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Time to replace driver's side valve cover gasket...

15K views 18 replies 5 participants last post by  JLBinHSV 
#1 · (Edited)
(2001 3.3l btw) I've read through most of the posts on the subject here and watched most of the YouTube videos.

Is it the consensus here that the easiest approach is to leave the two control valve electrical plugs and the two coolant lines located at the rear of the intake manifold collector connected, and just 'hang' the collector high enough to remove the valve cover?

I'd rather not spend an entire day for a valve cover gasket replacement.

Any other short cuts I might have missed?

Thanks!
 
#2 ·
I recommend just pulling it all. Do both sides. Do your plugs while you are at it and if you haven't already, replace and relocate your knock sensor. Chances are it is bad you just don't know it.

If you don't own a scanner, get one. The $16 model on amazon works great.
 
#3 ·
I recommend just pulling it all. Do both sides. Do your plugs while you are at it and if you haven't already, replace and relocate your knock sensor. Chances are it is bad you just don't know it.

If you don't own a scanner, get one. The $16 model on amazon works great.
Thanks for the reply. Changed the passenger side valve cover gasket and spark plugs 10k miles ago. Have a scanner. No issue (yet!) with knock sensor. All that said, I'm looking to leave as many things connected as I possibly can and still get to that drivers side valve cover gasket. Any thoughts along that line?
 
#4 ·
Boy, drivers side will be tough with the EGR and all that. Wish I had some advice... I took mine all apart.
 
#5 · (Edited)
I recommend just pulling it all.

When I did mine I left as much of it connected as I could and just fought it. Down the road I had to pull it off completely and I was mad at myself for not having done that the first time.

I cut the hoses to get it off. Then I replaced them with MUCH longer ones that I just looped around in the back. (not so long that I don't have to unhook them, but long enough that I can move the upper intake enough to access the connections.) That has made working on it so much easier now, whether I'm just loosening the upper intake and taking it completely off. I've done it so many times now that I think little of it. But I could probably take it off and put it back on twice, in less time than I wasted the first time trying yo leave it hooked up.
:D
 
#6 ·
I'll give disconnecting those two rear connectors and hoses a shot (maybe even cut/replace the hoses as you suggest), but I'd really prefer not to touch them if they're going to be difficult.

How high were you able to raise the plenum with the rear hoses/connectors still connected? High enough to get the valve cover out and back in without a lot of extra difficulty?

I'm going to be doing this in an apartment parking lot and the Xterra is my sole means of transportation, so I really don't want to run into any unforeseen complications.

PS: Started soaking all the fasteners with PB Blaster yesterday. Hit them again today, and will do so again on Monday. Gonna replace the gaskets Tuesday morning weather permitting.
 
#7 ·
Well...disconnected just enough things to get the plenum raised, but I can't see any way to get those back valve cover screws out without taking the plenum completely loose. Fooled around with the two rear hoses and connectors, but can't see them well enough to even attempt to disconnect. Decided to punt and put everything back together. On the plus side, the entire operation only wasted an hour. PB Blaster is good stuff.
 
#8 ·
Just for giggles, I went to three different shops on Tuesday for an estimate. The range was from $370 to $420 for 3.5 hours labor (~$35 parts) (apparently every shop uses same estimating software).

I asked one of the guys at one of the shops if my cost would be reduced if the actual labor time came in at less than 3.5 hours. He said "No, any decent tech will charge more than 8 billable hours in an 8 hour shift." So, not only do mechanic shops charge $90 - $120 per hour labor rates, they also inflate the number of actual hours worked. He said the shops take a risk that a repair will take longer than they estimate, but I'm guessing that rarely happens.

My advice to young folks who have an interest in mechanical stuff is to skip college and the associated student debt. Learn how to crank a wrench and you'll never go hungry. If you're motivated, you'll probably earn a very, very, very good income.

All that said, there is no way on the Earth that i'll pay somebody $100/hr to change a valve cover gasket. I don't care how many hoses I have to cut. Next warm day I'll give it another shot. I might even film it for YouTube since there aren't any really comprehensive videos out there for the 2001.
 
