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hesitation and rpm's dropping 2004 Xterra

3K views 4 replies 2 participants last post by  ziggieice 
#1 ·
Hey guys a while back I made a thread about how my rmps would drop at a full stop and eventually stall the engine dead, that turned out to be the computer itself dying and eventually died. I got a rebuilt computer and everything seemed fine up until recently.

The rpm issues came back(not as bad) along with a new noise which sounds like 2 blocks of wood hitting each other from a distance at a stop or while driving at my rear,
the xterra is having a hard time getting up and going and i'll quote from my last thread "I seem to have a lack of power accelerating, every now and again I would really have to press the peddle to get up and go and I would feel the power jerk itself back to normal but if I break I would have to do it over again." 2002XterraSC told me that sounds like a distributor problem. But what exactly is making it do that in the distributor, Bearings? My distributor unit is all new (spark plugs, wires, rotor and cap and the whole thing itself).
lastly the o2 sensors are really driving me nuts dejablue's suggestion didn't help my issue cleaning and replacing the ground I still have codes for them. However the hole was so badly rusted on the driver side ground strap I relocated it on the bottom side. ill show pictures but again the codes are still there and it seems there is a service bulletin on 04's to have the entire engine wiring harness replaced.

I'm at the point to where it's time for me to get rid of it much to my dismay, it only has 158k miles on it and I love my X but I'm pulling my hair out on all this money im spending to keep it half-assed running

I do have codes
p0132 air fuel ratio sensor 1 circuit high voltage
p0152 air fuel ratio sensor 1 (bank 2)circuit high voltage
p0328 knock sensor circuit high input (bank 1)
p0462 Fuel level sensor circuit low input
ANY HELP IS VERY APPRECIATED

I have pictures of what the hole looks like and where i replaced it on the bottom
this is where I relocated it


here is where the ground strap and nut originally where, as you can see its pretty bad
 
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#2 ·
guys I really need some answers here please, It's now starting to overheat at a full stop and ride real rough after it gets hot enough, that sound that I mentioned earlier about how its similar to two blocks of wood hitting each other is a lot more prevalent now, I bought a name brand distributor to replace the one I got off ebay and it cost double. But now i'm incredible concerned that its on its last leg and destined for the scrapper. what is going on here?
 
#3 ·
Not sure if this helps but.. I have an 2003 auto 4×4 experiencing similar symptoms but not exactly the same. Tested and threw four codes.. p0328: faulty knock sensor, p0444: evaporated emission canister purge valve solenoid, p0600: ecm, p1605: tcm communication line.

Ive been blowing my number 13 fuse every other time I start the truck and get no crank no start. I replace the fuse and it starts fine again. So I figure something with the tcm or ecm is shorting. Either the wiring harnesses or the modules themselves. Tested both.. they're functional. Also, while driving I get the same slowness in 1st gear and 2nd but not high rpms. Once I'm accelerated to 4th or 5th there's no fight to accelerate. Anyways, I looked at the emission cannister purge valve solenoid and what it does, what symptoms you might get when it's bad etc. Seems like it might be the answer to why I'm having issues with fuse and weird 1st gear problem. Turns out the connector to the purge valve (under hood not near cannister) is not only not connected, but the actual emissions canister purge calve solenoid is the wrong one and doesn't fit the correct connector. I just ordered a new one off of parts geek.. we'll see if it helps any. Hope this helps and sorry for the long winded reply!
 
#4 ·
Also, from what I've read on the knock sensor, it's expensive to replace because of its placement under the engine and it should affect how the car drives. You can disconnect the current one and install a new one in a different area. If you look up knock sensor relocation on YouTube you can find a couple different videos on it.
 
#5 · (Edited)
Thanks for this, i'll check out mine. I whent ahead and spent 200+ on a namebrand distributor and it fixed the hesitation for now, I no longer hear a bearing noise either. I bought a cheaper ebay distributor and that seemed to last about a month. But now another new issue, its overheating at VERY random intervals, it has a new radiator , water pump, fan clutch is fine but for some reason it only now started to lose its grip on the main hose on the top left side of the radiator, i'm keeping my eye on this.
Did you ever get a 02 sensor issue like what I described?
 
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