Nissan XTerra Forum banner

Wheel Adapters on 2014 Xterra w/2" Revtek Lift over 285/75/16 BFG TA KOs

5K views 5 replies 3 participants last post by  kebler2005 
#1 ·
When I purchased my Xterra I negotiated from bigger and more aggressive tires. Which lead to rubbing, which lead to installers improperly heating and melted holes in the fenderliners.

Since then, the dealership has replaced the damaged items and installed a 2" Revtek lift. It looks great and there is NO rubbing, however I am seeing a lot about "Wheel Spacers" or "Wheel Adapters"

I have been doing a lot of reading trying to figure out what options I have:
1. Add the Wheel Adapters to give it a wider stance and eliminate future chances of rubbing or damaging the tires if/when going over bumps/rocks
2. Just keep the 2" lift and be happy
3. Replace the wheels with a larger offset

#3 I don't like because I like the stock wheels and don't feel like investing several hundred just for pure looks.

#2 isn't my favorite because I prefer the look of the tires being a little more flush with the fender and not tucked as much. Additionally, A friend lifted their frontier with a 2" Revtek kit and when he was taking a corner he hit a speed bump and it put a 2 inch gouge in his tires and tore off his splash guard, so i feel like adding the spacers to be extra safe

#1 Seems like a reasonable option and a valid reason as well. However I am aware of the ongoing concern with "spacers" however I am looking into wheel adapters which appear to be more reliable. Assuming it is installed properly


If I did buy wheel adapters, would I need to pay to get it Mounted and Balance or since it has been recently done, should I just install the adapter and put the wheels on and tighten it all down to the manuals specs and its good?
 

Attachments

See less See more
1
#2 · (Edited)
You have a few things that need clarification before you can continue:

1) 285/75/16 ARE a wee bit larger than the 265/75/16 that are a stock size...but, the NORMAL procedure to fit them IS to melt back the part of the wheel well liner that the larger tire rubs on. IE: The Dealer actually did the normal procedure. If he melted holes, OK, that's not the normal WAY to DO the normal procedure, albeit, THAT'S actually what you want to do (Its called the Melt Mod")

2) You cannot get larger tire clearance, EXCEPT at ride height, with a suspension lift, as when you go over a bump (As your friend found out), corner, brake, etc...and the suspension compresses, the tire will hit whatever it WOULD HAVE HIT without a suspension lift.

3) A wheel spacer subtracts back spacing....its exactly like getting a new rim with less backspacing as far as fitment goes. (Less BS = The tire is more stuck out to the curb side/more BS = more tucked into the brake side).

On a live axle, this does add tire clearance most of the time. On an Independent Front Suspension (IFS) the effect is more varied, except that the major expectation is MORE RUB, not less.

The reason for that is that on either side of the arm's maximum outboard extension distance, on compression, and extension, IFS arms can swing INWARD, closer to the frame...reducing tire clearance. On the X...this is mostly at lifted heights, or, extension droop, etc.

When you reduce the BS, and make the tire stick out farther, it means that when you turn the wheel, the tire swings in a wider arc. This is like a batter swinging a longer bat, but in the same sized box.

So put the batter in a china shop where his cut misses the china, then give him a longer bat. The new longer bat hits stuff the shorter bat missed, and, in a wheel well, that = more rub/contact.



So - Essentially, the tire shop was correct in what was needed, but appeared to have screwed up the execution...and what you really need right now is to simply do the melt mod correctly, and, be happy.

The 2" lift won't make your larger tires hit any more than the stock height would have hit, so wheel adapter/spacers that reduce BS will only make rub worse, and will not compensate for the lift which didn't need compensating for in the first place.

So, the good news is you appear to have scored a free 2" SL. Enjoy it!

Now go do the melt mod, yourself, to be sure its done right.

