First thing I did was change all the lights to LEDs.
Second was to remove the plastic factory mudflaps.
And then I did the factory air intake baffle removal.
First thing I did was change all the lights to LEDs.
Second was to remove the plastic factory mudflaps.
And then I did the factory air intake baffle removal.
Headlights, dome lights, stereo, tint, removed all the restrictions from the air intake. Painted all the grey plastic accents black and put a PML. Coming up next bigger tires, prettier rims and a magnaflow exhaust. Oh and stickers!
Mine do the same thing. I am not 100% sure but th believe when they are set to come on with the doors they become ground side switched so there is always a little current running to them. You just don't notice it with regular bulbs because it is such a small amount that it can't get the filiment to glow.
Get rid of the mud flaps, step sides and resonators. All free up grades! And if you put in a Fram Air Hog drop in filter that will cost you around 10 bucks and is just as good as a K&N.
Then I would look into doing the PML. Just the cost of the shackles and an alignment and you will be good to go
Edit--> Oh yeah and remove the rear sway bar. You DONT need it and it will damage your shock. (thats also a freebee )
If the budget is a problem, yup, do all the free mods.
Remove rear sway bar
Remove lower mud flaps
Remove steps
Remove vestigial wee plastic hub caps
Remove air intake baffles.
I'd NOT ADD a Air Hog, because its just as good as a K&N, and the K&N are terrible FILTERS (They let in more air by filtering out fewer particles of concern)....and, the performance gain is about zero anyway.
Removing the intake baffles frees up the intake more all by itself....for free.
After the above, its all down to what the budget IS.
If its zero, you're about done.
If its a few bucks here and there, well, its a question of PRIORITIZING.
IE: You can't do EVERYTHING, so, you put the things you'd like to be different in order of how BADLY you want them to be different, and, do the one(s) you want the MOST FIRST.
Ok TJTJ. The filter cost me 9 bucks. Is it really that bad? Just wondering because I could have bought a 12 pack of beer or a steak or something else for my kids. Crap, sorry Jack5885, but that's what I have.
IF you are going off road, take off the steps...they get broken off road too easily...they are steps, not weak sliders.
If you sell them while they're still pretty, you get money to use TOWARDS sliders (Or beer, whatever...).
If you off road with them, and they get broken/messed up...no one will buy them....they buy them when they mess THEIRS up, and want new pretty ones.
As for the K&N style filters...they are bad for your engine, so, yeah, beer is a better investment, it won't hurt your engine (Well, when used as intended, etc...)
Well, hitting at ALL breaks the steps...they can't take ANY upwards force...
...but if you're not off roading, sure, leave'm, and you don't need sliders either, or any other off road mods...as the truck can do all that bone stock.
I'm probably gonna get new tires next year.
Consumer Reports likes the Cooper Discoverer A/T3. Has anybody used them before? I am looking for an AT tire that has good tread life, good snow traction, and is good on pavement (where i'll be spending most of my time).
I'm probably gonna get new tires next year.
Consumer Reports likes the Cooper Discoverer A/T3. Has anybody used them before? I am looking for an AT tire that has good tread life, good snow traction, and is good on pavement (where i'll be spending most of my time).
Duratracs and BFG ATs seem to be most people's favorite. Duratracs seem to be better in the snow,but BFGs are going to last a while. You really can't go wrong with either of those.
Only 1 other thing to throw in the mix, if you do decide on upgrades down the trail, besides prioritizing them as far as wants, prioritize them as far as buiding blocks as well. Meaning, think about a BL/PML (Body Lift/Poor Man's Lift) before bumpers/sliders or 33's.
When considering tires remember that AT tires do well in the dry terrain but essentially become racing slicks in the mud. MT class tires handle the 4 foot mud holes much better.
AT tires are well mannered on the highway whereas MT tires give a distinctive howl that can be quite loud.
HT tires are for noobs. I say that but I saw a friggin 2WD Xterra with run of the mill mini-van tires mount some pretty serious terrain at the NXM event this year.
As others have said there are a few free delete mods you can do first: mudflaps, rear sway bar, step rails, intake baffle and resonators, etc etc.
Not sure what exactly a 'limited budget' means but a full set of Bilstein HDs will set you back about $250-300 and will do wonders for your on- and off-road ride quality. My 03's stock shocks were just terrible and when I installed the Bilsteins it felt like a new vehicle.
Ok so I took out my rear sway bar last night and then this morning when I took it to the store, whenever I went around a corner it creaked and moaned. The sound was coming from the front of the car though. Is this a coincidence or are they related?
My engine was also idling strangely and had some VERY faint ticking sound both at idle and a little louder when moving. <-- Is that the timing belt needing replacement? Im at 94k miles in an 02.
Ok TJTJ. The filter cost me 9 bucks. Is it really that bad? Just wondering because I could have bought a 12 pack of beer or a steak or something else for my kids. Crap, sorry Jack5885, but that's what I have.
Sounds to me like you're usually buying steaks and beer for your kids
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