#9 · (Edited)
Well...I dug back into it today and got the gasket replaced. Took me 3 hours, which includes the hour I spent trying to get the two rear coolant hoses off. Managed to get both upper clamps off, but couldn't get rubber hose off of metal tube. So, I left them connected (left the two electrical connectors connected as well) and just worked with the space available. Fortunately the back valve cover screws weren't torqued down super tight.

Got everything back together, and now she idles rough. Kind of a whomp whomp whomp sound. Drives fine however. I must have created a vacuum leak somewhere or maybe damaged a connector or mass air flow sensor or something. Not in the mood to mess with it any more today.

PS: I drove about 10 miles after putting it back together. No CEL yet, but I haven't plugged the scanner up yet to see if it's throwing any codes.
 
#10 ·
Sure enough, I left a vacuum hose disconnected. Fortunately, it was an easy one to reconnect. Problem solved.

Funny how I, a virtual novice, replaced this gasket in less than 3 hours (2 hours if you subtract the hour wasted monkeying around with those two rear coolant hoses!), yet the pros, with a shop environment and all the right tools, bill the job at 3.5 hours.
 
#12 ·
Hey, I am about to do the Drivers side valve cover gasket, and was wondering if you were able to get at the plugs when you left the rear hoses on? In your opinion, do you think it would be worth it to take the whole plenum off?
By 'plugs' I'm assuming you mean the two electrical connectors that connect to the underside of the plenum. I tried the hoses first, and when I failed at that, I didn't even attempt the connectors. There wasn't a lot of room to get at the rear uppermost valve cover fastener, but fortunately it wasn't very tight, and I loosened and re-tightened with a short screwdriver. A phillips bit w/ extensions and u-joints might work too.

My big fear with leaving the plenum attached was that I was going to pull something lose or break something. Fortunately, that did not happen.

As for whether it would be 'worth it' to remove the plenum, well...it would certainly make it easier to get to the valve cover screws. IMO, and in retrospect, it's not worth spending hours trying to disconnect the hoses and connectors however. Plus you risk damaging a connector/wiring when you're attempting to disconnect.
 
#13 ·
Actually, I was referring to Spark Plugs. I've heard that #6 is really troublesome to get at and I was wondering if it was easier to access with your method? I'm doing a fair bit of an overhaul and have the time to spend as the truck is not currently on the road, but (as you say) the less connectors and hoses I have to mess with the better off I'll be.
 
#14 ·
Actually, I was referring to Spark Plugs. I've heard that [URL=http://www.clubxterra.org/forums/usertag.php?do=list&action=hash&hash=6]#6 [/URL] is really troublesome to get at and I was wondering if it was easier to access with your method? I'm doing a fair bit of an overhaul and have the time to spend as the truck is not currently on the road, but (as you say) the less connectors and hoses I have to mess with the better off I'll be.
#2 and #4 are easy to change with the plenum completely bolted down, and you're never going to get to #6 with the plenum raised and the hoses/connectors still attached. #6 really isn't that difficult to change with the plenum on anyway. You just need the proper combo of extensions and u-joints (and a mirror is helpful).
 
#18 ·
Intake Manifold Hoses

Hey guys,
In the process of removing the intake manifold to change my valve cover gasket I had to cut many of the hoses. Even though I was able to get the clamps loose, those hoses would not budge. Basically I am looking for a guide on how to find all these hoses. Local auto parts store is very vague on their selection of hoses available for the Xterra. All small vacuum lines are good, its the coolant ones I believe that run through the manifold and what I believe are larger vacuum hoses maybe?
Thanks in advance.
 
#19 ·
You might have some luck at the nissan part specific sites, but you'll pay dearly. IF they have anything in stock. As far as the two rear coolant hoses go, I've heard of people just using generic cooling system rated hose with the proper inner diameter and wall thickness cut to the desired length as a replacement. Here's a chart with Nissan part numbers (for 00/01)
 

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