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M3C.CA's Build Thread

33K views 196 replies 52 participants last post by  Matcheen 
#1 · (Edited)
Yours truly, cuttin' away.


Mods to date:
[x] flaps, steps, swaybar delete
[x] PML with Calmini shackles
[x] Calmini IAB
[x] resonator/baffle delete + (trimmed) K&N drop-in
[x] Bilstein HDs front and rear
[x] plastic front bumper delete
[x] 2" DIY body lift
[x] 33x12.50 Duratracs on 15" Cragar Soft 8s (4.75" backspacing)

PHASE TWO (2012)
[x] Flowmaster Super 44
[x] Eagle 3-leaf spring packs
[x] 4x Hella 700FF 7" driving lights
[x] custom sliders w/ kickout
[x] Calmini UCAs and new OEM camber bolts
[x] rear plate bumper / tire swingarm and fullsize spare
[x] AC HD tie road adjusters
[x] spring-over conversion
[x] AC stainless brake lines
[x] custom front tube bumper w/ Smittybilt XRC8 winch
[x] CB radio

PHASE THREE (in progress)
[] full-width one ton axles (high pinion Dana 60 and Sterling 10.25", welded front, Detroit rear with 5.13s)
[] 37x12.5x17 BFG blue label Krawlers
[] custom Ruff Stuff 3 link up front (purchased)
[] 350 TBI + SM465 + NP241 swap
 
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#2 ·
Looking good!
 
#3 · (Edited)
Background:

I've been interested in buying an X for a couple of years and was finally in the right financial situation to make a purchase at the end of June 2011. I was lucky enough to find an great deal on a Xterra that had be treated very well it's whole life. The X had slightly high mileage (170KM/105M) but had all service records from a dealer since new and had never been taken off-road. I wasn't looking for a supercharged model (fuel economy) but the truck's condition and asking price were right.

First day with with the new (stock) truck:


Stock fun:

Flexin' on a local trail.


Almost got the X stuck after only owning it for 7 days. This washout was a little too short and steep for stock height. I bent one of the stock step rails gunning it up the other side. Also rubbed the spare and dragged the trailer hitch a bit. This prompted to drop the spare from under the back and store it in the trunk for now...
[/quote]

Update 1

I started researching lift and tire options right away. Logic dictates that a lift comes before tires so PML it was. I went with the Calmini shackles as they apparently don't give quite a lift in the back and I don't want to increase the stock rake any more if possible. Figured I might as well grab an idler arm brace too and get that important step done.

We had no camera-person so there are no shots of my buddy and I working but here are the results. Torsion bars cranked for around 1.5" up front.


Like I said, I'm new to working on cars and so was the friend who was helping me but once we got the X and the diff properly jacked the install was smooth sailing.


Old vs. new


Looking good! The effect is subtle but definitely noticeable. According to my measurements I gained a between 2-2.25" in the back. I'm glad I went with the Calmini shackles... it would have been more with the ACs.


Idler arm install was a cakewalk. Didn't need to take the wheel off or jack up the vehicle at all.


Next step is to pull of the rear sway bar.


Gone! I was a little worried that the removal would be noticeable while driving on-road but it's been almost a week now and I have barely noticed that it's missing.


And the last mod to date is the removal of the stock step bars. Removing the step bars makes the vehicle appear a lot taller and it's definitely a good move until I can pick up some sliders. (As an aside, it looks like I will be grabbing Trail-Gear sliders originally designed for Taco/4Runner and having a local metalshop fab mounting brackets for it. I'd rather not weld the sliders to the frame if possible)

These mods combined for better flex and traction on rough trails. I had the opportunity to go camping this weekend at the same spot I went to on my first weekend with the X and it could feel the improvements.

New flex. Could have pushed for another inch or so probably...


That's all for now! Next mods are likely either sliders or Bilsteins all round.

Update 2
I finally got around to prepping the front grille for paint this morning. I was planning on painting the grille and all bumpers flat black but after seeing some other pewter Xterra's on CX with black plastics, I decided against it. I find that black clashes with the pewter color so I guess I will be sticking with dark grey bumpers and grille for the time being.

