid was a bit low but didn’t say anything about it being a bit dark..
 

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Thank you all so much for your time!! I didn’t think so either, back to that in a second. I had a mobile mechanic come over and he did a scan, the codes P1800 and P0335. He noticed it might be a vacuum seal issue. He was able to clear the codes, because the engine light didn't
Stay on, it just flashed quickly, he it shouldn’t come back unless it was serious. So I asked if it was the crank shaft sensor, as I researched the most common codes on the Xterra. my car started just fine after that and I went and did a quick shop. After about 30 mins I go to start my car and it just wouldn’t turn over just t like the first incident until a few times pumping the gas..4 tries but got it home.
I called and let him know, he asked if I had bad gas maybe? I gas up at Esso. And the crank sensor should stop my car from starting. Could someone have put something in my gas tank? Sighhh. He said he would be back today, but didn’t show. I just want to know what to tell the shop I take it to.
P.S He said the fluid was a bit low but didn’t say anything about it being a bit dark..
The P0335 code is for the Crankshaft position sensor. That failure can be intermittent due to heat of the engine and will come an go. You should definitely be getting that replaced pronto.
The 1800 code is related to the engines "Variable intake air system" that is located on the top side of the motor and is controlled with rubber vacuum hoses. You could take a look for cracked, broken vacuum hoses there and for one that may have even fell off for whatever reason. Fix the 335 and move on from there.
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
The P0335 code is for the Crankshaft position sensor. That failure can be intermittent due to heat of the engine and will come an go. You should definitely be getting that replaced pronto.
The 1800 code is related to the engines "Variable intake air system" that is located on the top side of the motor and is controlled with rubber vacuum hoses. You could take a look for cracked, broken vacuum hoses there and for one that may have even fell off for whatever reason. Fix the 335 and move on from there.
Great! To get an reply for this. How long should that repair take, it looks simple from the video on YT. I know shops have a book that suggest the time it takes, but those tend to go a little overboard most of the time.
 

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Great! To get an reply for this. How long should that repair take, it looks simple from the video on YT. I know shops have a book that suggest the time it takes, but those tend to go a little overboard most of the time.
It shouldn't be a big repair. I would think they would charge 1 or maybe 2 hours but not likely more than that. The link below shows the small sensor part that is installed on the oil pan under the motor. It should be a fairly simple replacement. Check page EC-299 in the document.
Factory Service Manuals - NICOclub
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
It shouldn't be a big repair. I would think they would charge 1 or maybe 2 hours but not likely more than that. The link below shows the small sensor part that is installed on the oil pan under the motor. It should be a fairly simple replacement. Check page EC-299 in the document.
Factory Service Manuals - NICOclub
Wow Thank you for that! I cant make hide nor hare of it, but it’s handy to have!
 
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