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Discussion Starter · #21 ·
So I cheked out the connections to the fuel sending unit and mine seems to be damaged. Could this be the reason my car dies after warming up?

If so I have a new one arriving tomorrow. Would packing it with a non-conductive grease possibly fix the issue? I still intend to replace it, just wondering.
 

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Discussion Starter · #22 ·
nope, check with the dealer in your locale they will need your vin and can give you a bit more info about recalls that have been done to it, if say the fuel sending unit has a recall, they fixed it and it fails again they maybe on the hook to fix it again.
I update the article with a picture of the top of the fuel sending unit. I believe it is corroded.
 

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Discussion Starter · #23 ·
I'm pretty sure that recall affects your xterra. How long have you had your Xterra? my fuel sending unit went bad in 2009 under my father before I even started driving. I don't think the unit itself goes bad it's just the connector at the top the gets corroded and breaks.
I have had the xterra since 2010. I updated the article with a picture of the fuel sending unit connection.
 

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I have had the xterra since 2010. I updated the article with a picture of the fuel sending unit connection.
hm, that connector looks fine, i wonder if its issue is as it runs down into the electrical parts inside....
 

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I had a similar problem with my 2007 Xterra with 90,000 miles. The problem was a faulty camshaft position sensor.
yes, thats common on 2nd gens but his is a 2001 completely different motor setup, not saying it couldnt be this sensor but less likely on the 00-04s though by now its 17-18 years old and the magnet in the sensor could be weak and not sending the correct signal all the time. usually these will throw a very specific code though and dont cause the cel to flash as he was getting.
 

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Discussion Starter · #27 ·
yes, thats common on 2nd gens but his is a 2001 completely different motor setup, not saying it couldnt be this sensor but less likely on the 00-04s though by now its 17-18 years old and the magnet in the sensor could be weak and not sending the correct signal all the time. usually these will throw a very specific code though and dont cause the cel to flash as he was getting.
My CEL light is not on so who knows. It would not start again today so I had it towed to a shop today. I will update if/when a solution is found.
 

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My CEL light is not on so who knows. It would not start again today so I had it towed to a shop today. I will update if/when a solution is found.
how far/long have you drive between the no starts when it would start? it may not have had sufficient time or mileage to throw the code yet. sometimes shops are best bet when you've exhausted everything you know to do. may cost more but should come out fixed. you said you recently had the timing belt changed right? and he distributor looked good? if so it could still eb a distributor issue, they have the cam sensor in them and these go bad occasionally, no way to test except new distributor that i know of. were you getting any dash warning lights such as thew voltage light or oil pressure when it would run?
 

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Discussion Starter · #29 ·
how far/long have you drive between the no starts when it would start? it may not have had sufficient time or mileage to throw the code yet. sometimes shops are best bet when you've exhausted everything you know to do. may cost more but should come out fixed. you said you recently had the timing belt changed right? and he distributor looked good? if so it could still eb a distributor issue, they have the cam sensor in them and these go bad occasionally, no way to test except new distributor that i know of. were you getting any dash warning lights such as thew voltage light or oil pressure when it would run?
I did not drive between the no starts. I would start it and let it idle until it would die. ~10mins.

I replaced the Distibuter, MAF, Coolant Temp Sensor, Fuel Filter and Plugs last week. The mechanics called on Friday and said they were having issues with the fuel pump and it eventually failed. I brought them a new one along with the Fuel Sending Unit and they replaced them. They said after a good test drive the car died while idling and now they cant keep it running. They said they will continue to troubleshoot on monday.

I had the timing belt and water pump changed about (25k miles ago) ~4 years.
 

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how far/long have you drive between the no starts when it would start? it may not have had sufficient time or mileage to throw the code yet. sometimes shops are best bet when you've exhausted everything you know to do. may cost more but should come out fixed. you said you recently had the timing belt changed right? and he distributor looked good? if so it could still eb a distributor issue, they have the cam sensor in them and these go bad occasionally, no way to test except new distributor that i know of. were you getting any dash warning lights such as thew voltage light or oil pressure when it would run?
I did not drive between the no starts. I would start it and let it idle until it would die. ~10mins.

I replaced the Distibuter, MAF, Coolant Temp Sensor, Fuel Filter and Plugs last week. The mechanics called on Friday and said they were having issues with the fuel pump and it eventually failed. I brought them a new one along with the Fuel Sending Unit and they replaced them. They said after a good test drive the car died while idling and now they cant keep it running. They said they will continue to troubleshoot on monday.

I had the timing belt and water pump changed about (25k miles ago) ~4 years.
very odd, you are running out of things to change that leads me to think it maybe the ecu beginning to fail....
 

