Nissan XTerra Forum banner
41 - 56 of 56 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
43 Posts
Replaced both the relay and the dizzy today and still no change. Rough idle and not wanting to start very well after the engine reaches 180.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
160 Posts
Replaced both the relay and the dizzy today and still no change. Rough idle and not wanting to start very well after the engine reaches 180.
Lame getting any codes? you could also try the 2 temp sensors at the front left of the engine bay.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
43 Posts
Lame getting any codes? you could also try the 2 temp sensors at the front left of the engine bay.
No codes at all.
Temp or fuel is what I’m leaning towards. Does anyone know what temp the xterra will shut itself off at? It seems that once I get to 185° the stalling will occur. However my temp gauge doesn’t get up to High.
The two temp sensors, can I test those are should I just replace them?
 

·
Registered
2015 Xterra Pro-4X
Joined
·
1,968 Posts
No codes at all.
Temp or fuel is what I’m leaning towards. Does anyone know what temp the xterra will shut itself off at? It seems that once I get to 185° the stalling will occur. However my temp gauge doesn’t get up to High.
The two temp sensors, can I test those are should I just replace them?
If you haven't already, check your temp sensor connections for clean and tight. Maybe someone with another gen 1 can read the resistance of a cold temp sensor and let you know for reference.
 

·
Registered
2004 Xterra XE 4WD Auto 3.3L NA V6
Joined
·
2,553 Posts
If you haven't already, check your temp sensor connections for clean and tight. Maybe someone with another gen 1 can read the resistance of a cold temp sensor and let you know for reference.
Great idea! So glad I thought of it (after reading your remark... ;)).

On my 2004, at room temperature, with the meter on the 6K setting:
  • the single-terminal sensor from the terminal to ground shows 2,536Ω
  • the 2-terminal sensor shows 2,205Ω across the 2 terminals, and no connection to ground
 

·
Registered
2015 Xterra Pro-4X
Joined
·
1,968 Posts
Great idea! So glad I thought of it (after reading your remark... ;)).

On my 2004, at room temperature, with the meter on the 6K setting:
  • the single-terminal sensor from the terminal to ground shows 2,536Ω
  • the 2-terminal sensor shows 2,205Ω across the 2 terminals, and no connection to ground
Good show. That should let him know if he's in the ball bark or at the concession with mustard on his new shirt.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
160 Posts
No codes at all.
Temp or fuel is what I’m leaning towards. Does anyone know what temp the xterra will shut itself off at? It seems that once I get to 185° the stalling will occur. However my temp gauge doesn’t get up to High.
The two temp sensors, can I test those are should I just replace them?
Weird there are no codes?! I know it's frustrating throwing parts at it but you can just add them to your spare parts inventory or you could test them I was lucky it was not my main vehicle and I could wait for cheap quality parts off ebay...Another culprit is the intake manifold when the engine reaches operating temp the thermo spring will adjust the idle see the two cables where they sit on the half cam pulleys could also be something to look at...Also there are two servos on the driver fender well near the brake reservoir one for evap and the other I forget but I was sure that it had some action upon engine temp normalization as I was experimenting with unplugging them with mild success(probably just dumb luck in retrospect)
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
43 Posts
Ok I replaced one of the temp sensors, the one with the two prong connection, not the spanner one.
Today the car is now doing new things.. when driving around and after warming up. I will suddenly loose power randomly. RPMs will drop from 2500 to 1500 just driving around. It goes into limp mode. The pedal goes soft and the car limps along until I shift it into neutral, rev back up to 2500, and then shift it into drive.
Temp is reading 187 on the OBDII while idling.
I’m really at a loss y’all.
 

·
Registered
2004 Xterra XE 4WD Auto 3.3L NA V6
Joined
·
2,553 Posts
I have a 180* t-stat and mine runs around 190-194, both at idle and on the highway, so 187 is fine.

What trouble codes are present?

