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2000 xterra heating up issue.

4K views 45 replies 6 participants last post by  Diego0123005 
#1 ·
I have a 2000 xterra and it seems to only blow warm air. It takes a long time to heat up and never gets hot. I recently did a ton of work to it the thermostat is replaced. with a 170f/77c thermostat. The AC system is deleted and the AC relay is removed. not sure if this affects anything at all. Any help is appreciated.
 
#6 ·
I do it when its heated up with the rad cap off. Not sure if it should be on or off but when i was over heating alot i found when i left the cap open all the fluid that was sitting right below the cap sucked in when i cracked the screw open and took another half galon of antifreeze. I probably had a very bad case of not bleeding it i dont know.
 
#7 ·
Also i mean just hot enough to be warm. Not after running it for an hour. If you open it when its hot your gonna get burned by antifreeze squirting out of the cap. Dont be that guy... I suggest you pull the cap off when cold let it run for a few minutes than bleed it. So you dont have antifreeze go all over you.
 
#9 ·
Also i mean just hot enough to be warm. Not after running it for an hour. If you open it when its hot your gonna get burned by antifreeze squirting out of the cap. Dont be that guy... I suggest you pull the cap off when cold let it run for a few minutes than bleed it. So you dont have antifreeze go all over you.

thanks. Cap off plus bleeder seems like a good way to push all the air out. maybe I will try that.
 
#10 ·
I tested for leaks and bled the system there are no leaks. I noticed theres not much pressure in the upper rad hose but it gets warm and coolant is flowing. I believe I may have figured out my issue. When I installed the new thermostat it did not come with a rubber O ring and the one I removed didn't have the O-ring as well. Was I suppose to install a Oring with the new thermostat?
 
#12 ·
Yes and there is 1/4 inch that needs to be a 12 oclock
No o-ring on my 2000, doesn't call for one.

Or a bad thermostat. If I was going to pull the new thermostat back out, I would boil it in water with a thermometer to test it, or just buy another one and not worry about whether it was a bad unit out the box.
The thermostat sounds like it is stuck open or defective
 
#15 ·
When i put mine in i used permatex gasket maker around it to seal it/ hold the pesky damn thing in place. mine takes a bit to heat up but not long. I usually let mine hold 2nd gear (auto) until around 35ish when its cold as there is no torque converter lockup until the motor is at normal temp. But you either have air in the system or a problem somewhere else. I ran mine with 8 holes in the thermostat and still did fine and didnt take too long to heat up.
 
#16 ·
That's what im thinking. So there is not suppose to be a seal or o'ring at all? Now im confused. I cant find any info on this. Dont most thermostats have a seal similar to the one in the picture?
No o-ring on the X thermostat. The recommend just using rtv sealant only. I bought the gasket and lightly coated each side with rtv.
After doing my timing belt, the housing refused to seal using rtv only.
 
#17 ·
When i put mine in i used permatex gasket maker around it to seal it/ hold the pesky damn thing in place. mine takes a bit to heat up but not long. I usually let mine hold 2nd gear (auto) until around 35ish when its cold as there is no torque converter lockup until the motor is at normal temp. But you either have air in the system or a problem somewhere else. I ran mine with 8 holes in the thermostat and still did fine and didnt take too long to heat up.
Best thing about electric fans, engine gets up to running temp extremely quick. Great thing on cold days. And no roaring clutch fan when you first drive off.
 
#18 ·
I replaced the thermostat today with a factory nissan thermostat with the hole at 12 oclock . I added the new fluid with the bleeder screw removed until it poured out, installed the bleeder screw again ran the engine with out the rad cap until it reached operating temperature, let it cool and repeated. That didnt seem to help a whole lot so i ran the engine with out the bleeder screw for quite sometime to try and push all the air out. It seems to get warm but still not as hot as it should be. I am running out of ideas. I guess the next step would be loosen the threads on the bleeder screw and hook up a pressure tester and see if that forces any air out? any other help or ideas is appreciated :)
 
#22 ·
I replaced the thermostat today with a factory nissan thermostat with the hole at 12 oclock . I added the new fluid with the bleeder screw removed until it poured out, installed the bleeder screw again ran the engine with out the rad cap until it reached operating temperature, let it cool and repeated. That didnt seem to help a whole lot so i ran the engine with out the bleeder screw for quite sometime to try and push all the air out. It seems to get warm but still not as hot as it should be. I am running out of ideas. I guess the next step would be loosen the threads on the bleeder screw and hook up a pressure tester and see if that forces any air out? any other help or ideas is appreciated
Assuming the coolant temperature returning to your radiator is hot (easy to check, just feel hose), then your problem clearly lies elsewhere. Somebody posted here earlier today about a blend door issue. Could be your problem too. Another possibility is that the AC is running simultaneously. Another is that there is a blockage preventing coolant flow thru the heater core (feel intake and exit hoses...are they both hot?). That's all I've got.
 
#23 ·
What do you mean " blend door issue" I deleted the AC, and removed the AC relay could that be causing some sort of issue? The upper rad hose gets warm almost " hot" it doesn't quit burn my hand though. The lower house seems to stay cool and the rad cap stays cool. When I run the engine with the cap off steam does come out of the rad though.

The water pump is brand new, the thermostat is brand new, coolant is new, and rad is flushed.
 
#26 ·
There is no AC compressor or AC compenents in my xterra. Maybe removing the AC relay affected the blend door actuator and causing bad heat ( if thats even a thing)? That link just takes me to the home page.
If no compressor then it's definitely not the AC :) Whatever you did may very well impact the impact the blend door actuator. Odd about the link, it works for me. In any event, the thread was just started today. "Problem with climate control" or something similar is the heading.
 
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