My color tester is a piece of the front bumper which I had already removed. As you can see, the 'dark charcoal bumper paint' is definitely the best match. Still a little bit lighter than the stock plastics but I doubt it will be noticeable once everything gets a bit grubby.



The grille was looking pretty pathetic...



Out it comes:



Hurtin' for sure:



My cleaning method consisted of scrubbing the grille with a Scotch-brite pad dipped in warm water with a Dawn soap. Spent about 20 minutes on it and it looks a lot better now.



Still not perfect so it will be painted now that I have finalized my color choice. Should be able to finish the job tomorrow. While I was at it this morning I also pulled off the trim from around the wheel wells. The X looks much sharper without them...
 
#6 · (Edited)
Update 3

Well after a day of drying out the front grille is much improved. So much so that I'm not planning on painting it anymore for the moment. I may do the silvery center bar dark grey at some point and I'll probably hit the grille with a toothbrush later to get the nooks and crannies a bit better...



Anyway I still had the itch to do some sort of modding so I did the baffle/resonator delete this morning instead.

The mod took just over an hour following SoccerBrace's great DIY guide. I also cleaned the mass airflow sensor. It was a solo job so no mid-progress pics but here are some of the finished job. Had to hold the camera awkwardly so sorry for the odd angled pics...

Here's the plugs. The zip-tie is a big crooked on the small one but they're both secure.




Pieces that were removed:


I will report back on changes in exhaust tone and performance (if any). I also plan on getting a K&N drop-in filter later today if possible.

Looking good. That is one of my favorite colors on the X. I wanna see a picture of the wheel wells minus the trim. I was gonna paint those parts, but if it looks better without em...
Thanks! Here's a quick pic of the trim removed above the wheel wells.



One minor issue with removing the trim is I have a faint weathering line on the front two fenders where the trim sat. I couldn't get it off with Dawn and a cloth but some cutting wax will take it off no prob.



So that's what I've done for my X today so far. Hopefully I'll top it off with a K&N filter if I can find one locally (lots of shops closed on Sunday). Thanks for watching.
 
#7 ·
Nice Job!! When you replaced the rear shackles, did you have to jack the leaf spring to relieve tension to remove the old shackle and add the new one?

I'm not a mechanic either. But common sense tells me, if it's a SPRING, that it's under some resistance being on the ground. That if I attempt to remove the spring, that it might unload on me (breaking a finger or something else).

Any suggestions?

Thanks
 
#8 ·
K&N air filter installed. Acceleration after the baffle/resonator delete, MAF cleaning and K&N filter is noticeably improved. There was a slight hesitation in the acceleration before today (almost as though the supercharger was 'spooling' like a turbo, which it shouldn't), now it is all but gone. The supercharger and engine in general are much nicer, with a throatier sound.

I do have a SES light showing on the dash however. The plugs are still firmly in place and I'm not hearing or feeling anything worriesome. I've been reading the DIY thread for more info but if anyone want's to chime in here that'd be great. Do I have to reset the computer to turn the light off or...?

Nice Job!! When you replaced the rear shackles, did you have to jack the leaf spring to relieve tension to remove the old shackle and add the new one?

I'm not a mechanic either. But common sense tells me, if it's a SPRING, that it's under some resistance being on the ground. That if I attempt to remove the spring, that it might unload on me (breaking a finger or something else).

Any suggestions?

Thanks
Thanks! I can't remember exactly how it worked but I ended up needing to wedge a small bottle jack between the frame of the truck and the leaf spring and jack the leaf down into position. There will be some tension on the springs as you mentioned but no one can tell you exactly how much because it depends on how worn the springs are and other factors...

Just be smart about propping up the body on axle stands and try to anticipate how parts will react to gravity, etc. Sorry I can't be more specific.
 
#9 ·
Nice Job!! When you replaced the rear shackles, did you have to jack the leaf spring to relieve tension to remove the old shackle and add the new one?

