3" SL & 2"BL install this weekend in NY - Nissan Xterra Forum
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#1 Old 12-18-2012, 11:19 AM
kkolze
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3" SL & 2"BL install this weekend in NY

Parts for my 2000X are sitting in my house and taunting me daily. This weekend my friends, family and beer will assemble for our first X lift. My sis married into a Jeep family, so even though I have not done much off road upgrading myself, the people around me have lots of knowledge beating on things.

I have the 4x4parts.com Articulator Suspension Package With Bilstein Shocks and purchased the individual parts for the 2" BL.

I have come here for any last min quick tips. Im on my 2nd can of PB blaster and have hit everything I can see multiple times. Should I run out and buy new cam bolts, u bolts or anything else? I know the kit claims to have everything needed, but after 12 years and 170k miles of CT and NY roads, the rust is creeping into my dreams at night. Car is not a DD so no biggy if something goes wrong, however I would like to join the family at Rausch Creek on the 30th for some wheeling.

Any last min tips are greatly appreciated, I have searched round and round the site for problems people have had, and have read some, but nothing major stand out. Thanks for any help you can provide.
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#2 Old 12-18-2012, 11:44 AM
RacerXXL
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The u-bolts for the leaf pack are one time use for sure so you will need new ones. The camber adjustment bolts will often times be rust welded into the UCA's and need to be cut out with a sawzall. The camber bolts are going to be a dealer only item.

If you have read through the 2" BL thread read through the whole thing again as there is a lot going on during a BL and some of it if missed can be expensive to fix.

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#3 Old 12-18-2012, 11:49 AM
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Cam bolts are almost a must for UCAS

Ball joints are a PAIN to unseat for UCAs. Have a torch handy or air hammer etc.

Shocks=easy

Shackles=easy

Understand you will need to REINDEX torsion bars to get 3 inches in the front. Read the how to inmy signature.

Body lift isnt extremely difficult-but time consuming. All the trim is tedious. Do all prep work prior to lift day. Take out rear seats/door seals/bumpers/ etc so lift day you dont waste time dealing with it.

SEARCH! There are several good how tos for body lift, UCAS, reindexing
t bars, etc. Search for "ac uca post installation tips" or something like that.

Pml and reindex and remove rear sway bar links are in my signature.


2004 Xterra 4X4

32" Cooper Discoverer ATP | Lokked and Dropped Front Diff |2.125" Lift Shackles | 3" UCA's | 3" Bils | 2" BL | TC IAB | Bandit 4x4 Idler Arm Bushings | Custom Bumpers | Shrock Sliders | RSB Delete | Snorkel | Cobra 19 DX III CB | 4' Firefly

Building my X


How To: < Remove Rear Sway Bar > < PML > < Re-Index Torsion Bars > < Lokk and Drop >

Last edited by robcarync; 12-19-2012 at 06:58 AM.
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#4 Old 12-18-2012, 12:54 PM
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It differs from vehicle to vehicle. My camber bolts came out with ease. No rust at all on them, but the ball joints took a ton for torch time and beating it to death with a 5lb sledge. Dont even worry about using a pickle fork or anything like that. I beat on the first one with a pickle fork for probably an hour. took a break torched it beat it some more with the fork. finally just started beating on it with a hammer and it fell off quick. on the other side about 10 minutes with a torch and beating it with a hammer and it popped off.

Beware of the abs lines with the torch, they run close to the ball joint and the grease coming out of the ball joint will catch it all on fire. just keep a rag handy to wipe the grease coming from the joints away and you should be ok.

Apply dirt liberally, rinse and repeat


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#5 Old 12-18-2012, 02:03 PM
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My recommendations:

-Assume you will need to cut your camber bolts out. Have new camber bolts ready as well as lots of demolition-strength blades for your sawzall. I knew my bolts were seized so I didn't even bother trying to remove them, just went straight to the saw. 8 hours and 10-12 demo blades later and they were out...

-You might want to invest in a ball joint separator before you start. It will save you A LOT of time and frustration:


- Don't forget to remove the bottom of the radiator shroud before you fire up the truck after the BL! I didn't remove it and it sounded like all hell was breaking loose when I started her up. Luckily the fan shattered the bottom part of the shroud instead of shattering itself.

- Grease your UCA bushings thoroughly before you install them.

- Have at least a 24" breaker bar or a long piece of pipe ready to help loosed the body mount bolts.

- Most of all, be patient. You will probably find that small things hang you up and stretch out the install time beyond what you were expecting. Be prepared for this and try not to put yourself if a position where you need to rush to get things done. I waited for a three day weekend to tackle my UCA install...

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#6 Old 12-18-2012, 02:51 PM
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I would not do both at the same time. Do one, drive for a bit and if all seems well do the other. Doing both at once makes it harder to Chase down any problems that may occur.
Good luck.

"...You see those cars that are completely stock cherry, right out of a dealer’s showroom in 1955, I always think, what a waste.”
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#7 Old 12-18-2012, 07:30 PM
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both would be really tough....I would probably try to tackle the suspension first then BL at another day...


2004 Xterra 4X4

32" Cooper Discoverer ATP | Lokked and Dropped Front Diff |2.125" Lift Shackles | 3" UCA's | 3" Bils | 2" BL | TC IAB | Bandit 4x4 Idler Arm Bushings | Custom Bumpers | Shrock Sliders | RSB Delete | Snorkel | Cobra 19 DX III CB | 4' Firefly

Building my X


How To: < Remove Rear Sway Bar > < PML > < Re-Index Torsion Bars > < Lokk and Drop >
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#8 Old 12-18-2012, 08:19 PM
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X^1 million on the ball joint separator. Don't even mess with a pickle fork. And a tip from MiskyWhisky: leave the ball joint nut on a little so the stock control arm doesn't fly up!

2002 Super Black 5 Speed 4x4
Lift/Suspension: AC Shackles and UCAs, Extended Bilsteins, 2" BL
Armor: front ARB Bumper, rear Skid Row bumper with custom tire carrier
Steering: Bandit 4x4 idler arm bushings, AC HD TRAs, Calmini IAB; Moog TREs and 555 centerlink
Wheels/Tires: 33x12.5x15 Goodyear Duratracs, desert runner wheels
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Electronics: backup camera, Pioneer head unit, JBL 770w amp, JL Audio 12" W0, rear Sony Xplods
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#9 Old 12-20-2012, 11:58 AM
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I appreciate the input. Cam bolts and u bolts are in the pile of parts now. I believe I have hunted down a ball joint seperator after about 15 phone calls and will be picking it up this afternoon.

I spent a bunch of time last night preping for the BL in the 30 degree weather. Gonna take a crack at it after christmas I think, if we got some time left over this weekend we may take a peak at it.

Already got the itch to order more parts, might pull the trigger on steering and full set of skids tonight, or should I replace the 31's with 33's n soft 8's??? ahhh choices, choices.........
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#10 Old 12-20-2012, 05:09 PM
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If you have a shop to work in.. Id head there...

Either way these are 3 to 6 hour projects.. And I wouldnt want to be in the cold for that long
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