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Discussion Starter · #31 ·
very odd, you are running out of things to change that leads me to think it maybe the ecu beginning to fail....
So the problem was the Fuel Sending Unit and the Fuel Pump. The issue they encountered after was the new MAF sensor I put in the car while throwing parts at is was bad. They put my old stock MAF in and the car runs like new. Thank you for all of your help and I hope this thread helps someone else.
 

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Interesting, that sending until plug looked good, must have had internal issues
 

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So the problem was the Fuel Sending Unit and the Fuel Pump. The issue they encountered after was the new MAF sensor I put in the car while throwing parts at is was bad. They put my old stock MAF in and the car runs like new. Thank you for all of your help and I hope this thread helps someone else.
Did you ever have more issues?
Chasing down a gremlin much like this
with my scanner on live data idling I saw
FUELSYS1-CL
FUELSYS2-CL
every once in a while I noticed on FUELSYS1 or 2 the CL would change to OL-FAULT but not a the same time, maybe when she stalls both go to OL-FAULT?
FUELSYS1 OL-FAULT
FUELSYS2 OL-FAULT= stall?
anyway the codes I got were
P0134
O2 sensor Circuit no activity
Detected bank 1 Sensor 1
P0154
O2 sensor Circuit no activity
Detected bank 2 Sensor 1
P0155
O2 sensor heater Circuit
Bank 2 Sensor 1
I will clean my maf and brush up my grounds and check the fuel sender for corrosion and a possible ground fault, thank you for your posting! O2 sensors on the way
(edit my problem was there is a tsb on how to ground intake to the head I did that and no more o2 codes, my problem was an el cheapo fuel pump relay that sits on top of the E brake, running great now that I replaced it with a nissan one from ebay!
 

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I noticed using my OBD scanner that my engine would stall when the coolant temperature reached ~185F. I would then let if cool down and start it again and same issue. I replaced the Coolant Temperature Sensor but no change in symptoms. This makes me think the issue has something to do with heat as its around the same temperature when the car stalls. Any thoughts?
resurrecting an old thread I know…
However. I have a 2003 Xterra. 220k or so, and I am experiencing the same exact thing.
I can sit there with the scanner and watch the temp creep. Once it’s 180-188 the engine will stall while idling. Even in the garage under no load. So far I’ve replaced the following.

  • fuel filter
  • fuel pump
  • fuel sending unit
  • spark plugs
  • bad fuel injectors (I was hoping this would solve it)
  • air filter
  • MAF sensor
  • crank shaft sensor

no luck for me on my end. I’ve checked for vacuum leaks multiple times all over and around the intake manifold. I’ve cleaned the throttle body and tried injector cleaner. Still no luck.
My distributor looks fairly new, maybe it was replaced before I got the vehicle last year. I checked for spark by taking each plug out and testing it. I think the distributor is fine, I did order one just to replace it and see.

at this point I’m running out of things to test or replace and so far nothing has worked or even made a difference.
Any thoughts or ideas would be super appreciated.

The car drives great when it’s started and around town until it warms up. Then it starts to idle harder and stall when sitting at a stop
 

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What is the engine speed when idling in Park/Neutral, both when cold and when warmed up? You could have a warm-idle adjustment that's off a bit.
 

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resurrecting an old thread I know…
However. I have a 2003 Xterra. 220k or so, and I am experiencing the same exact thing.
I can sit there with the scanner and watch the temp creep. Once it’s 180-188 the engine will stall while idling. Even in the garage under no load. So far I’ve replaced the following.

  • fuel filter
  • fuel pump
  • fuel sending unit
  • spark plugs
  • bad fuel injectors (I was hoping this would solve it)
  • air filter
  • MAF sensor
  • crank shaft sensor

no luck for me on my end. I’ve checked for vacuum leaks multiple times all over and around the intake manifold. I’ve cleaned the throttle body and tried injector cleaner. Still no luck.
My distributor looks fairly new, maybe it was replaced before I got the vehicle last year. I checked for spark by taking each plug out and testing it. I think the distributor is fine, I did order one just to replace it and see.

at this point I’m running out of things to test or replace and so far nothing has worked or even made a difference.
Any thoughts or ideas would be super appreciated.

The car drives great when it’s started and around town until it warms up. Then it starts to idle harder and stall when sitting at a stop
Had exact same problem it was the Fuel Pump relay sits above drivers right knee got an oem one off ebay for 10$
 

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When cold (66°)
  • 1125 rpms in park
  • 863 rpms when shifted into drive

When hot (184°)
  • 700 rpms in park
  • 575 rpms when shifted into drive
 
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