What do you mean by "the pedal goes soft"? The throttle is a physical cable, not DBW, so if the feeling of the pedal changes, that would be odd.

When you say "it goes into limp mode", is that just a figure of speech you're using to describe it, or do you get a message saying something like "Engine Power Reduced"?

When was the last time you checked or changed the trans fluid?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
43 Posts
No codes are present.
Limp mode as in I’ll be driving at 2500 rpm’s and suddenly the RPMs dip to 1500 and the gas pedal feels less stiff. I have to push the gas pedal in more to keep up the speed. It’s almost like something just goes out.

I’ve drained and filled the transmission about a year ago. Checked transmission fluid a few weeks ago and it was clean and filled. The transmission never has shifted hard aside from 1st into 2nd at times. Very rare though.

Edit:
Just now as I waited for it to warm up. I have my scanner plugged in and the car starts to kind of choke at 183° I see that fuelsys1 and fuelsys2 both flash “ol-fault”. Then they go back to “CL” and the xterra goes back to idling smoother.
 

·
Registered
2004 Xterra XE 4WD Auto 3.3L NA V6
Joined
·
2,553 Posts
Hmmm, those letters "OL" are not good. On my DVOM it means "no value" or "outside of limits". It probably means similar on the OBD readout.

You might have found the source of the issue, or possibly one of multiple things causing it. Take care of one, then keep watching for improvement or some other issue.
 

·
Registered
2015 Xterra Pro-4X
Joined
·
1,968 Posts
No codes are present.
Limp mode as in I’ll be driving at 2500 rpm’s and suddenly the RPMs dip to 1500 and the gas pedal feels less stiff. I have to push the gas pedal in more to keep up the speed. It’s almost like something just goes out.

I’ve drained and filled the transmission about a year ago. Checked transmission fluid a few weeks ago and it was clean and filled. The transmission never has shifted hard aside from 1st into 2nd at times. Very rare though.

Edit:
Just now as I waited for it to warm up. I have my scanner plugged in and the car starts to kind of choke at 183° I see that fuelsys1 and fuelsys2 both flash “ol-fault”. Then they go back to “CL” and the xterra goes back to idling smoother.
FUELSYS1 OL-FAULT - Nissan Forum | Nissan Forums (nicoclub.com)
Some light reading that I hope you find helpful.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
43 Posts
OL on that means offline.

About the same as the DVOM, but different at the same time.
I was under the impression that OL means Open Loop. And that something is telling the system to run more rich/lean. Based on some of the threads that were linked above I could have clogged cats or bad O2 sensors. No codes for O2 sensors so I’m not sure if they are the culprit.
 

·
Registered
2015 Xterra Pro-4X
Joined
·
1,968 Posts
Ok I replaced one of the temp sensors, the one with the two prong connection, not the spanner one.
Today the car is now doing new things.. when driving around and after warming up. I will suddenly loose power randomly. RPMs will drop from 2500 to 1500 just driving around. It goes into limp mode. The pedal goes soft and the car limps along until I shift it into neutral, rev back up to 2500, and then shift it into drive.
Temp is reading 187 on the OBDII while idling.
I’m really at a loss y’all.
You replaced one of the two temp sensors and say the problem is not solved. I'm curious as to why you have lost the scent and not continued with the 2nd sensor if the original problem is seemingly related to temperature. Did you test the resistance of your temp sensors and compare to those numbers provided by "metoo"?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
160 Posts
Ok I replaced one of the temp sensors, the one with the two prong connection, not the spanner one.
Today the car is now doing new things.. when driving around
Hmm very similar to what mine was doing with open loop closed loop that is what lead me to the grounds at the intake manifold there are two of them farther back on the passenger side of the top intake. These ground the O2 and Tcm (and a lot more, garbage in garbage out) there is a tsp to run wire from the two grounds to the passenger side head where the negative battery terminates.
 
41 - 56 of 56 Posts
Top