:D
 
#3 ·
1) 285/75/16 ARE a wee bit larger than the 265/75/16 that are a stock size...but, the NORMAL procedure to fit them IS to melt back the part of the wheel well liner that the larger tire rubs on. IE: The Dealer actually did the normal procedure. If he melted holes, OK, that's not the normal WAY to DO the normal procedure, albeit, THAT'S actually what you want to do (Its called the Melt Mod")

So, the good news is you appear to have scored a free 2" SL. Enjoy it!
Now go do the melt mod, yourself, to be sure its done right.
:D
It was my mistake to assume that everyone would read my Garage info because in the "History" section I said:
When I picked the vehicle up and it was rubbing, which I honestly expected and as I expected the install department was going to trim and heat my fender liners to flex them and make it work. UNANNOUNCED TO ME while preforming their work they overheated my fender liners and punctured holes in them, one side had a pitiful attempt of covering it up
HAHAH But that is no fault of yours. Thanks for the Info
 
#4 · (Edited)
I prefer to address one thing at a time since I have OCD and ADD. :D

1) 285/75/16 ARE a wee bit larger than the 265/75/16 that are a stock size...but, the NORMAL procedure to fit them IS to melt back the part of the wheel well liner that the larger tire rubs on. IE: The Dealer actually did the normal procedure. If he melted holes, OK, that's not the normal WAY to DO the normal procedure, albeit, THAT'S actually what you want to do (Its called the Melt Mod")
When the stock tires were on it did not rub, yes. When the 287/75/16s are on, it did rub. With the melt mod, it still rubbed slightly and when taking it in to have them continue the melt mod, we noticed they damaged the fender liners.
IN ADDITION By lifting it 2" it did in fact address the rubbing because the widest horizontal points have now been moved down 2 inches. I can confirm that it no longer rubs where it previously rubbed, but yes it still rubs, it now rubs just where the splash guard meets the fender liner, good news is, the corner of fender liner can be heated and pressed in a bit before it meets the splash guard.

2) You cannot get larger tire clearance, EXCEPT at ride height, with a suspension lift, as when you go over a bump (As your friend found out), corner, brake, etc...and the suspension compresses, the tire will hit whatever it WOULD HAVE HIT without a suspension lift.
With this being said the same 2 inches apply however, I can see where if in problem #1 I do the melt mod to only the lower end corner prior to where it meets the splash guard it might still rub a bit higher where the plastic wasn't melted.

3) A wheel spacer subtracts back spacing....its exactly like getting a new rim with less backspacing as far as fitment goes. (Less BS = The tire is more stuck out to the curb side/more BS = more tucked into the brake side).

On a live axle, this does add tire clearance most of the time. On an Independent Front Suspension (IFS) the effect is more varied, except that the major expectation is MORE RUB, not less.

The reason for that is that on either side of the arm's maximum outboard extension distance, on compression, and extension, IFS arms can swing INWARD, closer to the frame...reducing tire clearance. On the X...this is mostly at lifted heights, or, extension droop, etc.

When you reduce the BS, and make the tire stick out farther, it means that when you turn the wheel, the tire swings in a wider arc. This is like a batter swinging a longer bat, but in the same sized box.

So put the batter in a china shop where his cut misses the china, then give him a longer bat. The new longer bat hits stuff the shorter bat missed, and, in a wheel well, that = more rub/contact.
I overlooked the fact that it will pivot from the same point. The wheels/tires will just be extended 1.25 outward via the width of the adapter. Getting the "bigger bat in the same space analogy you used.
This pretty much giving me the answer. No, Wheels Adapters will NOT help the rubbing and if anything, might cause MORE rubbing while making larger turns.

So - Essentially, the tire shop was correct in what was needed, but appeared to have screwed up the execution...and what you really need right now is to simply do the melt mod correctly, and, be happy.
I'll be having them do it, since then anything gone wrong is still covered by them.


The 2" lift won't make your larger tires hit any more than the stock height would have hit, so wheel adapter/spacers that reduce BS will only make rub worse, and will not compensate for the lift which didn't need compensating for in the first place.
Again to reiterate the fact that it did change the points in which it rubbed in relation to the wheel well, going from 3/8's the height to 1/4. So depending on what was inside the wheel well it may or may not fix the problem, but you are correct that in my wheel wells, it still rubs regardless.

So, the good news is you appear to have scored a free 2" SL. Enjoy it!
Now that I consider everything between my research and what you have pointed out, yes I have just received a free 2" lift.>:D


No, Wheels Adapters will NOT help the rubbing and if anything, might cause MORE rubbing while making larger turns
 

Attachments

#5 ·
Again - The suspension lift ONLY raises the ride height clearance.

When going over a bump, etc, the tire will rise up and hit the same parts...it just has to rise ~ 2" higher to do it.

:D
 
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Top