I'm not a mechanic either. But common sense tells me, if it's a SPRING, that it's under some resistance being on the ground. That if I attempt to remove the spring, that it might unload on me (breaking a finger or something else).

Any suggestions?

Thanks
Check your IM

K&N air filter installed. Acceleration after the baffle/resonator delete, MAF cleaning and K&N filter is noticeably improved. There was a slight hesitation in the acceleration before today (almost as though the supercharger was 'spooling' like a turbo, which it shouldn't), now it is all but gone. The supercharger and engine in general are much nicer, with a throatier sound.

I do have a SES light showing on the dash however. The plugs are still firmly in place and I'm not hearing or feeling anything worriesome. I've been reading the DIY thread for more info but if anyone want's to chime in here that'd be great. Do I have to reset the computer to turn the light off or...?



Thanks! I can't remember exactly how it worked but I ended up needing to wedge a small bottle jack between the frame of the truck and the leaf spring and jack the leaf down into position. There will be some tension on the springs as you mentioned but no one can tell you exactly how much because it depends on how worn the springs are and other factors...

Just be smart about propping up the body on axle stands and try to anticipate how parts will react to gravity, etc. Sorry I can't be more specific.
This is how I do it.

Take a floor jack and raise the rear until the wheels are both off the ground and place a set of jack stands under the frame so both wheels are still off the ground. Remove the nuts from the shackles and place the floor jack under the center of the rear diff and raise it until the shackles rattle slightly. Remove the shackles and install the new ones.
 
#11 · (Edited)
Just got off the phone with Essex Distributors, the main Bilstein distributors for Canada. Ordered a set of rears (part number F4B46-2126-H1) to replace my pathetic stock shocks.

I called instead of ordering online because I wanted to verify that I would receive the shocks designed for lifted Xterras. The parts finder tool on their website spit out model number BE3-6422-H0 which is for non-lifted trucks...

Anyway they had them in stock, they'll ship today and because I live relatively close to the distributor, I'll receive them tomorrow!!
 
#12 ·
nice man. improvements....
how much did those bilsteins cost you? the 5100s there about 60 on 4X4parts.com. just wondering if you got a better deal comin straight from the distributor.
 
#13 ·
nice man. improvements....
how much did those bilsteins cost you? the 5100s there about 60 on 4X4parts.com. just wondering if you got a better deal comin straight from the distributor.
Well, remember I'm in Canada and despite our dollar being on par (or better) than the US dollar, everything costs more up here.

The shocks cost me $88 each with $5 shipping for the whole order direct from the distributor. Total was just over $200 with tax and everything.

I went to Lordco to ask for a quote on the same shocks and the guy said "over $200 each" then recommended me some cheap-ass Monroes... What a joke.
 
#14 ·
haha. yea i guess its hard to compare prices then. im down in south carolina so you might as well be on the moon. lol.
(i wonder if xterras run up there?) haha
 
#15 ·
Looks good bro!!!
 
#16 · (Edited)
Look what the nice FedEx lady brought to door bright and early this morning!





These things are beefy and bigger than I expected. 2" body and 26.5" long. Keys included for reference.



Working late tonight so I won't be able to get 'em installed until tomorrow evening. Looking forward to tossing my stock rears, they are in super rough shape.

Also, big ups to Essex Distributors. I do live fairly close but regardless, they had the shocks at my front door less than 24 hours after placing the order for a fraction of what local auto shops wanted. I will definitely be getting my fronts from them as well! Remember to call to place your order and make sure to specify if you want the H1 model for lifted Xterras.
 
#17 · (Edited)
Update 4

Got the Bilsteins installed last night with the help of a friend. It was fairly straightforward, the most time consuming part being removing the old shocks.


The stock shocks were in rough shape.


The Bilsteins have the same shock body width but are 2-3" inches longer.




First side done:


It got dark pretty quickly and we were trying to finish up quickly so I don't have a shot of both installed. I'll take one later today and add it to the post.

