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Knock sensor: relocate or resistor mod?

33K views 15 replies 12 participants last post by  SC_Xterra_SE 
#1 ·
I just purchased an '01 SE V6 4wd for my wife, and it triggered a knock sensor code along with a rear O2 sensor code on the drive home. This engine is NA, so I am less worried about the ecu pulling timing, etc; and I do not plan to tow with this vehicle.

After much searching, I've found the KS relocation mod typically for the S/C engines; and I have also found mention of the resistor mod. I recognize that the KS code may have been sitting stored and the O2 fault triggered the CEL, but I can not have a logged code sitting stored - emissions do a OBD2 scan every other year, so a stored code will fail emissions.

The resistor mod seems pretty easy, but I have not found a post where the person has completed it successfully - it is mentioned many times as something to do. I've seen mention a 1 mega ohm resistor and also a ~500 ohm resistor.

I understand access can be a PITA, but I'm planning on doing the water pump/timing belt and potentially the VC gaskets all at one time. So I'll have a reason to be under there either way.

Vehicle has ~111,xxx miles on it. Any links to successful use of the resistor since I has hoping to save the cost of buying a knock sensor. :)

Thanks,

Josh
 
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#2 ·
timing belt will not get you to the knock sensor.

the resistor is 560kohm or 560,000 ohm

doing it got me back 2mpg so yeah its important if the engine is retarding even on a na.

the risk is you have no knock sensor so if your engine does start knocking for whatever reason you only got your ears and feel to pick it up.

But i have had the resistor mod for a year and so far so good. I do want to play with the timing now for ethanol so i am going to relocate it just for some added insurance.
 
#3 ·
resitor, did it years ago. it takes about 15 min total and is a lot quicker, easier, cheaper and generally much more gooder that relocating the sensor.
 
#4 ·
I've been running the resistor mod for a couple months now and couldn't be happier with the improved performance. I have the S/C version though. As you know, it's debatable whether it necessary for the NA motors, like yours.

Here is a thread I used to help identify the connector and wires to connect the the 560k resistor.
http://tunfs.yuku.com/topic/363/t/Knock-Sensor-Relocate-2002-Fronty-ODB2-code-P0328-or-PO327.html

It's primarily dealing with the relocation mod but everything you need for the resistor mod can be found in it.

Good luck!
 
#5 ·
doing this relocation when my stuff comes in, after my knock sensor code being present for over 4 years, lol
hoping to see a little improvement in performance

got the knock sensor off ebay for $17
 
#6 ·
I like that link. After my post, I stumbled onto a couple knock sensors on eBay. I might actually buy a good one, and then just relocate it for the slight piece of mind. ;)

Agreed that TB won't give me access to the KS, but doing the VC gaskets will. I would rather tear into this thing and get a ton of stuff replaced at once then piece meal it.

Thanks all for the thoughts.

Josh
 
#7 ·
hell, im not even gonna pull my old one, im just gonna leave it where it is
 
#8 ·
I can't claim to know, but some feel those ultra cheap knock sensors found on ebay are essentially a piece of plastic with a 50 cent 560k resistor inside. As such, they won't function any different than the resitor mod would. However, I found some genuine Nissan ones on Ebay for $48 recently.
 
#9 ·
I can't claim to know, but some feel those ultra cheap knock sensors found on ebay are essentially a piece of plastic with a 50 cent 560k resistor inside. As such, they won't function any different than the resitor mod would. However, I found some genuine Nissan ones on Ebay for $48 recently.
I read the comment about the resistor in the package, and I only planned on purchasing one in OEM plastic. I'd rather pay a little extra for what should be a known good part.

I was doing a little more research, and JWT ignores the knock sensor on some of their ecu programs. You can get a code, but the timing maps are exactly the same (so you do not get a decrease in performance....which doesn't help my situation but it is interesting).

Josh
 
#10 ·
Knock Sensor relocate Easy job.

After dealing with low end engine vibration and stalling I replaced distributor and all tune up items which only helped the problem a little. Two days ago the problem got to the point of stalling out at all speeds/rpm

If I had found this article which made the knock sensor relocate SO EASY! I would have done it months ago.
:clever::clever:
http://tunfs.yuku.com/topic/363/t/K...ty-ODB2-code-P0328-or-PO327.html#.UaOu4WTaAl5

New knock sensor placed in easy to reach spot, now I have smooth idle, smooth acceleration, more power and no more stalling.

Kudos to the author of this step by step guide along with photos for making what would be a big, long expensive job quick and easy.
 
#11 ·
Simple repair! Some people say get a maxima harness splice in.... Etc. too much work. First reach behind intake (very tight) but you can bend a screwdriver for assistance, break off tip of existing k/s... It's broken already and it's difficult to unplug. Once broken off reroute your existing harness to top of intake and remove the remainder of sensor from the connector. Plug in new sensor and mount! No cutting splicing or soldering required ;)
 
#12 ·
Simple repair! Some people say get a maxima harness splice in.... Etc. too much work. First reach behind intake (very tight) but you can bend a screwdriver for assistance, break off tip of existing k/s... It's broken already and it's difficult to unplug. Once broken off reroute your existing harness to top of intake and remove the remainder of sensor from the connector. Plug in new sensor and mount! No cutting splicing or soldering required ;)
I like the way you think.
 
#14 ·
Simple repair! Some people say get a maxima harness splice in.... Etc. too much work. First reach behind intake (very tight) but you can bend a screwdriver for assistance, break off tip of existing k/s... It's broken already and it's difficult to unplug. Once broken off reroute your existing harness to top of intake and remove the remainder of sensor from the connector. Plug in new sensor and mount! No cutting splicing or soldering required ;)
Would love to see some pictures also!
 
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