Nissan XTerra Forum banner

Delayed start When warm

2K views 5 replies 3 participants last post by  2k1XterraXE 
#1 · (Edited)
Hi everybody! I have had my xterra for a year now and I really love it, but it has an issue That drives me nuts!! It gives me problems starting when Warm. It will start great when cold or if I just turned it off, but if it has had a chance to cool down, it cranks for about 10-12 seconds before it'll start. When it does start like that, it sounds weak and the rpm rises to a little over one, dives almost to zero then rises to normal. We replaced the plugs and cables before last winter when this issue started because we thought maybe that was the issue. We just replaced the distributor cap and rotor last week. Replacing that made it work for a few hours like normal, but then it started doing it again. I also noticed, although my bf thinks i'm crazy and making it up, that it seems like it has issues accelerating sometimes. I'll be going 60 on the freeway and if I want to accelerate, sometimes the rpm will go up a little, but it won't accelerate. When that happens, i have to REALLY QUICKLY let off the gas and slam it down and then it jumps to life and works fine. Yesterday, we had nasty rain and I wanted turn on the 4x4 because my ABS light keeps coming on ( haven't had this diagnosed yet, think its just a sensor because it's sporadic) and when I turned on the 4x4, it ran really rough like a stick shift does when you don't give it enough gas and it's about to cut out. I pulled into an empty area of the parking lot and put in neutral to turn off the 4x4. I had to reverse it a little distance to get the 4x4 to disengage, and then it was much harder to accelerate. It's been harder to accelerate all of today as well. My mechanic thinks it could be the Fuel pressure regulator, but I am not sure and my mechanic isn't really a diagnostic mechanic. He just swaps out parts when asked. I don't trust other mechanics in my area because I have heard way too many mechanics have completely differing opinions and they all end being wrong. Also, I know I have some sort of electrical short because only one of high beams works. I have had the bulbs replaced and when that happened the side that worked actually switched places lol. I really just want help with the Start issue. the other things are not as sever and I am worried that one day my truck won't start.

Also, not sure if this makes a difference, but this truck was hit in the passenger side at some point. I think it was a t-bone due to the visible repairs done to the frame. (top of rear passenger side door the frame looks thicker, like maybe it was welded or reshaped.) This had to have happened at least 2 owners ago, and the frame was fixed, but the rear passenger door has a gap in the bottom where it doesn't meet the frame. It is a 2001 nissan xterra XE automatic v6. My radiator line is blocked as well, but we have been putting fluid directly into the radiator to mediate the issue for now. Oil and tranny fluid are fine. Had the front brakes replaced before winter because one was starting to squeal. One of my belts is going because it will squeal occasionally on start up, but I don't want to fix this until I can get it starting properly because I think it may be getting extra stressed by the bad start ups. If you need any extra info or pics of something, just let me know. Mind you, if you need pics, I may need guidance about where the piece is because I am not good at car mechanics. This is my first vehicle ever and I want to keep as long as possible.
 
See less See more
#2 · (Edited)
Have you looked at the bearing in the bottom of the dist its provably burned up ,when the the truck is warm the bearing wont turn .
http://www.clubxterra.org/forums/showthread.php?t=22116

The head light you have the wrong bulb not all xteras take the same one.

The belt problem noise is provably the 2 belt tensor bearings have never been changed only the belts.

The radiator you need to get the one for super charged xterra double the cooling bolts right in no changes.

Sounds like no one has done any maintenance just drive .
 
#3 ·
I'll call my mechanic tomorrow and see if he can take a look at the bearing because that is way too deep for me to check or my boyfriend. Also, the acceleration wasn't giving me issues today and it was 80 degrees here in Milwaukee.

As for the bulb, we replaced both a while back and that is when the side that was working switched from one to the other. We got the bulbs at an autozone. Any Ideas as to a way to test if maybe the housing on one side is different from the other? Like I said, it was in an accident, and maybe they replaced the whole housing on one side. Or is there a way I can find out which bulb I need?

To be honest, I have no idea what you meant about the radiator.

No, I don't think anyone has taken care of this truck ever other than the bare minimum like fluid check and tires. And actually the tires were crap when I got it. I just replaced the two back ones and am looking into two front ones. I think that's why my ABS light comes on because I spent all winter fighting to brake with the ABS coming on literally every time. I'd like to get it fixed as est possible, but I have a limited budget. I was told I'm being laid off and don't have another job lined up yet.

Also, I poked around under the hood with my stepdad today trying to find the valve for checking gas pressure, but we couldn't find it. Found the one for the AC, which shot out just air (is that normal or is it missing frion? AC doesn't work right now.) Found one with a black tag saying EVAP, not sure what that is. I'm going to see if maybe Autozone can check the gas pressure for me.

Thanks for the quick response. I'd have answered sooner but I had a lot to get done. Any other Ideas and/or tests to check them with would be great.
 
#6 ·
Fixed!!

Sorry about the delay coming back here. Been really busy.

But I did get the Fuel pressure regulator replaced, and it fixed most of my problems!! I got a few prices and most wanted $180 just in labor, but i found one guy ho said he had never changed one before, but was confident he could if i left it with him for the night. He only charged $90 in labor plus parts. I hope this post helps anyone else having the same issue. One of the guys who quoted $180 actually disconnected the hose on the piece, and gas still came out even though the truck was off. I guess it had been running rich because of the regulator.

Still haven't found a fix for the high beams, and the radiator still needs to have the line unplugged, but those are minor issues that can be worked with.

I also added AC fluid (frion i think its called??) and i have to say the A/C rocks!

Thanks for all the help guys. I really appreciate it. I'm ready to keep rockin in my truck. I WILL get this amazing truck close to what it once was. Even if i have to become a mechanic.
 
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Top