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Acts like brake is on when trying to go in the morning

2K views 15 replies 6 participants last post by  boomer630 
#1 ·
Took Xterra in to dealer to see why it feels like the brake is on when i try to drive first thing in the morning. They say it is the knock sensor. But want way too much $$ to replace it. Could this be the reason? It drives fine otherwise. Thanks for any suggestions.
 
#4 ·
The knock sensor is basically for emergencies. If it senses knocking and pinging it will send a signal to the ECM to retard the timing to try and eliminate the knocking. According to the factory manual, it doesn't even operate under normal conditions, because knocking isn't normal. Most people ignore it when it fails because it won't set off the check engine light (it will just record a trouble code) and it's hard to get to. The supercharged X drivers suffer a bit more from a failed sensor because they often run cheaper gas, which can cause the engine to knock. They rely on it to control that.

The same things that can cause knocking will cause poor performance. "Bad" or low octane gasoline, hot spots on pistons from carbon build up, improper spark plugs, and improper timing are a few things off the top of my head.

How many miles on your X? Do you have the V6 engine? If so, when's the last time the timing belt was changed? How about the distributor?
 
#5 ·
It has 145k. I recently bought it from an individual. He told me he replaced the timing belt and water pump. Not sure if he did for sure, since he told me that he replaced other things, and come to find out that they didn't get done. Not sure on distributer.
 
#7 ·
Yeah I'm just trying to throw out ideas on why your X might be performing below par. The distributor wearing out is a known issue on these trucks, so even if you replace the cap, rotor, wires and plugs it may still run like crap. The timing belt is kind of important. It's due replacement at 105,000 miles. Some last longer, some don't. If it fails your engine won't run at all, and it may damage it. Sometimes they slip a little as the teeth wear, and it could cause performance issues (assuming it hasn't slipped enough for it to quit running). What codes are you getting?

....and at the risk of asking a completely stupid sounding question: Is your parking brake sticking? :D
 
#8 · (Edited)
How about the fuel pump issue? If you are in a state that does the recall get the pump thing done. Look it up and call the dealership with your Vin to find out if it's been done.


The blinking CEL means there is a definite problem. It doesn't necessarily mean there is a BIG issue it just means that there is DEFINITELY an issue.

Take the dist. cap off and take a look at the contacts. Is there buildup/uneven wear? The thing that spins around in the middle... take a look at the end where there should be shiny metal in a line across... is it shiny or black.

You also need to take a look at the plugs. So, if the wires/dist cap and parts/plugs/fuel filter have not been done go get this done. This will cost about 105.. then plus plugs Get NGK's. It's all stuff you can do in your garage and quite quickly. (for the fuel filter do a search on youtube for a procedure... there is no way to take the pressure out of the fuel line besides pulling the fuse for the pump and turning the engine over a couple times).

After doing these things you can narrow down the problem extensively.

You will see through a bit of searching that the CEL + blinking CEL can be a bad distributor and could be something you need to rebuild or buy (replacing it is something my grandma could do.. so no mechanic needed here.)

So go get your codes read then come back and let us know.

edit: also, if you have not seafoamed the car do that. Then get another injector cleaner and put it in the gas to try to clean the injectors.
 
#9 ·
Yeah I'm just trying to throw out ideas on why your X might be performing below par. The distributor wearing out is a known issue on these trucks, so even if you replace the cap, rotor, wires and plugs it may still run like crap. The timing belt is kind of important. It's due replacement at 105,000 miles. Some last longer, some don't. If it fails your engine won't run at all, and it may damage it. Sometimes they slip a little as the teeth wear, and it could cause performance issues (assuming it hasn't slipped enough for it to quit running). What codes are you getting?

....and at the risk of asking a completely stupid sounding question: Is your parking brake sticking? :D
Easiest way I've found to figure this out is a laser temp probe on the brakes after driving around. They should all be in the same temp. ballpark.
 
#10 ·
Do not ever go back there. Lazy/Bad diagnosis.

Almost all Nissans have a KS code, and, except for the SC, its something you can ignore for the most part.

Knocking is a symptom of a problem, not the problem per se. Its from the timing being too advanced, whether its from faster burning fuel, the engine's timing, etc.

BTW - Did YOU change the spark plugs and wires, or did a shop?

If YOU didn't do it, there's a good chance the #6 plug was skipped, as its a PITA to reach, and many mechanics simply assume no one will notice one plug way back between the engine and firewall...and it will be gotten by the next guy, etc...

....except that's what the next guy says...so, I see #6 plugs that were installed by Nissan when the rig was made, still there after 200k miles, etc. (So you can be like an Audi, etc, running on 5 cylinders)

Morning sluggishness could be the lubes...some lubes are too viscous when cold, and need time to warm up and flow better/not be so stiff. (Swapping in all synthetic lubes for the engine oil diffs, tranny, etc, tends to cure all that great)

The FLASHING dash light means something else though. As the guy you bought it from lied about things he said he replaced....and, the t-belt would be the most expensive of those to actually do...its the one he's MOST likely to lie about.

If a tooth slips, if the belt breaks, etc...it can do damage...even total the truck by taking out the engine, etc.
 
#11 ·
Is there any way to check to see if timing belt and water pump have been replaced without tearing it all apart? Also ABS light is on. Don't know if that would effect it in the am. If it sets till afternoon it doesn't act up at all. Sometimes it doesn't want to shift into overdrive going downhill doing 55 it tacks 3500 rpms. So I pull over and turn off car. Restart and it shifts fine. Gas done this 3 times in two months as a dailey driver.
 
#14 ·
Have done the sea foam once. No I didn't do plugs myself. I'll check into that. Belt squeals when started in afternoon only. Don't know if that is relevant.
Only in that things expand when warmer.

Squeal when warmer can mean the belt stretched more and was looser.
 
#15 ·
Morning sluggishness could be the lubes...some lubes are too viscous when cold, and need time to warm up and flow better/not be so stiff. (Swapping in all synthetic lubes for the engine oil diffs, tranny, etc, tends to cure all that great)
I am having the same issue. No CEL for me though. I do have a SET light, but that was caused by me and is non issue related. New plugs, wires, cap, rotor, seafoamed, etc. Morning in the cold it feels like I am driving with brakes on. I havent yet swapped fluids (less oil) since I got it and really need to. Ill report back after all done but I have the feeling that it will definitely help the issue once the diff/tcase/tranny all have fresh synthetic in them.
 
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