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Ok, after much reading around these forums I'm going to put my issue out there and pick some of the brains around here. I recently (around April of 09) had some work done to the engine from the local Nissan dealership here. The timing belts were changed, radiator hoses replaced, etc. I don't have the sheet to list all the work done. The engine had been overheating so that was the cause to take it in. Now as recent as yesterday the check engine light came on. Went down to Autozone and had them pull the codes and the print outs they gave me listed these three code descriptions:

1 EVAP control system gross leak detected
2 EVAP Canister vent control valve (open)
3 Knock Sensor Circuit high input (this seems to be a common code)

My question is what should I look for without going back to the dealership. That will be too costly for my budget and is it something I can just reset and go on my merry way? I've checked the gas cap and tightened it, added fuel and the gauge seems to be working fine, light is still on. I don't see any leaks around my garage, fluids are all fine, oil is fine. Just not sure how to proceed. Thanks for any input.
 

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I didn't think so. It had been at least a week or more since putting gas in. I've retightened it. I just don't want to have to pay a high price for a test to find the leak. What are the correct ways other than using a code reader to reset the light. I'd like to reset it and see if it comes back on now that the cap has been tightened.
 

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you can disconnect the battery for 30 min and it will reset but if thats not the problem the light will return.
 

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the first 2 codes you mentioned are both associated with a bad gas cap... the next one unless you have the S/C motor you really dont need to worry about it...
 

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Discussion Starter #6
That's what I was hoping for. The Autozone printout mentions that along with other causes. Does unhooking the positie cable on the battery for 30 minutes really reset it. I've seen conflicting opinions.
 

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Yeah, I would not worry about it. The only reason your CEL is on is because of those EVAP codes.
 

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how come the knock sensor code is only an issue with the sc models? can this make the supercharger stop working completely?
 

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Yeah, I would not worry about it. The only reason your CEL is on is because of those EVAP codes.
x2 on that

The evap codes are for the charcoal canister and its vent valve, which affects nothing except emission control. If you can stand having the SES light on all the time, you don`t need to worry about the canister untill you need to get another emissions test.
 

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how come the knock sensor code is only an issue with the sc models? can this make the supercharger stop working completely?
It doesn`t make it stop entirely, but it drops your maximum boost pressure from 5-6 psi to 1-2 psi.

If the ECU on the supercharged engine detects a fault with the knock sensor, it goes into failsafe mode to prevent damage from irregular combustion.

It cuts your boost, and on the automatics it seems to govern the engine to 3000 rpm as well.
 

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try putting vasoline around the seal of the gas cap, this will eliminate that problem from your check list. not sure where your @ in the country, but the heat and humidity will cause the seals on the gas cap to crack. the vasoline will keep that seal moisturized.
 

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I had those codes previously. The EVAP codes came up because I had a locking cap on there that wasn't working. Can you smell fuel while you're driving?

I had the knock sensor as well. I think it was an old code that came up because they never cleared them previously. I cleared the codes and put the OEM cap back on. Light never came back on.

Do you have access to an OBD scanner so you can clear the codes?
 

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I currently have two codes for the Evap system, the vent control valve, and EVAP system very small leak.

I would also think that if replacing the gas cap doesn't take care of the Evap Gross Leak code, then it's probably just a vacuum line that has cracked or fallen off.

The charcoal canister is in a terribly unprotected spot on the first-gens.

It's it behind the rear axle, attached to the frame, close to the spare tire hangar, so it is exposed to all kinds of dust and debris.

I think when I need to get my charcoal canister replaced for my e-test, I will put a shroud over it to protect it from dust and salt.
 

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If it's not the cap then it's either the canister or a leak in a hose. When you fill up at the gas pump, do you just let it stop pumping or do you try and top it off?
 

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Ironically i am having some codes pop up for me now....
p0328-knock sensor
p0441-purge flow
p0455-gross evap leak.

They dealership told me i need a new pcm/ecm?
Does this make sense. I was told these codes are just secondary codes to the pcm is not supplying ground to system.

And my xterra is from canada would the pcm/ecm be different for the xterras made in US then the ones from canada?
 

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i think it should be the same. i didnt know they made x in canada. i thought they only had one plant in us.
 

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Ya i guess not, i got this x for a good deal. My odometer is in km and so is my speedometer. Throws off my parents when they drive it to haul stuff.

The dealership told me it was different and went into this huge story that there is nohting i can do about it and its 1100 bucks to fix...
 

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Check the hoses behind the heatshield in the front passenger wheel well. See if any of those are broken.

Have you had a body lift done?
 
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