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#1 Old 01-15-2013, 08:38 AM
Delanoso
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New X for old X

Traded in my 2002 SE V6 on a 2012 S 4X4 this past weekend. Pictures to come after this weekend when I go get it muddy.

Since I've owned an X for 10 years, I sort of know what to expect. The main difference between the old and new is 4X4--this is the first I've owned and I want to be careful with the drive train. Any hints for me (other than the obvious "Don't run 4WD on dry pavement")?
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#2 Old 01-15-2013, 11:07 AM
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Welcome to the club!

Definitely post those shots once it's all muddied up.

As far as hints go... the only big issues I ever run into with my 2nd gen are usually related to the cooling system. Keep it clean, free from gunky build up, use distilled filtered water when pouring water into the radiator instead of tap water.

Have fun with your new toy and we'll see you around!
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#3 Old 01-15-2013, 11:35 AM
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There is a "procedure" to engaging and disengaging the 4x4, and the 2nd Gen is sort of particular that you follow that.

Read the manual and get the hang of it, it will go right in and out if you do the steps in order, but if you do it the first time trial and error you may freak out thinking it's not working.

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#4 Old 01-16-2013, 03:29 AM
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Hi and welcome to Club X
After a short break in, replace all the oils with synthetic oils. It basically stops wear. Can't beat that for the price!

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V6 SE 4X4 5spd Build and 00 Silver auto SE 4X4http://www.clubxterra.org/forums/showthread.php?t=26084

Raise TBs (X), paint plastics (X), Replace radiator with one that is bigger and will last (X), install roof lights (X), IAB (X), better tires (X), shackles in rear(X), remove rear sway bar (X), Bilsteins (X)
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#5 Old 01-16-2013, 07:03 AM
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Thanks y'all!

Revu, I had some ongoing cooling system issues with my 1st gen, which as one of the reasons I traded it in. Just didn't see ever being able to get it completely corrected. Distilled, bottled water then? Not filtered tap?
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#6 Old 01-16-2013, 07:05 AM
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Airmapper, the proceedure you mentioned is really my biggest question. I found the manuals here and I have mine in the truck for reference but I'd love some direction from experience. The manual tries to handle both automatic and manual transmissions at the same time, which makes picking out my manual tranny process out more complicated. So:

- 4HI
1 Slow down (what speed?) or stop
2 Clutch depressed/tranny disengaged
3 Turn switch to 4HI
4 Re-engage clutch?

- 4LO
1 Stop
2 Tranny in neutral/clutch depressed
3 Turn switch to 4HI
4 Push switch in and turn to 4LO
5 Re-engage clutch?

What about going back to 2WD? Can I just let 'er fly since I'll be traveling slow in 4WD anyway? Didn't see anything in the manual about it.
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#7 Old 01-16-2013, 07:09 AM
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Itsme, I ran synthetic motor oil in my 1st gen the last 3 or 4 years. Are you talking about using synthetics in the rest of the drive train too? Is that what most people do?
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#8 Old 01-16-2013, 09:55 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Delanoso View Post
What about going back to 2WD? Can I just let 'er fly since I'll be traveling slow in 4WD anyway? Didn't see anything in the manual about it.
- 4HI
1 Slow down (what speed?) [Not sure speed, under 62 is all I could find for 4HI operation, but complete stop not needed. I'd be under 40 to stay on the safe side, slower the better. Actually it seems to help if you are moving, as long as all 4 wheels are moving together, not spinning out or turning.]
2 Clutch depressed/tranny disengaged Not necessary. Try to avoid use of the clutch during the transfer. You can be in or out of gear, clutch in or out, just hold what you got during the transfer. If you have to move something, you have to, but try to avoid being in the situation you need to. If in doubt, clutch out, that releases the drive train from engine influence.
3 Turn switch to 4HI
4 Re-engage clutch? Not necessary.

Basically 2HI to 4HI and back can be done "on the fly." Long as you are moving in a straight line and all 4 wheels are turning the same speed, it will shift in and out quick and easy. It will do it stopped but you may have to move some for it to completely engage. Just take off delicately enough to start rolling forward or back, reverse seems to work a little better.

- 4LO (Be in 4HI first. I usually go into 4HI as I roll to a stop to go into 4LO)
1 Stop
2 Tranny in neutral/clutch depressed
3 Push switch in and turn to 4LO
4 Watch dash indicator for 4LO and wheels to turn black. Flashing indicators stay solid.

Coming out of 4LO
1 Stop
2 Tranny in neutral/clutch depressed
3 Push switch in and turn back to 4HI
4 See 4HI instructions.

Hope that helps. Be sure and make note in the manual of how the indicator lights work, they tell you what is going on when shifting is in progress and done.

Once you get it in your head it shifts quick. Also be sure and change your t-case fluid on schedule. I found mine started to shift much faster and smoother when I put new fluid in at 30k.

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#9 Old 01-16-2013, 10:02 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Delanoso View Post
Itsme, I ran synthetic motor oil in my 1st gen the last 3 or 4 years. Are you talking about using synthetics in the rest of the drive train too? Is that what most people do?
Personally I run full synthetic in the motor and front/rear axles.

For the transmission and T-case I used the OEM Nissan fluids. I'd recommend you stick to that, at very least until warranty expires. The 6-speed seems to like the factory juice well, keep it changed on schedule every 30k miles, it's as easy to change as the engine oil really. All the fluids are easy to change once you've done it once.

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#10 Old 01-16-2013, 11:24 AM
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Thanks for the info, Airmapper. The detailed instructions definitely help. I'll be on the Cumberland Plateau this weekend to go climbing and since it's been raingin cats and dogs for 2 weeks, I'm sure it'll be a muddy mess. That should give me a chance to test out the process on relatively easy stuff. Saw the thread on a meet up at the LBL. Doubt I'll make that but I'd like to cetch up with y'all at somepoint.
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