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Bilstien shocks?

9K views 24 replies 10 participants last post by  NoWhining 
#1 ·
4600 and 5100
What's the difference?
One better than the other?
 
#2 ·
From Bilstein USA

4600 Series - Light Truck/SUV

BILSTEIN 4600 Series
Performance You Can Feel

BILSTEIN 4600 Series Shock Absorbers and Struts are designed specifically to help your stock height truck, van or SUV reach its pinnacle in ride performance and handling, while still providing the comfortable ride that has come to be expected from the name BILSTEIN.

Features and Benefits:

Monotube gas pressure technology
Easy to install; direct bolt-on; no modification required
Improved control and stability, precise handling, ultimate performance, and incredible comfort
BILSTEIN’s unique piston design offers greater sensitivity and superior vehicle control
Lifetime Warranty

5100 Series - Lifted Light Truck/SUV

BILSTEIN 5100 Series
Lifted Performance

BILSTEIN 5100 Series Shock Absorbers are designed specifically to help your lifted truck, Jeep or SUV reach its pinnacle in ride performance, while supplying the correct tuning and length for your specific lift.

Features and Benefits:

Individually engineered for a wide array of specific vehicles and lift combinations
Monotube gas pressure technology
Easy to install; direct bolt-on; no modification required
Multi-layer zinc finish is the most durable in the industry
5100 Series provides the most comprehensive range of vehicle applications
Lifetime Warranty

I used to have the detailed breakdown on the 4600's but lost it in a hard drive melt down. More detailed info on the 5100 can be found here on page 5.
 
#3 ·
4600 are STOCK/OEM replacement shocks.

5100 are meant for aftermarket applications, such as lifted rigs, etc.


So, when looking them up, the 4600 will be listed by what STOCK rig they fit/replace the OEM shocks on.

The 5100 will list modified applications.


What aftermarket companies (AC, etc) do is FIND a stock shock meant for a larger truck, and see if its specs are good for a smaller modified truck....and then use the (Less expensive) stock shock from the larger truck in a lift kit for a smaller truck.

:D
 
#4 ·
OK anybody know the Bilstien part# for the 5100"s for a 1st gen?
 
#6 ·
AC is currently backordered until October on the 5100 fronts. I chose the 4600 (HD) fronts instead and maintained the longer travel 5100's in the back. The colors won't match, but I think the fronts will perform essentially the same. We will see as soon as they get here.
 
#7 ·
I have the older number for the articulator shocks. Pick of the part numbers, fronts on the left rears on the right.


according to the billstein website those articulator shocks for the rear are normally for an 05 ranger with a 0-1" lift. interesting. as for the fronts, that model number included in the "articulator" package is the HD 4600 series, not a 5100/5125 series.


does anyone have teh ACTUAL part number from billstein for the 5100 series FRONT shock and NOT just the 4x4parts.com link?
 
#9 ·
according to the billstein website those articulator shocks for the rear are normally for an 05 ranger with a 0-1" lift. interesting. as for the fronts, that model number included in the "articulator" package is the HD 4600 series, not a 5100/5125 series.


does anyone have teh ACTUAL part number from billstein for the 5100 series FRONT shock and NOT just the 4x4parts.com link?
There is no 5100 for the front, its always used the HD, which is now the 4600. (Despite the way the ad is worded)
 
#10 ·
Hi guys, pls what is the best off-roading shock or strut for a 2004 Nissan Xterra?
Read the above thread you posted in. (Order the articulator kit from 4x4parts.com, or at least just the shocks for it)

For reference, the 2000 - 2004 all use the same shocks.

:D
 
#13 ·
4x4 parts has the 5100s for the front. Just look in their suspension components. I have had them on my Xterra for 2 years now.
Yeah, they list them, but send the HD's.

:D
 
#15 · (Edited)
That is odd since I ordered all 4 of my 5100s from 4x4 parts.
Yeah, they ship the HD when you order the 4 Bil 5100. (The rears tend to be actual 5100's, its just the fronts that come as HD/4600)

You'd have to look at the part # on the shock itself to see...and, they work the same/have the same specs...so they are interchangeable in this application, and, its mostly a technicality as to which shock is under there, as opposed to a real concern.


That said, AC swaps parts for each other all the time, and, we don't all get the exact same stuff (So I would never bet NO ONE got a particular combo, of anything). Same with shackles...so far, they have been several different lengths, and its a crap shoot as to the exact spec you'll get.

:D
 
#16 ·
I got my 5100's from 4x4parts, all 4.
 
#17 ·
#20 ·
#23 ·
I got mine from eshocks.com (less expensive at the time).

24-187824 and 24-184908 are the part numbers they currently list.

I recommend going with the lifted shocks even if you haven't lifted yet. They will fit (remove rear sway bar if you haven't already).

At one point, I did a write up on the tools, torque settings etc. in replacing the shocks.
Was a relatively easy job.
 
#25 ·
Found my write up on replacing the shocks.....

To re-iterate the torque settings, the torque specs for the shocks:
Front Shock Top: 12 - 16 ft-lbs
Front Shock Bottom: 87 - 108 ft-lbs
Rear Shock Top: 30 - 37 ft-lbs
Rear Shock Bottom: 30 - 37 ft-lbs

Tools required:
Standard screw driver, anti-seize/WD40/oil, 14mm and 17mm wrenches, 14mm, 17 mm, 18mm and 21mm deep sockets, 7mm allen wrench, torque wrench, breaker bar,

Started by replacing rear shocks and removing the Rear Sway Bar. Sway Bar took about 20 min. to come out, most of that time just getting the spare tire down. Hard to see the fitting to lower the spare. No salt on the roads where I live and ski, so bolts/nuts are pretty clean. 14mm socket along with a breaker bar (I used 3/8 inch drive) and open ended wrench are the only tools I needed.

I borrowed the 18mm socket needed from a neighbor, but it was a little too shallow. Not wanting to torque the fitting if it wasn't biting well, I bought a deep socket 18mm. Rear shocks took about 1.5 hours. I did the right side first and hard part was getting it to compress and slide back on. A little bit of oil helped it go on fairly easily in the end and the left side went right on with the same treatment. Only other problem was the top fitting on the left rear shock is too close to my muffler to get the deep socket and my torque wrench in there.

Front shocks took a little under a couple hours. Hardest part was compressing the shock to get it the bottom fitting lined up. I found it best to compress it until you can bring it in from behind the fitting. I could then use a screw driver to adjust the bottom of the shock against the lower A-arm and line up the shock bolt. The top of the Bilstein shock has a 7mm allen socket that can be used to adjust the top fitting, but due to the difficulty in getting a torque wrench on top of that assembly, I tightened until the new bushings were slightly compressed. This should be in the 12-16 ft-lb range as that's not much force. You'll also need a 17mm wrench for the top shock nut. Interesting, the old shocks used a 14mm nut which indicates the increased size of the new shock.

I torqued my bottom bolts to 96 ft-lbs (about as between 87 and 108 as any). I also used a 21 mm socket for the lug nuts and torqued those to 80 ft-lbs as recommended.

No whining now...
 
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