Cranks but wont start - Nissan Xterra Forum
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post #1 of 17 Old 03-07-2012, 06:42 PM Thread Starter
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Cranks but wont start

2004 Xterra 120000 miles, vg33e normally aspirated.

I had a knock sensor code for about a year, then I started getting a misfire code. So I changed the knock sensor. Had the upper and lower intake plenum off. I went ahead and changed plugs and wires and replaced the 3 injectors under the upper plenum. While it was down I replaced the evap canister vent valve because it was stuck and I was having problems putting gas in and I put new muffler on because the original was split in two. Got everything back together and it wont start. The engine turns over but doesn't fire at all. I have spark and fuel pressure to the rail but it doesn't seem to have any injector pulse. I checked all the fuses, all electrical connections, but I cant find anything......any input would be appreciated
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post #2 of 17 Old 03-08-2012, 10:00 AM
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Have you had your timing belt replaced?

If not...that's ALWAYS my first thought when a 3.3 will turn but not start.

Check for fuel. Check for spark. Did you mess with your dist. at all?

If not...my money is on timing belt. Cross your fingers you didn't bend any valves!


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That's it, I'm gonna start carrying my muzzle-loader in the rig. Ain't no sneakin' up on me!

Of course there's always been a rivalry between Blackfoot and the Shoshone tribes anyway. Indian signs getting thrown around and my wife looking at me like I'm the idiot. I mean really, someone flashes me 'Your mom looks like a doe's ass' sign and it's on!
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post #3 of 17 Old 03-08-2012, 04:37 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks for the response, I changed the timing belt about 10000 miles ago with no problems. I have double checked the engine timing and it is good and all the plug wires are in the correct places. I sprayed starting fluid in the intake and got one hell of a backfire back through the intake, so there is plenty of spark, plus its visible with a plug out. I have plenty of fuel pressure but it doesnt seem like my injectors are getting a signal to spray. I know that the pcm tells the injectors when to spray, and i think it relies on the cam sensor for that input, which I believe is in the distributor. I'm gonna check out some more wiring and look it over real good but I think its gonna get a distributor......unless anyone has any other ideas.
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post #4 of 17 Old 03-09-2012, 08:35 AM
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That would be my next guess. Have a helpre crank it over and see if your rotor spins


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Originally Posted by Cyclemut View Post
That's it, I'm gonna start carrying my muzzle-loader in the rig. Ain't no sneakin' up on me!

Of course there's always been a rivalry between Blackfoot and the Shoshone tribes anyway. Indian signs getting thrown around and my wife looking at me like I'm the idiot. I mean really, someone flashes me 'Your mom looks like a doe's ass' sign and it's on!
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post #5 of 17 Old 03-14-2012, 11:00 PM Thread Starter
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It was the distributor. Running great now. I'm not really sure what was wrong with the old one, it would spin and made spark. I bought a cheap one off ebay and it seems to be of descent quality, good enough for now anyway.
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post #6 of 17 Old 03-15-2012, 08:23 AM
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Bearing maybe?

You could rebuild the old one cheap, and probably make your money back!


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Originally Posted by Cyclemut View Post
That's it, I'm gonna start carrying my muzzle-loader in the rig. Ain't no sneakin' up on me!

Of course there's always been a rivalry between Blackfoot and the Shoshone tribes anyway. Indian signs getting thrown around and my wife looking at me like I'm the idiot. I mean really, someone flashes me 'Your mom looks like a doe's ass' sign and it's on!
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post #7 of 17 Old 03-21-2012, 07:55 PM
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I'm going through a similar problem as we speak. Car just randomly shuts down while I'm driving. Got the distributor replaced a few weeks ago, and my timing belt was changed about a year and a half ago. It only shuts down when the engine is heated up. My plugs and cables are all new as welk. It's cranks bit won't start. Any suggestions?

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post #8 of 17 Old 03-22-2012, 07:09 PM Thread Starter
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If possible I would scan the computer and check for codes, other than that my first instinct is fuel pump. I would also check the ignition timing.
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post #9 of 17 Old 03-22-2012, 10:34 PM
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When I turn the key, I hear the fuel pump turn on and when its cold is only when it starts. Once the engine heats up it just dies

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post #10 of 17 Old 03-23-2012, 05:31 PM Thread Starter
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I don't know but it sounds like a fuel problem to me, when it starts is it idling rough? When you hear the fuel pump do you have your ear to the gas cap or are you inside, there are some other things that come on and make noise when the key is on that can easily be mistaken for the fuel pump, I'm guilty of this myself. You can also break the line loose under the hood and see if fuel comes out when the key is on, I'm not sure what the pressure should be but it comes out really fast. If all that checks out I would probably still check the wiring to the pump, there should be an access panel under the back seat cushion that you can remove to take a look at it. Other than that there are still a lot of other things to consider, possibly the fuel pressure regulator, the idle air control solenoid, and the mass air flow sensor are the first things that come to mind....I would probably start with the MAF, just unplug it and see if it changes anything. Thats about all I got, hope you figure it out.
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