Took the X for a quick trip to get some food last night and it feels fantastic. Can't wait to do some wheeling this weekend! And front Bilsteins are on my hot list (probably within the next 2 weeks)...
 
#19 ·
Alright first update in a while...

Since my last post I have purchased in install Bilstein HD fronts to match the rears. I've been wheeling a few times and I absolutely love the Bilstein's on and off road.

One thing I have disliked since I bought the Xterra is how much the front bumper sticks out. This has been a constant aggravation on the trails. First I broke the support arm for the little flaps in the bottom front corners so I pulled those off and also the silver air dam in the middle and was left with what you see below (there was a red BMW parked next to me hence the red reflection).


I have the SC model which comes with fog lights up front. I like the extra lighting but the fog light assembly hangs down quite a bit in the front corners. Last weekend I tried to cross a steep river crossing and ended up scraping the front bumper on the departure and damaging the front right fog light.


Tore the bulb right out of the lens.


So today I decided the front bumper needs to go... at least until I can have a tube bumper made locally. This mod was inspired by pics from Davcos' build thread.

Aww, my X is nekkid... and dirty!


Bumpers and frame brace off.


Frame horns tow hook, etc painted.


Painting the front bumper. I cheaped out and only did the sides that would be visible (not the inside/back surfaces).






Put back together and lookin' sharp.




Approach - before:


Approach - after:


All in all I am very happy with the mod. The only part that I may end up changing at some point down the road is the cutting off the mounting tabs for the plastic bumper (circled in red below). I am going to wait a week or so to do this though...



I am also going to talk to a local fab shop about building some custom recovery points for the front of the truck (again similar to Davcos' setup)...
 
#22 · (Edited)
Hey that does look pretty sharp. Let me know, if you you don't mind, how much the shop is gonna charge you.. Did you ever figure out sliders for your X?
Thanks! I have no idea how much a bumper will cost. Honestly, the bumper is probably 4-6 months away. BL + 33s need to come first! Also, I have almost 100% decided on the Trailgear Yota sliders... Trail-gear.ca sells the 58" sliders for $160, add gussets and/or fabrication time to build custom mounts and I think the total cost for the sliders will be about $250. Cheaper than Calminis!

Wow man you got some great pics! I really like your build going so far, keep up the pics :D
Thanks Kuma!!

Actually I found a couple of cool B&Ws that I took while out on some solo exploring missions a couple weekends ago. I like the one with the huge cable spool in the background... Hence the avatar!





It's hard to take good photos when rolling solo... I want to be driving the X, not taking pictures of it!
 
#23 ·
In addition to Seafoaming the X today, I scored a new 48" Hi Lift for $100. I was thinking of figuring out a system for mounting the jack to the roof but it turns out it fits perfectly behind the back seats. A quick trip to the hardware store for a small U-bolt and some nuts and its's secured!







I've only gotten stuck twice so far in the X and in both cases a little bit of winching action from a Hi Lift would have likely gotten me out ... Now I'm prepared.
 
#25 ·
Awesome build.

You'd probably do great with some 255/85 tires, skinny/tall 33s.

Do you think you can post some details/pics of how you hooked up the hi-lift and axle to the back seat like that?

I am interested in setting it up similarly.
 
#26 ·
Haven't quite finalized the mounting system for the Hi Lift... One side is mounted with a carabiner, the 'foot' side is just resting on the wheel well.

I may have scored a set of Shrockworks sliders for $200 today! I was checking out some used car lots with my mom yesterday and I found a nice first-gen with Shrockworks sliders bolted on. I went back today to ask if they'd be interested in trading the Shrockworks sliders for my stock step bars plus $200. The guy I spoke to was into 4x4ing and understood why I wanted them. He is going to ask the owner and hopefully get back to me today!

Also, body lift pucks and hardware are sitting on my living room floor waiting to be installed and my 33x12.50 Duratracs are at my local Fountain Tire waiting to be mounted once my Soft 8s get delivered next week. Awww, the Xterra is growing from a teenager to a man!
 
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